mixmkr

Thx Biker... Yeah...I have the portable mini walker...but actually never use it (see my signature). I do have a wholesale account with Sailrite, so I can get a little off those prices. That said...sewing on the docks isn't enough space and only invites conversation with what I am doing and hard to get work done. But more so, the Sailrite stuff is too light duty for what I need. Yeah...the price is a little steep...but I search A LOT for a machine...looking especially for a larger bobbin than my current Juki and a higher presser foot lift. I figure 20 years isn't that old for a decent machine either. My zig zag Singer is probably 75 years old and works great...as my 1970's (?) Juki LU562 does too. Both great machines and I'd expect another 50 years out of both. I'm hesitant ONLY because of the name, as parts are for the most part still available and interchangeable with similar machines.

Long time absent, but busy sewing! I have a line on a Seiko LSWN-8BL...with a new hook, feed dogs, etc. The owner apparently refurbishes older machines for resale. This comes with a servo, small pulley on the motor and table with knee lift. At $950, and considering it runs and sews great...any opinions? Really could use this particular style machine especially with the U size bobbin and long stitch length. Realizing Seiko built the earlier Consews in Japan...but the name doesn't seem to have nearly the resale of a Juki or Consew. Not looking to buy/sell myself, as I will keep it as long as I intend to keep sewing marine canvas. But would entertain any thoughts. Lastly...it appears this is probably the older version of this machine as the current seems to be the Seiko LSWN-8BL-3 (perhaps following the "1" and "2'")?

That's what I was hoping to hear. I think Toledo Bob sells them, if not mistaken. I don't see them on the website and I should give them a call. Thank Pinto.

My Juki LU562 runs great with the servo. Sewing thicker layers of marine canvas, sometimes require a "running start" with this motor and wondering if a speed reducer, with the servo running at a faster speed will give me more initial punch at slow speeds, without a helping hand or "running start". Sewing around corners with clear vinyl...no need to go astray!

Well....great video and totally convinced me I won't by trying this myself...ha..... dang... I can see taking my machine in a box to a repair place to reassemble. ….for the cost of a new machine.

I was under the impression that the change over to the larger bobbin was too much effort and basically best to just find a LU563. Not speaking from experience....just reading previously on this forum, but some machining is needed, etc, etc...

I have a 562 which is the main machine for my marine canvas business. I use 138 thread...so the bobbins go quick. Always have an eye out for the 563 at a decent price.

Ive watched ads and looked now for over a year and the best I ever saw was a LU563 in the $900 range. I have a 562 but would like another with the larger bobbin.

Actually like Sarc's. This does seem printed directly on the table trim. Hence my surprise. It isnt peeling off even with a razor...except the most embossed printing areas Btw. Will now need to check MY green Singer table too!

Thats interesting. Needless to say I'm gluing a flat metal ruler at this point

Yes.. A clear "sticker". I rarely use this ruler. But it was already on my table when i got my Juki LU 562. When I do use it...it was usually small amounts to double check....like under 10 inches. But I held up a 22" piece and it was clearly off by about 3/4 inch. Fortunately ny cut piece was correct as this "sticker" ruler was what was wrong. Its a nicely made "sticker" as the writing and increments are "raised"... Like you might see on a nice bisiness card etc

So...some of my measuring has been slightly off. Couldnt figure out why. Then by chance I put a yardstick against the laminated ruler on the side of my machine table...which looked original and well worn. The table ruler showed 36".... But actually was 37" !! I measured with several different rulers. The table edge laminated ruler slowly got off.... Until it was a full inch off after 36 inches. I was totally shocked. Besides a initial poor (streached) installation, any idea why this table ruler is too long? Allow for seam pucker?? I cant imagine intentionally altering the measuring guide. Anyone else ever seen this? Ill also say this table has a vendor sticker on it too...but that doesnt really mean anything. The "clear", laminated ruler had to been installed afterwards and poorly.

I have some that small, but they're too long. Eyeglass screws are the same, but too long as well. Not sure I could file them without mucking up the threads. The lever bar has slightly larger screws than the tension spring screws, I notice.

Yes still need them. Will call Monday if you're open...or Tuesday after the sun comes back out!! 'Thanks.

Noticed my bobbin case tension spring is missing one of the two screws on my small bobbin Juki LU 562. Any ideas for these. Id take some extras for the bobbin case opening lever bar(?)...the semi circular flat bar that holds the bobbin case in. (two screws... I think the larger LU563 bobbin case needs 3).

The lowest needle guide us new. Like i said this happened when i went from 138 to 92 thread weight I messed with the spring some more..stopping point... Its much better now but not 100% cured. If i sew 3 ft (marine canvas) I'll usually reposition my material and 5% of the time it has popped out of the guide. But i dont know until I stop the machine...and my stitches are still ok. Just unsettling.

My thread keeps jumping out of my last two thread guides when sewing. The one right above the needle and the next further up. I can see the slack that occurs and sometimes it is configured that the slack "loop" finds its' way out of the guide. Typically the one above the needle doesn't seem to affect the quality of the stitch.... always... but still. Is there a way to lessen the amount of slack between each stitch? The take up spring on the tension assembly doesn't seem to cure things as I increase its' tension. Probably adjusting the wrong thing. Lastly, I typically have been using 138 equivalent PTFE threads....and with it being stiffer never really had this issue. I've decided to go with a lighter weight (92 equiv), to save on bobbin changes and the thread is expensive at about $200lb spool. It's with this weight that this problem started occurring. Also, the machine is sewing great....no issues other than this when switching to a more flexible thread. Ideas?

I'd personally keep the JUKI first and the Consew set up for backup...or settings you normally wouldn't use on the 1541, although you could still do..... Dedicated binder etc.

Ha. Crack myself up. Still looking obviously but not wanting to spend $4k. Good memory Uwe!!

There's a High tech version...9266 I think. Would those be available in the US? It does straight stitch too I think. That might be ideal.

title says it. I have a Singer 107W1 which is OK...but would like something with a little more....oomph. Foot lift, arm space, wider stitches....

Way to go on the rescue pups! !

watch at the 2:20 mark where the thickness varies, in this Sailrite demo vid. The stitch length is not noticeably changed.

Additionally although very slight, the reduction in length due to the "pendulum' effect would increase with larger stitch settings, versus shorter stitch lengths, as the material thickness increases.. Probably to the point, the naked eye would have difficulty actually seeing it. As the pendulum movement stays more vertical, the effect diminishes. As I mentioned, in my 562, I've gone from 2-3 layers of canvas and "crawled over" a mondo seam of 10 layeres, and the stitch length wasn't noticeably altered.

thanks Wiz. Doing outside canvas work, I'm not seeing an appreciable drop in stitch quality and I understand the left pull you describe. I'm set at maximum stitch length...about 7-8mm, so I'm not getting all zig zaggy either.