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Like a Juki CP-18? You would need a motor control to plug it into. Then a motor that works with the motor control. Then a sewing machine that is designed to accept all the do-dads and compressed air fittings to work with the motor and motor control (foot lift solenoids, etc). So...no. One thing that will work with older machines is a motor that has a built in needle positioner function. You add a synchronizer to the end of the handwheel, plug it into the motor and then you can use the treadle in heel up/down fashion to position the needle when you back off the throttle (needle buried at the end of a seam, etc). That's about as fancy as it gets with vintage machines unless you wan to reverse engineer something more elaborate.

By timing belt did you mean motor belt? Easy to replace. The Chandler C-267 looks to be a clone of the Juki DNU-241, which was the predecessor to the 1541. The 241's are horizontal rotary hook, gear driven, no timing belt. That said, one could look online for any and all info about the 241's for diagnosis and maintenance. Maybe even on this site.

Looking at Craig's List in the Vancouver area I see at least 2 decent Juki single needle machines (there is a 555 for $300) and down in Bellingham there is a sweet Juki LU-563 for $550 which would maybe be worth the drive if you want to hassle with the border.

Also - and this is ridiculous to even post on this forum - the Singer "heavy duty" home machines will sew jeans and denim all day. I have one I got used locally for $40 (a basic 4411 machine) and I would not hesitate to sew any kind of pants or jackets with it. For a little machine it has a surprising amount of umph.

If you are gonna go for a drop feed single needle, look for a Juki DDL 8700 machine. These are EXTREMELY common in the used market, I see them on Craig's List for $300 - $500 all the time. The 8700's are built to be a little more heavy duty than the DDL 5500's. The 5500's (or older 555's, etc) are built more for higher speeds in general garment construction, while the 8700's are a little slower but cover a wider range a little better (like denim). That said, most single needle machines can be dialed in for heavier fabrics with a specific throat plate, feed dogs, etc. This vid has some good info: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXnApXF_sQU If you are going to be doing heavier denim, canvas, etc I would look for a basic compound feed walking foot machine. Something like a Singer 111w, Consew 206, older Jukis, etc. Most of the upholstery grade machines will sew through canvas and denim, etc with little to no modification. Leif Labs has a great primer here: http://leiflabs.blogspot.com/2016/06/how-to-choose-industrial-sewing-machine.html

I've been looking at large diameter machines, like a Consew 227 or a Pfaff 345. How does one go about ordering one of those plates and folders from Kwok Hing? Their website is a mystery. I'd need a 1" version of that exact setup, I'm doing folded ballistic nylon bias tape. I've looked at 335 machines with a sync'd binder and they prob won't handle the thicker assemblies and slippery nylons I'm using, so I've been considering a static binder setup on a machine that has elliptical drop feed.

This is the one I have. It's very similar to the Reliable Sewquiet 6000. http://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Workhorse-Servo-Motor-110V They have some pretty detailed youtube vids about installing these, and the instructions apply to most any servo motor you would buy as a replacement to a clutch motor.

Sailrite has a sale right now on their Workhorse servo. I have one, it's fantastic. Plenty of torque, super quiet and great slow control.

Well there is always the upholstery in the truck that could be customized, so you could make it about both!

Tip: in Gimp right click on your layer(s) and "Add Alpha Channel". Each layer defaults with no alpha channel, so anything you delete will just go to opaque white in the layer. Whatever you delete will NOT subtract to transparency until you add the alpha channel. Also in Gimp your selections can be saved to new channels and then recalled by selecting the channel and adding it back or creating a new selection. This makes it very quick and easy to build sets of selections when working on deleting backgrounds.

The AMS sold on ebay and is hopefully off to a new life somewhere! Hate to see it go but I don't have the spare space for this to sit inactive while I figure it out. I am preparing this 1560n for sale. Anyone need a double needle compound feed? It's in fantastic shape. Only sign of use is the typical minor scratches on the bed from attachments. Comes with a table and 650w servo.

Maybe check the clearance and centering on the needle to the hole in the center foot? Be sure the needle is centered correctly in the hole. Perhaps thread is getting hung up there on turns, or in the needle plate. Does this happen when making turns in motion while sewing, or while making turns while stopped with the needle buried and the presser foot lifted?

Battery charger, some clamps, wire and old wrenches. Or white vinegar and a little elbow grease. Here is WAY more than you wanted to know:

Btw I remember back in the 80's when a common screen print chemical we used for de-hazing was caustic and would burn skin and dissolve eye tissue on contact. So yeah... healthy respect!

By "healthy respect" I meant full tyvek protection, approved and well maintained respirators, proper ventilation, etc etc. Then again I like it when machines look well used, so maybe I'll stick to a little steel wool and some wax for these old Singers I'm cleaning up here.

Hmm. I'm actually not scared for maybe occasional use. I spent years and years in a screen printing shop - I have a healthy respect but not much fear about coatings and solvents.

I looked at Durkopp Adler. Really nice stuff. However - the DA 867 is at least 50% more expensive than the 2810 and has very similar specs. (and replacement parts I am sure are INSANELY expensive) I'm not considering any of the Juki clones really. If I can get a decent used 1508NH I might go for that but the high and wide arm on the 2810 would be great for trickier/bulkier bag items and wider swatches. My dream setup right now would be a 2810-7 and a 2342-7...

Anyone? If you had to buy again, would you have picked a different machine?

Size 16, or do you mean a 16 leather point? I do size 18 for bonded 69. In my experience the thread can get hung up on a size 16 and not loop correctly at the hook.

You can see the reflection of the decal on the bed in the shiny paint of the arm. That's a crazy nice machine.

STH-8BLD-3 will have: Longer max stitch length Shorter needle stroke Slightly lower foot lift Pretty much same specs otherwise.

This is not the last one. You know this. We all know this.

Yep! Too small and the foot won't set all the way down over the piping and you'll get slipping, and the stitching will waver. Too big and the piping will wander around under the foot. It's especially maddening with slippery materials. The right size will lock it all down.

Yeah the programming is a nightmare, after I would go through the nightmare of getting this thing up and running again. Double nightmares are just not my thing.

After wrestling the AMS machine into my storage and reviewing the tech manuals again, I've decided to part it out and/or scrap it. Anyone want some pattern tacker parts?