badger

Welcome Ian, What Terry said I'm in the UK as well. Cheers, Karl

Very nice! I really like the clean lines of the design. Nice idea to have the strap under slight tension so it pulls away and out of danger. Tell me, did you add a welt along the cutting edge side of the sheath? Cheers, Karl

Ray, Congrats on the new machine! I used WD40 and old rags to clean the Pearson up. Squirt the WD40 into the rag until it's pretty damp. The WD40 lifts the heavy grease and dirt and leaves a light oil behind. If you then use paper towels afterwards it'll come up clean and dry, but still protected. Work in a small area, get it clean and then move on. I work from top to bottom. To clean the rust from the Pearson's machined surfaces, I used very fine emery paper (1000 grit) lubed with WD40 again. Shines like silver with just a few minute's work. Look forward to seeing it clean. Cheers, Karl

Welcome to the board. Nice folk here. Cheers, Karl

Just to let everyone know, the book is on it's way to Sam (ATX) in Texas. Sorry to everyone else that wrote, but Sam was the first. Cheers, Karl

Guys, I have a new copy of 'How to Carve Leather' that I don't need. Anybody who would like it can PM me their address and I'll post it over. Cheers, Karl

Thanks Ben, I'll check it out. Cheers, Karl

Thanks for you help Bob, I think I'll go for the Beard tool. I really appreciate you taking the time and effort to show me the differences. Cheers, Karl

Lighter fluid, which is largely Naptha, will degrease/deglaze almost anything. It's highly flammable (there's a clue in the name!). Use in a well ventilated area and it will evaporate very fast. Wear rubber gloves. Cheers, Karl

Nice holster. I like the simple, unfussy lines. It has that 'classic' look. A handsome piece, congratulations. Cheers, Karl

Bob, Thank you so much for showing me the demo of the two tools' impressions. I agree the two-tool system does give fantastic results. I can see so much more life in the pattern. I can also see a use for the tools on their own which adds more value to them as investments. I know the beard tools are $130 for each size. How do the Ellis Barnes tools compare price wise? Also, I'm intrigued as you mentioned the common errors when using the tools....what are they? Many thanks again for taking the time and effort. Cheers, Karl

Hey Steve, Yes, they were pretty versatile. Interesting, isn't it? I love stuff like this. Dave, one guy I know of who knows all about Singer 45Ks is Dave Flint. He rebuilds loads of them every year, I bought mine from him. Ray Hatley lives in the same town as he does. I know I had Dave Flint's number somewhere but can't lay my hands on it, but I bet Ray has it. Calling UKRay, come in UKRay..... Karl Karl

Dave, Looking through the parts list, there seems to be an option for stitch adjustment mechanism and feed dogs and plate. It seems it may be possible to upgrade the machine. Since yours has the open slot for the stitchlength regulator, it may have had one at some point.... I don't know really, I'm making this up I'd be interested to see if it's possible....... Cheers, Karl

Really nice belt. Congratulations. Cheers, Karl

Steve, Thanks. Yeah it's great to have it working. Ray, The serial number is 9386. I'm guessing, made in the 1920's? Does anyone know better? Cheers, Karl

Ray, I'd also be interested in a Director chair frame maker. I know how you feel about the missing screw and sympathise. The little sods even know how to add insult to injury by sitting right in your line of sight, as soon as you get the replacement. I don't trust my eyes any more. Once I've had a really good look for the missing screw, I get a dirty great magnet and push it around the floor for a while. Usually picks it up. Cheers, Karl

I think...Wow! GREAT JOB. Karl

Dave, Well, you can't go wrong for that kind of money. I sold my 45K about 8 weeks ago for over £600.00 Since they are basically the same chassis, with different configurations and features, I wonder if it's possible to add a stitch regulator/feed mech of some kind. What do you think Tony? Karl

Nothing yet Tony...... Royal mail really does take it's sweet time in getting back up to speed after the Hols, though. When did you send it? B

Dave, There must be a feed mechanism for the material. Mine had 'feed dogs' (kind of clawed feet) under the material. I'd be interested to see pics of the machine. I guess it mught be able to be fitted with a stitch adjustment mechansim. Hmmmmm.......... What kind of a bargain, if you don't mind me asking? Karl

The needle position sounds good. It was something I had to pick up, but it really works. Superglue works as well as threadlock, just be sure both parts are well oiled so the glue doesn't bond for good, just fills the gaps between the threads. I use this trick a lot. Is the stitch length knob on the front of the body, to the right at the back? Kind of a screw down knob over a vertical slot? Mine was a 45K58 which had this arrangement. I found the knob would shift slightly with the vibration of the machine and the stitch length would alter by itself. Bear in mind that the adjustment increment is very fine and a slight movement of the knob could translate as a huge difference in stitch length. Cheers, Karl

Hi Dave, The 45K is a good machine, solid and relaible. I don't know how experienced you are with this kind of thing, so forgive me if I'm preaching to the choir. As with all machines, you'll need to test sew a piece of scrap before you sew a work piece to be sure your adjustments are OK. Mine went out of adjustment fairly easily. It always needed a tweak when changing thickness of the leather being sewn. This is true of lots of machines. I would imagine it's hooked up to an electric motor. If this is the case, spend some time getting used to the clutch and finding the 'biting point'. I spent days just sewing different bits of scrap to get used to the machine. As you noted, it can be a beast. It won't notice sewing right through your finger. I liked my 45K and it was a reliable workhorse capable of handling up to half an inch of leather without any trouble. There's an occasional missed-stitch issue, sometimes attributed to this model. If the groove in the needle faces straight forward, toward the operator, the bobbin assembly can sometimes miss picking it up. If you turn the needle clockwise a bit, say 40 degrees, it should help stop this. Hope some of this of use to you. Cheers, Karl

Thanks Bob, I didn't know about the Bob Beard story. Very interesting. Pardon my ignorance but what are the visual differences between the tools' impressions? I only have a Tandy tool. The Bob Beard Tri-weave tools are $130 a piece so I need to be sure they're what I need, as I plan on at least two sizes. Cheers, Karl

All in jest, Greg I do appreciate all the help. Good to see another machine come back, right? Now I have the somewhat daunting challenge of restoring the other one..... Cheers, Karl

Here you go Greg! (Sheesh, you can't get away with anything around here ) Karl