Stetson912

It's a gun project. The customer was happy with it so that's what matters to me Itll look nice on a henry

I agree, I dont like grooves either. I like the European style like armitage does. And he has been doing it a long time. He is a master leather craftsman and I've noticed marked improvement in my stitching when I switched to the method he outlines.

Cool. DG pattern?

Well, hand stitching is an art in the itself. There are several ways to do it too. It's down to your preference in my opinion. So, I will refer you to two different people with two different styles. Al stohlman has a book called the art of hand stitching. This is a very traditional method with a gouge, overstitch wheel, and awl. The second has several videos on the subject. Very detailed. Nigel armitage has a youtube and paid vimeo channel. The vimeo is well worth the few dollars a month fee, but he gives you the basics on youtube as well. He can do traditional style very well, but has shown a more modern method using pricking irons. It is a very effective method and the one I choose to use. Hope it helps.

Very nice. I like it.

It does remind me of engravers scrolls.

Your style has changed but is still awesome. Your floral is different. Smoother maybe? I cant quite place it. Still looks great tho. Welcome back!

Nice! I agree Nigels series is awesome. I did a mystery braid handle on a bag I made a while ago. It's a nice touch I think. Yours came out well

The K.I.S.S method often works... I like a nicely tooled belt just as much as a "keep it simple... stupid" style such as this. I like the small details like the dark edge and creases and think that they add a bit of class.

My address is.... hehehe Nice and clean! I like it

Also, don gonzales has a video and article on how he antiques that I'd recommend

Honestly though, I think either way you apply it will be ok. It would have to sit a while and you'd have to work awful slow to notice any significant difference I think. If you are quick about it I think you'll be fine. Make sure u rub it in good and then wipe off each section or the whole project once application is done.

Apply your resist first I'd you are using one. Then let it dry thoroughly. Maybe 2 or 3 coats might be necessary too. Then you can either work in sections applying antique to one section at a time and wiping off Or you can antique the entire thing and then wipe it off. The issue here is that generally, the longer antique sits on the project the darker it gets. That means a potential for unevenness. I haven't dont large projects like that so I cant say what will really happen. In the end though, you will want to have covered the entire piece with antique and wiped it off. Even with resist, the color changes a bit. Covering the whole project makes it more uniform looking. If you are very careful, it may be possible to antique just a few areas. This is project specific of course. Did that answer your question? If theres any uncertainty or other questions feel free to ask

For something that large I would be worried about it sitting too long. I would work in sections. For application, sheep skin is great. It's used for lining saddles but it's great for applying antique. Use paper towel for wiping it off. If you cant find any sheep skin (saddle shops might let you have their scraps willingly) just use a wool dauber in circular motions. Really work the antique in and wipe off excess.

Gotta start somewhere, and you improve and learn best by messin up leather... if only it wasnt so expensive hahaha

This looks great. I want to commend you for stitching in the buckle. So many designs these days use rivets or screws but I've always been partial to the stitched method.

Well crap, now I have to make one haha. That's a good idea. Those mallets are kinda ugly with that bright yellow. Very clever idea I haven't seen before, and simple too. Sometime simplicity and necessity are the best inspiration.

I've started carving my flowers first, then secondary elements like any leaves. Then any other elements like smaller leaves and scrolls then the vinework starting with the stems of flowers and secondary elements. I bevel much the same order. With vinework I start with flower stems and move outward one side at a time. Usually, you bevel towards the background. That's how I see it anyway. Usually with floral, the vinework on each side of the center/main stem is layered. One sticker will be above another etc all the way to the background. That means they all bevel towards the background on the same side of the line. The other side of the main stem would bevel the other way. I hope that all makes sense haha. maybe itll help? Seeing the pattern background is hard to start, but gets easier, as you said, each time you do it.

Bargrounding is tough for me. And this pattern is a bit small so I lose lines sometimes. I've started focusing more on foreground to background tooling order and its helped a lot. Before I would just tool but changing the order like that really did help the overall look

Practice k adam tanner wallet pattern.

Looks good

If I remember correctly, theres a rather sizable detailed video or two by tony allen bernier on youtube about making a flat cap. His are lined that I've seen. It's possible that may help.

Thanks Thanks. It was fun. I've seen a lot of them with bullet loops. I'd like to see it when you get it done!

Qasnt too bad. About 6 hrs for me. Being slow. 8 if you include drawing the pattern. I rushed the tooling because I wasnt comfortable in my shop stool. Learned a lot too. I need one for my rif and e next haha may have to change it a bit Thanks for the kind words

I'd like to see it if you make one. I bet it will look really nice.