tomsmith85717
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About tomsmith85717
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laser,s bags and shoes
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Leatherwork Specialty
bags and shoes
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bags and shoes
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I recently learned a style of attaching uppers to the sole. It involves making two parallel lines with a stitching groover and then running a french edger in between the the groover cuts. this allows a place for the rolled over upper to sit flush in the bottom of the shoe. So I am looking for professional tools to do professional work. Here is my question, I am looking for good professional versions of the tools. I like to use them with a reverse grip and pulling towards my body, so they should be usable ambidextrously. I am torn with several ideas getting 2 cheap handles and fitting good replacement blades from high end groovers into them that way I never have to adjust them as you are always setting on at 1/4" and the other is at the width of the french skiver. getting a Ron's tools groover (how deep can it groove into the leather? i need about an 1/8 of an inch depth) getting something like a barry king groover... who is making really good french skivers in the 1/4" width these days. I have large but not abnormal sized hands.
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Personal project wallet!
tomsmith85717 replied to Rodeoman's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Well... maybe not the plastic part. -
Lets be real they really just wanted a dremel...excuses help some people sleep at night. Also I was dicking about with my dremel ... a tapered diamond bit makes wicked holes for rivets/ Chicago screws in areas where punches are less than ideal.
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this! 1000x this! Hell get an Olfa snap knife and strop the blade you will get a similar enough result. If you knife isnt cutting smoothly it isnt sharp enough. I also like to mirror my sheilds. I feel like the double thick looks more substantial and it has to be more secure than a single rivet. I cut, place my ring glue and clamp then stick it to the leather, and stitch it down. Quick rarely means good. Good is rarely quick.
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New leather sewing machine- I am down to two
tomsmith85717 replied to GavinO's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
If you are planning on using upholstery leather, I would suggest an upholstery machine. The weight of what you are wanting to stitch needs to be matched to the ideal range of the machine. Get leather too thick and your machine wont be able to handle it: get am machine designed for stitching saddles and try to stitch upholstery leather it will eat your leather and make bad stitches. My advice, buy the best machine you can afford to purchase, outfit and maintain. Older machines can get pricey with replacement parts and labor quickly. If you are not very mechanically adept or have loads of time to repair an old machine, buy a new clone from a place that can answer your questions get you parts or even fix problems. If you are somewhat mechanically adept get a slightly older model flagship with an assload of youtube how to fix... videos. If you are a mechanical wizard buy the cheapest machine and become a part time sewing machine mechanic, you could even turn that hobby into its own business (I'm looking at you Uwe). -
I dont know why I never thought that someone has to make those kinds of things. I am glad to know its a weirdo like me who makes such tings. keep up the good work.
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I went to the university surplus place and got a stool it isnt perfect its too short, it was made in 1997 (doesnt look a day over 10 though) its built like a tank had to have cost them like $600 new... but at $25 USD I will gladly try to mod it into a great stool, I will also swing by that place on the semi regular as they have some cool and weird shit at garage sale prices. Honestly if you needed a cheap sturdy work bench they had old lab tables and ridiculous desks for like $20
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I have not forgotten about that I am just not holding my breath until i find one i could afford.
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How many out there use the back on the stool? Every time I try to sew with a chair with a back I find that I am leaning forward enough that I am not even putting any weight on the back section. I cant tell if this is good or bad posture. I will see if the university near me is selling any stools. Definitely a good tip.
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Tall does it go? I am going to need one that is about 30"+- off the ground.
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Ok I cant figure out where to put this topic as it isnt a sewing machine question per se, but it totally is. I need to find a stool /chair for sewing at. I have a cobra class 26 on their pedestal stand. I was using a craptacular IKEA stool with a piano stool like adjustability, but the damn thing just cant handle daily use. I have bounced between the stand to sew and stool to sew but I just added a foot pedal to the sewing machine to control reverse (because it seemed easier than growing a third arm) so unless I can master the whole hovering by yogic mental powers alone I need a better stool. Any suggestions?
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How to glue plastic and leather together?
tomsmith85717 replied to samNZJP's topic in How Do I Do That?
You want a glue that has a decent bond and is flexible. super glue is way to hard and brittle. If you use epoxy then you want one with a low psi rating. If in doubt try barge. -
Former glass blower here it is real hard to make a flat bottom and straight sides with out a mold and glass molds are a fairly recent thing. but if you get a rounded bottom heat it evenly and then push up with a punty stick it will push fairly evenly leaving you a smaller surface to try to flatten with out bulging and even if you didnt try to flatten the ring it would still sit more evenly
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That is what incognito windows are for.
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Any country that doesnt employ near slave labor is going to mean expensive boots. The number of man hours involved in making boots of any quality is at least 5 with really specialized equipment that costs more than a house, or 10-20 man hours with normal standard industrial leather working equipment. If you were to pay someone minimum wage there is between $50 and 200 in labor just for them and that doesnt count insurance or social security. IF the person has any skill what so ever they need to be paid $25-30 per hour to keep them at your shop and if they are working for themselves they really need to be charging $40 to $60. If you can get American made boots for less than $200 you are stealing them if they are custom and less than $300 they are working for the exposure alone. OR you can buy shoes made by slaves or shoes made with inferior components. Shoes that cost less than $100 means someone didnt eat or you are getting plastic that has been glued together. I will get off my soap box now.