badger

Greg, Thanks, But it wasn't threaded when I took the picture. The thread was just tucked in there. I'm aware of the correct threading procedure. The machine wasn't rigged to sew at this point. I took the picture yesterday. I guess I was too keen to get the pic up Thanks anyway though! Cheers, Karl

Guys, I just finished getting this machine back up and running. It's been completely stripped, cleaned, broken parts replaced and the machine reassembled. I finished adjusting it this morning and it's running beautifully. Turn the flywheel with just a finger and thumb and it sews like a dream. I really like the sound of it shunting and clicking away, it's very comforting. I was going to replace the grey flywheel, but I think it's an original BUSM flywheel but from a later machine (Peter Main kindly sent me a pic of a factory-painted grey machine). It's part of 9386's story, so I'm going to leave it. I just have to add the chain and stirrup for the presser foot lift. I bought the old cast iron stand on Ebay UK for GBP£38.00! I'm delighted to get this machine back on it's feet. I love it This will be my primary sewing machine. Cheers, Karl

Thanks Harry I'll try that. Cheers, Karl

Bloody hell! I turn my back for two minutes and look what you guys did to my thread....... Should've said 'Ass'. No, wait, then there would be Donkey Jokes! Ok, I give up................ Karl

Thanks, You guys are great. Cheers, Karl

Hi, Welcome. You'll like it here, no question is stupid...... Even mine! Cheers, Karl

Randy, I believe the information offered by Mr Gibbs was intended as an exercise in sharing. Although I don't agree personally with the sharpening method used by the person in the videos and wouldn't do that to my knife, I do applaud the spirit in which it was brought to the community. I think some members might be somewhat affronted by your 'Leather tools 101' explanation of what a Head knife is and what it's used for. Although by no means an Old Timer in leatherwork, I flatter myself that I know what most of my tools are for (there's always the odd surprise though ). The sum total of the leatherworking experience on this amazing board runs into the thousands of years. As a self-confessed newcomer, who has never used a Head knife, it might be worth considering how the tone of your comments comes across. If anyone feels I'm out of line here, please feel free to give me a slap Karl

Nice Job. I've handled one of the originals in person, and yours whups it, hands down. Great job. Did you hear the one about Darth Vader at Christmas? Vader: Luke, I know what Santa has brought you. Luke: How, how do you know? Vader: Because, I have felt your presents........ Karl

I'd really appreciate some input from you guys who do a lot of stamping. Can anyone suggest a really good quality maker who produces nice Tri-weave stamping tools? I have one from Tandy, but I really don't like the dull impression it leaves. I'd like something nice and clean and sharp. I'm happy to pay for quality. All help gratefully received Karl

Hey Art, I got a bonus DVD with the set when I bought them a few years ago. It's an in-depth interview with John. Really interesting how he started out and developed his business from nothing. I agree with you 100%, John's a great designer. The DVDs are well worth the money. I built my edge burnishing machine following the directions he gave. I think the biggest problem with a beginner watching someone like John, who's a master with the Head knife, is that he makes it look way too easy Cheers, Karl

Art, I have the Bianchi videos too. I know what you mean about pushing sales, but I think there was a great deal of educational value to be had from them. I really enjoyed them when I was just starting out in leatherwork. Lots of good tricks and tips, but more than that, John worked hard to instill pride and professionalism as well. His whole approach was one of care and precision. I admired his businesslike attitude. The big sponsor was Tandy, as I recall. Cheers, Karl

Hi there, Nice Saddle, and welcome! Karl

Lovely work! Karl

Allen, I top up the disc with a chrome polishing paste too. Here in the UK we can get a good one called 'Autosol'.There's no cushion at all from the double-sided tape, it's the thin film stuff rather than the thick foam stuff. My leather was very flat to start with as I cased it and then hard burnished the surface on my granite slab, using my big stainless steel slicker. Cheers, Karl

Hi Ben, Thanks for pointing that out. I wasn't aware of this being common practise, but this is the only board I'm a member of, so that isn't too surprising. As is often the case with human beings, the need for a solution prompts the same result from several different sources; the collective subconcious...... With regard to your comment on removal of the guards? I agree completely and perhaps should have stressed the safety aspects in my earlier posts. Apologies. I didn't mention it because there weren't really any guards to speak of. There was an extraction shroud for dust removal, but with the table removed, it would be more of a danger where it was, in my humble opinion. The leather disc is glass smooth so there's no abrasion risk. If the shroud was left in place it would be possible to catch a tool or finger between it and the disc surface. The only thing you're going to get by accidentally rubbing against the disc is a shiny bum Cheers, Karl

Vinegaroon black is never truly black until it's oiled. Apart from the issues you know already about, and those pointed out by Madmax22, it looks fine. Cheers, Karl

Cutting tools really are a matter of personal preference. There isn't a 'right' or 'wrong' way, or tool, if you get the result you need to make your work as good as it can be. Bottom line is; if your hands can do what your mind wants, and a certain tool allows that to happen safely...it's the right way (for you). I do 95% of my cutting, even through the thickest leather, with a standard utility knife, the cheap kind, with the blades sharpened and then stropped to a polish. I sold or gave away most of my head knives. The trick is to keep whatever you cut with lethally sharp. I mean the kind of sharp that makes a scalpel look like a wood rasp. John Bianchi says that if you can hear the knife cutting through the leather, it isn't sharp enough. Keep your tools sharp, your hands clear and cut slowly. Just my opinion, mind. Cheers, Karl I agree with Jordan, cutting bits off yourself isn't a good way to lose weight

Thanks guys! Karl

Hi Tim, The disc is grain side out, needs to be smooth. I used double sided tape, it's plenty strong enough. You could use any contact adhesive, I'm sure Barge would work. I would get a scrap piece of leather(grain side to grain side) to protect the stropping surface and hammer the hell out of it with a smooth faced mallet to get it well glued and as flat as possible. I burnished the edge of my leather disc, so there's no chance of catching it on anything. The machine in the picture turns the disc anti-clockwise. You need to make sure the blade you're stropping is on the downward side of the disc (the left on this machine) or it could catch the blade and propel it upward.... at your face. Nasty. You need hardly any pressure if the leather is fed with rouge, just rest the piece gently against the disc. I just top it up by feeding with a small amount of automotive chrome polish paste before I use it. It works really well. I've resurrected seven ancient round punches since yesterday! Cheers, Karl

Great stuff Scott, Welcome! Karl

I like it. It seems to be 'right' for what it is. I like the design balance, the way the shapes work together. Nice job. Cheers, Karl

Does anyone have any spare Craftool oval punches? The small sizes used for punching holes in belts. I have a #5, but I'm after a #3, #4, #6 and #7 (if such sizes exist!) I'll pay a fair price for them. I don't really care how old they are. Cheers, Karl

I had another idea. I wanted something to strop the inside of the blade, inside the groove, on my edgers. I bought a dead cheap little junior hacksaw, removed the blade and replaced it with a piece of string.... tensioned between the blade slots. I rubbed some chrome polish paste into the tightened string and then drew it briskly through the notches of the edgers toward the tip, polishing the inside edge of the blades. They are super sharp now. Mad stropping day, I guess Cheers, Karl

I'm fitting out my new work room and I bought a combination belt/disc sander for sanding edges. Same as in the pic. I hardly used the disc at all on my old one, just the belt. I got to thinking and thought I'd use it to make a super stropping disc. I removed the table and the paper sanding disc, cut a 150mm circle out of 3-4 Ounce veg tan and double side-taped it in place. I gave it a good hammering to be sure it was well stuck and very flat. I then took a piece of red jeweller's rouge and fed the leather with it while the disc was running. The friction generated enough heat to melt the rouge into the leather. I rubbed it nice and flat with a leather scrap while still at full speed. I use a standard utility knife, but with an Irwin 'Blue blade', for almost all my cutting. I gently rested the blade at the appropriate angle to the downward side of the running disc and let it do it's thing. Instant mirror edge! I cut a piece of 5-6 Ounce veg tan to test it. I thought I'd only scored the surface, but I'd gone right through. So, I spent the morning sharpening and stropping all my tools If anyone has an idle disc, this is a great way to make a labour saving strop. Cheers, Karl