badger

Thanks guys, K

Hi Geordie, yep, replied just now. Cheers, Karl

Guys, I'm after reference books on historic, Western gunleather. I've just ordered 'Packing Iron', but wondered if you guys had any suggestions for other good reference material. I'm more interested in historically accurate reference, rather than Hollywood gunleather. Any help greatly appreciated. Cheers, Karl

Hi Trinity, It's good here, the people are really great. Cheers, Karl

Value for money, it's hard to beat an Aztek. I use them all the time. The best thing about them is the airbrush body is sealed. You simply remove the entire nozzle assembly and dump it in solvent to clean it. Paint never enters the airbrush itself. It comes with all the paint cups you'll need, plus a selection of nozzles for different purposes: Fine, standard, hi-flow, spatter, etc. They usually come with an instructional video as well. Great all rounder. Should be ableto pick one up pretty cheap from Ebay. This is the 4709 kit: http://www.hobbiesguinea.com/images/AZK4709.jpg If you're buying a compressor, make sure you get one with a reservoir (air tank or receiver) on it. A regulator/moisture trap is essential as well. Hope this helps, Karl

Really nice. Clean, simple lines. Elegant and beautifully finished. Real art. Congratulations on a beautiful job. Karl

Ray, Sewing machine motors run at around 1420 RPM. Saw some on Ebay. Might do it for you..... K

Thanks guys, Karl

Hello Becca, It's good here. Karl

Apologies if this is in the wrong place, it seemed a logical place to put it.... I want to tidy up my little workshop by storing tools openly on pegboards on the shop wall. Anyone in the UK got any idea where to find pegboard? Seems like I've looked everywhere. Many thanks, Karl

Hi Cruzer, Nice work. Is it my imagination, or is an uncloaked Jawa trying to have your pouch away? It's great here, you'll like it. Cheers, Karl

Hi Alan, I'm new here myself. This is a great place, everyone so generous and helpful. Cheers, Karl

Thanks guys, Good advice. Cheers, Karl

Tasha, I use faux gold leaf a lot, but never on leather. I haven't found one yet which doesn't fade to dull silver eventually when exposed to daylight. Real gold leaf isn't that expensive....considering it's gold. It doesn't hardly weigh anything and is sold by weight. Real gold won't tarnish or fade. Sometimes we use a PVA based adhesive to stick it down. Tandy Leather Weld is basically PVA. I imagine, watered down, it may work. It will dry very quickly though. Another problem with the faux gold leaf is that many products used to top-coat it, will dull it. This wouldn't be a problem with real gold. I guess you could put almost anything on top; Lacquers, Resolene... Cheers, Karl

Thanks very much for the information everyone. Cheers, Karl

I've cast many pieces in white metals (Pewter and the like) as part of my work. These days things are much simpler; RTV silicone moulding rubbers are cheap and there are several I know of which are designed for limited-run white metal casting. I would suggest the Conchos, or whatever you're considering making, thicker and more robust than a piece designed for brass or silver. The original model for the Concho can be made using traditional modelmaking techniques, or simply sculpted in relief on a smooth flat surface in modelling clay and moulded. You can get some nice patinating fluids these days too, to give your castings very convincing aged patinas. Cheers, Karl

Crystal, Personally I use creasing for four reasons: 1. To drop the stitches below the surface of the leather so they don't get worn so readily. 2. To make the finished piece neater and more professional looking. 3. For decorative purposes. 4. By creasing you compress the fibres near the edge of the piece. I believe this strengthens the edge. Hope this helps. it is only my opinion, however. Karl

First off, please forgive my ignorance....self taught. I've never creased with a hot crease. I've cased the leather and worked the crease in with a cold tool. It gives OK results but not as crisp and clean, or deep, as I'd like. I'm a fan of creasing as I think compressing the leather at the edge is better than removing it with a groover or race. Just my opinion. I know different people have different ideas about this. How do I go about creasing with a hot tool? Also, is there a special crease I should get or will the tools I have be OK? They're standard leatherworking tools. I have a Dixon screw crease I like. How do I go about hot creasing and what do I need to watch out for. Many thanks as always, Karl

Wow! Lovely work. Cheers, Karl

Hi Kim, Nice work. Love the contrast of the Amber stones on black, beautiful. You'll like it here, I'm new myself. Everyone's so friendly and generous. Cheers, Karl

I like it. Bold and simple. I'm a fan of clean lines. Cheers, Karl

Ray, I have a 1400 RPM motor on mine which works great. 1/3 Horsepower at 240 Volts. I'd stay away from a rheostat as it's hard to judge the speed and the motor will stall easily when pressure is applied to the work. Cheers, Karl

Hey, I don't mind spending good money on a good tool.... Thanks for all the input. Order going in tomorrow. Cheers, Karl

Ray, Thanks for that. I have a really old round knife by them, but nothing new. I was going to put in an order and buy direct from the company, rather than try to find old tools. Do you like the Hollow Edge Shaves they make? Cheers, Karl

Hi Everyone, Does anyone here use tools made by the Joseph Dixon Company in the UK? I'm UK based and want to get some decent edgers, standard and round bottom. Do Dixons make good tools? Are some of their tools Ok and others not? The make strip knives and cutting boards for the leather industry as well. Cheers, Karl