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Rockoboy

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Posts posted by Rockoboy


  1. Two ideas that come to mind,

    1. make a flap that can be sewn to the back of the pack, and folds down over the open top.

    2. Make a top piece the same diameter as the top and identical to the bottom side panel, but make it out of very soft and flexible leather so the top will cinch together with a drawstring.


  2. On ‎9‎/‎19‎/‎2019 at 10:36 AM, BKW said:

    Thanks, so no Turpentine to allow it to soak in?

     

    I know a bloke who mixes neatsfoot oil and lanolin (proportions are a bit vague depending on the consistency required) and a dash of PURE GUM TURPENTINE, not the regular turpentine. Its has a pleasant smell, I think, from the pure gum turpentine.


  3. 6 hours ago, farns005 said:

    Sorry may be using wrong terminology, but what mean by slicking is that I get my leather wet, usually by very quick dip, the apply a lather of dove soap and then take a glass slicker an with moderate force run it all over the front surface of the leather.  This smooths out imperfections and compresses the leather prior to tooling.  I don’t do this on all pieces, but really like what it does to softer belly and shoulder leather.  You may get some stretch when you do this so best to do before final cuts.  Really like how it tools after compared to loose spongy leather.  I know one saddle maker that compresses all his leather with a press prior to tooling.

    This isn’t burnishing and not on the rough out.

     

    Kelly

     

    5 hours ago, robs456 said:

    To use fewer words than farns005: You're right but it all happens on the grain side.

    I just started doing it as well, it is much nicer to cut in when the leather is 'slicked'.

    I stand corrected. Thank you for the description of the process.


  4. On ‎9‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 12:54 AM, JLSleather said:

    I thought them down under boys was in meters....

    Depends on a bloke's (or shiela's) age. I am 55, and we learnt both at school but mostly metric IIRC, then focused on metric as a boilermaker. Some people favour one or the other depending on where their life took them after school ended.


  5. I am also under the impression that a coat of pure neatsfoot oil (not the compound which includes silicon) assists with dispersion of the dye in between the fibres of the leather, which also helps with evening out any dark or light patches..

    16 hours ago, fredk said:

    1. dampen leather, not as wet as for moulding but as wet as for tooling

    Also, having some water in there helps to pull the dye in AFAIK.

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