Stetson912

Always wanted to give this a go. Looks great

My 2 cents, if it's a molded holster, the only side that could be molded and retain the front stamping would be the back. Leaving it plain would keep the best anesthetics after molding. If it's not to be molded, it could be stamped all around. Personally, if it's an owb not molded or a western style holster, I would probably stamp all of it, otherwise I'd have to rely on molding the back panel for retention and that would destroy any adornment in the end

I used an airbrush for all of it, I had to fight it too, my airbrush isn't very good hahaha, but it does make it easy I buffed it then used aussie conditioner and sealed with tan coat

I had some purple and jade angelus dye lying about and decided to try something different for me. It's a simple sunburst but the colors are fun. This has 2 card slots and a pocket, it can easily be expanded but I wanted to showcase the dye on one side.

Many approaches. As mentioned you an line it with very light leather or fabric. But. If you didn't want to line it there are other methods. I used to use tan coat and apply it then burnish it with my slicker best I could. But now, my go to method for glossy smooth unlined interiors is to use toconole and a glass burnisher. Just spread a light coat of toconole on the entirety of the back side and burnish. Comes out great. Obviously, you want to dye it first haha.

Cool stuff as usual

Nice and clean, I like it

The finished piece. I'll be redoing it most likely as the interior card slots are too thick

Thanks Bruce, I was able to take his class last year. I wish I could again this year, or get some 1 on 1 time with him to learn some things. I love the palosanto edger and the draw gauge I got from you too, thanks again Thanks, I will post the finished piece soon. It is done but, as I was afraid of, the leather I used for the interior was too thick so its not so functional, but looks nice haha. I will be redoing this one with thinner interior leather. Can't win them all, but it was my first attempt at this new pattern too

Thank you

I know what you mean. But I do kinda like it. I was originally going to have a border but, I made the pattern a bit too big so I did it this way

It will be stitched. It has a metal bar type closure that will be installed too

Here's a pattern by Rocky Minster that I decided to put on this clutch wallet back

Very cool

It is scary starting out. I used sibil johos glazing method, and it was easier than I thought haha. Still scary worrying about messing it up haha

I'm always afraid to color my work, but this came out ok so I thought I'd share, after a long radio silence, here it is. Thanks and enjoy

Looks like a Heizer skull and web haha. Looks nice to me. I have to make myself one one of these days

Always a pleasure seeing your "stuff" on here. Always really cool

Thanks, that's how I figured in doing it. Gomph hackbarth used to sell a 1018 steel stamp set. And old saddlers would make them from nails. If I try mild steel I'll have to just be extra careful haha

And I'm a dummy, I didn't see fat cat's response (good on you @GatoGordo!)

Bit late to the party. But if it were me, I would have to disassemble parts (discussed already I believe) to get to the damaged area. As for needles, if I didn't have any and couldn't fenangle a needle through, I would try cutting them down to a suitable size and polish the tips up on some sand paper or something, pliers would probably need to be used also to grab the shorter needles. Just my 2 cents here haha I hope you get it figured out

What do you use for stock? I picked up some stainless steel hex bolts and while I can work then they do seem tougher to work. I wouldn't mind 1018 or other similar mild steel. I thought about galvanized hex bolts and removing the coating somehow

That's my next investment. How do they do against stainless steel? Thanks for the tip

Awesome stuff! You inspired me to make my own stamps. What I've made so far work pretty well. Lots of practice needed tho haha. Your slickers look nice!

What Jls mentioned is also what al stohlman said in his figure carving finesse book. If you happen to have a copy (maybe check leathercraft library?) You can see examples and tool recomendations, page 112 I believe