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R8R

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Everything posted by R8R

  1. Not common with hobby sewing but it's a fantastic feature once you get used to it. Typically with motors it's: Motor only Motor + needle positioning Motor + needle positioning + foot lift output Motor + needle positioning + foot lift output + every thing else (trimmer, backtack, etc etc) College has the Jack, ISM, Ho Hsing and Efka options. The 750w Jack and ISM will offer needle positioning and decent power. The Ho Hsing and Efka will have really good speed control and power but you are also paying for many features you won't use unless your machine is equipped for it. (automatic function solenoids, etc)
  2. Then there is the crazy trick where you use nylon and just add extra stitches...
  3. Juki LU-562 or 563. Like the exact same machine with a reverse lever thrown on.
  4. Consew/Seiko 206rb clone. Ubiquitous. How much was the good price?
  5. I found one on Amazon...40/50 double! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07G6ZV5DY
  6. 'Nother question - Anyone have a source for small pulleys with a v-belt profile (3L?) and a 14mm bore? NOT with a keyway, this has a 14mm bore with two socket screws opposed 90 degrees. The pulley that came with it is 85mm, I'm looking for a 55mm or smaller. I am finding lots of servo motor timing belt pulleys, but none for v-belts. I did a search for the Seiko/Ho Hsing part number 2VP2PY4041D (for 65mm) but no luck.
  7. Picked up a Seiko HVP-70 motor off ebay for a low offer. It showed it spec'd as 220v but a simple wire swap inside converted it to 110v. (pretty sweet feature) Question for anyone familiar - is there a way to toggle the positioning on/off? If it's possible, it is not readily apparent in the manual. (which is DEEP)
  8. Only a minor difference in price. You won't regret the 750w, but you *might* regret the 550w. You still need plenty of punch to get through 1000D nylon.
  9. No a vertical hook has a drop-in bobbin.
  10. I have the Juki 2810 with 1100w positioning servo on it. Rock solid machine. It was $2850 altogether after I added the better motor.
  11. Had one, good machine, different beast. No comparison. If you are doing leather regularly, CB3200 all the way. Fabricator is for canvas, upholstery, light leather.
  12. The Efka motor will most likely be 220v. Impossible to say if this is a good deal without seeing the machines.
  13. The bells and whistles are nice, but you aren't doing high volume, which is what the bells and whistles are for. You can buy a brand new machine with the same sewing capacity with a warranty for the same money.
  14. So I thought this machine was sewing fine but I kept getting weird skips, loose stitches and occasional birds nests (which can be VERY challenging to free up in a machine like this!), especially on heavier items and multiple layers. Slowing the machine down helped a bit but there was still some phantoms that did not want to leave. After a super thorough clean and lube, and an even more thorough inspection and inventory of issues, I ordered a slew of minor parts and dug in with the engineer's manual. Turns out on a machine like this even small deviations from adjustment specs can have big impacts. Much more so than a plain mechanical machine. Today installed a new hook, new check spring, new tension disks, new bed hinges and rubber (the old hinges were bent bad) and a few other missing screws and such and the oddly missing eye shield. Never a good idea to run a machine this fast without one. I already broke one needle last week and it shot across the shop like a bullet. Took the plunge and adjusted the timing from scratch. Turns out it was sewing ok, and "timed", but not timed exactly right to the 135x17 needle system, and the shuttle driver was adjusted WAY outboard and hitting the needle! Reset the needle bar, driver and adjusted the shuttle carriage. The adjustments on this thing are cool, very easy to time it and set the needle/hook gap. Replacing the tension disks and check spring was way more challenging than anticipated, and required some exact setup so the tension adjustments would respond correctly from the control panel. NOW it sews great. Can sew much faster and I'm not getting any weird lock ups or tension issues. Still have to repair the bottom corner of the machine where the hinge pin is. Prob JB Weld will do the trick. The hinge holds on fine and it tilts fine but I'm a completist. (is that a word?) Happy sewing.
  15. BTW I own a Singer 4411 (same as the 4432 but less variety of stitch patterns). It would stop cold before the first stitch into veg tan. Clothes and quilts and such, all day. Great machine for that.
  16. 1. No 2. Nope 3. Nada 4. SPAM ALERT Those machines are for home use, and not for leather, at ALL. Do some searching and reading here on the forum and you will start to see several machines stand out for the work you want to do. Many are advertised under the banners at the top of the page. Cowboy CB3200 and CB4500 Cobra class 3 and 4 Adler 205 series
  17. On most motors, I can squeeze a wrench on it if I temporarily remove one or two of the mounting screws that affix the motor in the housing.
  18. Oh, I know. Been there many times. Given the choice, I'd sooner ride a bike than drive through London.
  19. It's only like a 3 hour drive? Worth it. I've driven farther to pay more for a machine.
  20. No, no and NO. 335 will struggle with anything above 92 thread, and for $1k shipped it will probably be a clunker.
  21. Yep. The side with two flats on it for a wrench goes inbound toward the motor. If it becomes stupid hard to get a standard adjustable wrench on it so you can torque the locking nut on, it's on correctly.
  22. In the meantime: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/bainbridge--sail-palm-right-hand--P002_068_003_501
  23. That is a sweet machine, if you are sewing a blouse. Nowhere near what you need for leather.
  24. "-6" was the older designation for Juki machines with auto functions, mainly auto thread trimmer, auto backtack, etc. Now it's a "-7" designation.
  25. Have to ask... why isn't Techsew walking you through this?
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