R8R

Seems easy enough aside from having nowhere to tilt the head back...

Ok I see this every so often on specs sheets, catalogs, etc - thread sizes starting from "#0" (approx 207?) to whatever, getting...thinner. (#8 = 92...ok) Is there a comparative chart somewhere that includes this numbering system? Is it an Asian system or?

Who makes the new motor? Looks like first button is "needle up" / "needle down" when positioning is enabled. Second button is motor rotation, and also serves to adjust parameters. (probably doubles as minus button?) Plus is....plus? Set is set.

Received the 2600 today. It's... noisy.

Thanks. Since you have a 2810 variant there, can you tell me if there is a significant vibration at one point in it's speed curve? Mine starts out smooth, hits a resonant oscillation about 700 rpm or so, (ish) which dies back down when I get it above say 1000 rpm. I think the balancer needs a tap one way or another but I don't want to make a jackhammer out of the machine until I at least see what standard spec is.

Which is the same base machine as the Sailrite Fabricator, except it has the bobbin winder built in. Both nice machines (I had the Fabricator, loved it)

Oh and looking at that link, the Techsew is literally the only one listed one should consider for anything but thin garment leather.

Better than the Janome? Yes. Better than a larger used compound feed walking foot machine off Craig's List? No, but it's about the same price. What's your budget? Maybe look for a used Singer 111W, Juki 562 or 563, etc. The Sailrite is a cool little machine (made mainly for sail cloth and the like) and you can "get by" sewing leather on it, and it's portable, but it does not climb or stitch like a dedicated industrial machine can. But - if it's all you have room for, it's great for it's size. No home machine no matter how "heavy duty" it's claim can beat the portable walking foot machines. And if it's thick leather, get a thick leather machine like a Cowboy CB3200, etc.

Looks to be about 76mm (ish) spacing on the end plate mounting holes, with another set of holes inside those at 40mm to mount the belt cover bracket.

I believe 190R needles are a bit longer, same shank.

(that sounded harsh) I will say they were very attentive and helpful at Atlas, even though they were slammed with customers in a cramped store I just didn't like the machines.

This machine type (Consew 227R) is cloned under countless brands. This is Goldstar Tool's house brand, just as Atlas Levy has their Atlas brand, Sunny Sewing has Thor, etc etc. I would look for a dealer close to you and buy from them. Even if it's a bit of a drive (my Juki dealer is 2 hours from here, 3 in traffic) Don't buy a cheap machine from a dealer on the other side of the country unless you know you want to deal with it when things go wrong, or have an expensive local tech make it right. Bring in samples of what you want to sew, get matched up with the exact right machine. You will be happier to have the support, and down the road a little extra money you might have to spend won't even be something you remember - but you will never forget a nightmare machine. I visited Atlas Levy a few weeks ago and the Atlas machines in their show room - well I'll just say they were not impressive. Some looked like they had been sitting for years untouched, and one seemed to be almost frozen with some surface rust on it. I considered buying one of their machines once, but after seeing them in person and the operation in general, I (personally) would look elsewhere.

I guess I would believe affixed equipment tags over paper? My understanding is later 206's are Chinese and the 4's or earlier (or Seiko's of the same type) are Japanese.

Run down a list of all the basics and make sure you have that covered. Sometimes it's one stupid thing that throws off everything else. New needle (correct needle class!) Good quality thread Clean machine (no thread hung up anywhere in or under the hook, etc) Well oiled machine - oil everything, then oil it again. Don't use any old junk oil, use clean, clear sewing machine oil, generously. Wipe off excess. Correct needle bar height Hook timing Smooth, clean, well oiled hook with no scrapes, rough spots or burrs. Correct hook/needle gap Correct feed dog height - also check the feed dogs for nicks or scrapes or burrs that can hang up thread. Foot pressure Evenly wound bobbin, not wound up at overly high tension Top tension - make sure the inside surfaces of the tension discs are smooth with no grooves or roughness. The thread path from spool to needle eye should be smooth. Bobbin case tension

Anyone have this manual? I looked everywhere. I "think" the balancer may need a little tweaking but I wanted to find out what factory spec is first.

I think I want to be buried with it.

Thanks for the input. Yikes....that sound was NOT good. Yeah there are some bad apples in every batch, especially with clones I suppose. Good to hear you got it resolved one way or another. This will primarily be for binding operations with light leather and woven nylons. I could not justify dropping $5k on a new Juki 246, as it's a pretty dated design. I definitely don't need the 2342 yet. I considered going for a used 1341 and trying to track down their binding converter kit but it's back ordered, possibly forever as the 1341 is officially discontinued in the US. (per my local dealer) So the 2600 seemed like the best choice, as it has a bit of a heavier edge over a 355 or similar machine. I really want the synched binding for tighter corners. I think I saw that flat bed on eBay. I have the flatbed end of things covered with a 2810, but I will think about it.

Had? How did you like the machine? Can I ask why you don't have it anymore?

Yeah all the correct things are there but it's a total syntax error in my brain when I first read it. I have a Techsew 2600 on order that should be here any time now. I hope their manual is better and not a Juki copy...

Check out Uwe's timing video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wNBPX8i524 It is for a vertical hook design but much of the procedure and sequence applies to timing many machines. And his vids are relaxing, which is good when you want to flip the damn table stand over when the machine is being finicky.

There should be 2 marks on the needle bar. Set the bar to the top mark on the needle bar bushing when it's at the very bottom of it's stroke. Rotate the handwheel so the bar comes up 2.4mm from bottom. This should put the bar at the bottom mark. Loosen the hook and adjust so the very tip of the hook blade is passing center of the needle (looking from the end of the arm, hook rotating CCW) and the hook tip is 1.5mm above the top of the needle eye. At least, that would be what the manual is stating, and assuming all your parts are original and genuine Juki.

Just for reference, is this the manual you are looking at? http://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_j/download_j/manual_j/dsc240/menu/dsc246,-7/pdf/instruction_eg.pdf

I think to set the needle height the hook at least needs to be at least roughly timed? If the hook is advanced or retarded far away from the needle when it's 2.4 mm up from bottom trying to set the final height is kinda pointless.

On this motor, the left hand button on the control box sets the positioner functions - a long press toggles positioning on/off, short press toggles between needle up or down. I love this because it makes it super easy to turn positioning off without scrambling through a cryptic set of menu items, and the box is mounted to the front of the table...no more crouching under the table to adjust parameters. When "needle-down" is toggled, the needle will bury when you let off the treadle. Continue sewing and the needle will bury again when you let off. Heel back on the treadle and the needle will lift. When "needle-up" is toggled, the needle will lift when you let off the treadle. Heel back on the treadle in this mode and nothing happens, it will stay lifted. One note about needle down/up here - this has a dual position synchro. You can set exactly where the needle positions in up/down are. On single position synchros, you set it for needle-down position, (typically a millimeter or two up from dead-bottom to get a loop ready at the hook fir the next stitch) and heeling back on the treadle will signal the motor/synchro to cycle the main shaft 180 degrees to needle-up position. (or vice versa if you set it that way) With a dual synchro, you set exactly where that needle-up position is (all the way needle bar at TDC, just descending, etc). I dig it. Also yes, light tap on the treadle results in a single stitch with needle up or down as toggled.

Back to this thread to answer my own question... yes it can! Installed it a few days ago. This motor rules. Might have to go full tilt and get a new lift solenoid - I really like that feature on the Enduro but the solenoid I had was bunk.