Stetson912

Gotta start somewhere, and you improve and learn best by messin up leather... if only it wasnt so expensive hahaha

This looks great. I want to commend you for stitching in the buckle. So many designs these days use rivets or screws but I've always been partial to the stitched method.

Well crap, now I have to make one haha. That's a good idea. Those mallets are kinda ugly with that bright yellow. Very clever idea I haven't seen before, and simple too. Sometime simplicity and necessity are the best inspiration.

I've started carving my flowers first, then secondary elements like any leaves. Then any other elements like smaller leaves and scrolls then the vinework starting with the stems of flowers and secondary elements. I bevel much the same order. With vinework I start with flower stems and move outward one side at a time. Usually, you bevel towards the background. That's how I see it anyway. Usually with floral, the vinework on each side of the center/main stem is layered. One sticker will be above another etc all the way to the background. That means they all bevel towards the background on the same side of the line. The other side of the main stem would bevel the other way. I hope that all makes sense haha. maybe itll help? Seeing the pattern background is hard to start, but gets easier, as you said, each time you do it.

Bargrounding is tough for me. And this pattern is a bit small so I lose lines sometimes. I've started focusing more on foreground to background tooling order and its helped a lot. Before I would just tool but changing the order like that really did help the overall look

Practice k adam tanner wallet pattern.

Looks good

If I remember correctly, theres a rather sizable detailed video or two by tony allen bernier on youtube about making a flat cap. His are lined that I've seen. It's possible that may help.

Thanks Thanks. It was fun. I've seen a lot of them with bullet loops. I'd like to see it when you get it done!

Qasnt too bad. About 6 hrs for me. Being slow. 8 if you include drawing the pattern. I rushed the tooling because I wasnt comfortable in my shop stool. Learned a lot too. I need one for my rif and e next haha may have to change it a bit Thanks for the kind words

I'd like to see it if you make one. I bet it will look really nice.

I'm no great Carver either. Just takes practice. Thanks for the kind words. It would look nice stamped with an arrow basket weave I think *hint hint*

Awesome man. Good to see you back. I've been.meaning to get around to making a pocket organizer. All projects look good. I like the wrap on the first skiving knife too

This was for my uncle. Its pictured on my gun but I made it for his. So I honestly cant say. But if I ever get around to making one of my own, I would definitely wrap the lever in some way.

Thanks it was fun to do. Thanks Munky, it was a lot of back grounding. But turned out ok I think Thanks! I don't know. I made it for my uncle. No complaints yet though. I did skive it a little thinner than the leather i used for the rest of it. I wouldn't think it would be uncomfortable. I didn't fire it but I shouldered it and it felt about the same as normal. His is also a .357 mag instead of a 30.30 like mine

Hans atelier on youtube has two videos making very similar airpods cases. Along with patterns. You may want to look it up. I think that design is actually done by him as well

Thanks! Fun project Thank you.

All I can think of for chrome tan is edge paint. Which I'm still figuring out myself. Edge kote (a feibings product) might work also. There are lots of types of edge paint, but I personally use indelible brand from makers.

Finally finished this stock cover for a model 94. 100% leather construction. Lined with deerskin and laced together. Even the back strap is laced in and tied off. I'm happy with how it came out, especially since I dont own a lacing chisel haha

Well, that's frustrating. But, I have had that problem before as well. What I did, depending on how much more room you need, is I took a spade bit the size of my snap and drilled out the depth I needed. If you have a french skive you can do much the same thing. Basically the idea is to cut away a circle of leather just wide enough that your snap sets lower than it would. And, if you are worried about the line coming up, stitch around the snap. Unfortunately 7/16 I think is as long as they get. You could try and separate the layers and set the snap between the layers as well. But you wouldn't be able to use the cap part, just the flat base post for both sides of the snap. Anywho, hope my experience with your frustration helps a bit

Hope it works out for you

Looks great. Nice job

Well if it were me and I had to rely on math, I would do this for a starting place: Leather dimension = phone dimension + phone thickness+ 2x leather thickness + 2x stitch allowance + extra If needed. I would make the width of your case 76mm + extra (maybe 8 mm?) Total 86mm. Obviously this isnt exact and may vary a bit. But should get you close. The extra to add will depend on how loose the phone needs to be. Then do the same for the height. That being said, I would recommend making a blank. You can make one out of leather scrap too if you need too. And cardboard works well also for basic shapes like most phones.

Bummer, I also stopped ordering from them.. well leather anyway. I got some caiman and its junk. Still rawhide in the middle and damn near impossible to cut. I get what I need elsewhere.

This is 3/4 oz. Probably closer to 4. I got it at makers leather supply. I'm not sure if they still have it or not as I got it a good while ago. I know what you mean about it feeling flimsy. Some leathers are softer and others have a firmer feel. I would give it a go with what you have and see how it comes out. This wallet has a t slot and bottom pocket on a panel to make the card pockets. That assembly is then stitched to the back. So it is essentially 2 layers of 3 oz or so and that can stiffen it up a bit.