R8R

HOW. WHERE.

This is what I use, since I already had it from my drum kit - https://store.dwdrums.com/p/hvy-duty-dw-throne-w-motorcycle-seat-top If it will survive multiple national tours being tossed around inside cases and my 220 lbs sitting on it for hours, sewing is no prob.

Can I ask why you are narrowing it only to a few Consew machines with minimal thread capacity?

So on page 117 of the parts manual for the 2810, it lists "Juki Grease A" part number 40006323. This is the same grease listed for the 9000 series machines, and a few others. I'll prob grab a tube at some point.

Thanks for the reply. If and when it needs a little more grease, what do you use? Does Juki have some special grease they recommend?

Or something like a Consew 2040, etc if it has to be a flat bed.

You misunderstood. The machine is designed to have zero oil on the upper parts. Grease only. I'm trying to figure out how often to re-grease - there is no mention of it in the manual. (the hook get's plenty of oil, I did the paper splash test)

I am copy/pasting here a post I made in another topic to get a more specific conversation going. I have a new Juki "semi-dry" machine (LU-2810) that is lubed by an oil pump underneath for the hook and lower feed, but lubed by grease and wicks on everything above the bed. Zero oil on these upper parts. None. The manual has one page about lubrication and it's basically just about how to fill the lower oil tank. There is no information about grease - like what grease, how often to re-grease, etc. (monthly, yearly?) It is seemingly "permanently lubed" north of the bed according to the manual. I come from bike shops and factory maintenance jobs. (I was also facility and equipment manager at a big screen print shop) I live by the book for maintenance but this seems like machine suicide. There must be SOME kind of recommended interval for greasing these machines? Like...the needle bar not needing oil...that's just WEIRD. Anyone have an engineer's manual for these types of Jukis? One thing I learned long ago is that if it is truly engineered for grease - DON'T oil it. Oil eventually dilutes the grease and may not supply proper lubricity for a given part. Thoughts? One thing I love is I don't really have to worry about staining at all. No need to wipe down the foot every time I start up.

I have the 1" sailrite binder. Works well on a flat bed machine with 1" pre-folded woven bias tape or similar material. It will NOT do a very thick assembly. It's nicely made though. Curiously, Sailrite does not sell binder specific presser feet along with it. It works WAY better with a generic binder presser foot set.

Sailrite has some great vids about timing their Ultrafeed machines. Pretty exhaustive in detail. I have a generic clone of one (Family/Feiyue/Yamata) I got from a Goodwill depot store for $3. (yes...THREE dollars) Watched a few vids and after a bit of fiddling it runs great.

Here is a good vid of that machine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6apOFMN2PTA In the vid comments is a link to the manual: http://strongbolt.work/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Rex_Chandler-26-188-and-TDU-N62.pdf 135x17 (or for leather 135x16) needle up to a size 23 so you are safely looking at a 138 thread or maybe up to a 207 with some tweaking. I keep posting up about the Sailrite/Reliable 12 coil servo motors. They have fantastic power and slow speed control. I've used ancient clutch motors, newer clutch motors, basic and more advanced servos and out of all of them the Sailrite has been my favorite. (The Reliable Sewquiet is basically the same motor) https://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Workhorse-Servo-Motor-110V https://store.keysew.com/catalog/product/f12bce0ab9754bbc84a8055aaf375ffc Or add a speed reducer pulley if you really want to go very slow. https://store.keysew.com/parts/sewing-parts/sr-2 You're looking at $150 - $200 for total speed control investment. Grinding the "bite" off of the presser feet and backing off the pressure should help a lot with the marks.

Ok here is my question and it's semi related (so I hope I'm not hijacking here) I have a new Juki semi-dry head (LU-2810) that is lubed by an oil pump underneath for the hook and lower feed, but lubed by grease and wicks on everything above the bed. Zero oil on these upper parts. None. The manual has one page about lubrication and it's basically just about how to fill the lower oil tank. There is no information about grease - like what grease, how often to re-grease, etc. It is seamingly permanently lubed north of the bed according to the manual. I come from bike shops and factory maintenance jobs. I live by the book for maintenance but this seems like machine suicide. There must be SOME kind of recommended interval for greasing these machines? Anyone have an engineer's manual for these types of Jukis? One thing I learned long ago is that if it engineered for grease don't oil it. Oil eventually rinses off the grease and may not supply proper lubricity for a given part.

Welcome to the world of industrial machine refurbishment and maintenance! Get cozy with this site: https://www.mcmaster.com/

Actually yes, and when I have the budget I'll give Techsew a call.

THAT is how you answer customer concerns. Well played sir.

Former bike mechanic here. I swear by Triflow for literally everything except sewing - stains too easily. But most would agree plain old sewing machine oil is just fine.

Everyone say it together... "LILY WHITE".

I am fairly sure this is a Consew (Seiko?) re-badged machine. Consew made other Toyota badged machines.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/79523-thor-sewing-machines/

Here is a lead: http://www.sewingmachinesaustralia.com.au/shop/buy-spare-parts/toyota/toyota-ad320 If they know what parts to sell they are getting that info from somewhere like a parts list or a manual.

Give Robeson Sewing down in Franklin a call, they may have something that suits you, and they are friendly and helpful. Not a long drive from Nashville. Nick-O-Sew is about a three hour drive and they have many used models. Most any basic flat bed upholstery class machine will work for you. Total budget and preference for features determines final choice. How much do you have to drop on a new machine or are you strictly looking for used?

Ah! Just noticed after this post it was a 16. yeah I always have WAYY better luck with an 18 and 69. Too much thread bunching and breakage with a 16, especially on coated woven materials.

I get this sometime with two layers of heavy nylon (1050 ballistic) I start by backing off both tensions then creeping them back up equally till the balanced tension is acceptable. If the tensions on both are too high, little inconsistencies can have big effects like the tension jumping and pulling to one side, etc. I always go for minimal tension to make a good stitch, and minimal feed pressures. Also, sometimes adjusting thread guides (if adjustable) can effect thread take up and fix minor tension tweaks.

I used to be the facility manager at a screen printing shop. My #1 rule was always to put casters on everything that could accept them. Only the largest equipment that needed to be anchored to the floor did not have wheels. (presses, conveyor dryers, air compressor systems, etc). Everything else was roll-able, and everywhere could be vacuumed! It also makes the shop modular and much easier to relocate or upgrade equipment, or quickly make space for temporary projects.

Oh and note to self: GET A FRIKKIN 3D PRINTER ALREADY.