MikePatterson

I watched the video then bought a 3000 got it on Tue. so far all is good. I quilted 5 layers of 7-8 oz skirting with out a hitch. Thanks Dave

skive the bottom blank just short of the bend and let the top blank bend over it. there is no reason to have the bend double ply.

nice chinks steve but i'm a little worried about your horse he may neet a little feed.!!!!!

looks like a pro to me!!! great job!!!

you look like you been doing it forever!!!! great job!!

a wise old man told me once. do the job cause you enjoy it !!! take the money cause you can. always made sense to me !!!!!! looks good Mike!!

the seat is just held up by the 1/2" rod and it slides from side to side depending on how large the project you are sewing is and you can use any of the three pedals depending on where you are sitting. Thanks Mike

I thought some of you would enjoy seeing my pride and joy, conversation piece of my shop. I bought this old machine back in the early 70's. From what I can find out about the machine it was built in the early 1900's. As you can see in the photos the machine still has the three pedals and the old tractor style seat as it came from the factory. It still has the wax pot attached although it has not been used in years since nylon thread. It is still powered manually and since it will easily sew through over 1 inch of heavy leather I have never wanted to put a motor on it. The machine has served me well for over 30 years and has been used daily and is still in use at this time. I have had to make a few parts as they have become very hard to find and anytime I could find parts I bought them and put them back in case I needed them later. The old machine has a awl that comes down from the top and punches a hole for the hook needle to come up through from the bottom. A lock stich is tied and the cycle repeats. I have several machines in the shop but when I need to get serious I get in the old tractor seat and start to pedal. If anyone can tell me anything about these old machines or would happen to have any parts please let me know.

is there something under the felt pad??? if so i would take that out and you may try a diffrent pad. just a thought. nice horse.

Very Nice !!! I like your style.

THANKS GUYS I'M JUST LEARNING!!!

Outstanding work HP you got my vote!!!

Sunday afternoon trying to finish of the last minute shoppers and I'm almost done, I think I might make it I only like a few more holsters for Santa to pick up.

What little buckaroooo wouldn't love it and it will last for his little pardners !!!! Looks great maybe he will buy you a Colt SA one day. Mike

I only line my holsters if I'm using a belt clip as I don't want to rub the gun against the clip. I agree concealed holsters don't need a lining after they are broken in the leather is smooth anyway.

Nice holster I really like the cant. Moulding looks good. Super choice in weapon I wear a PM9 16 hrs. a day very easy carry weapon. Later Mike

Thanks for asking these have all been sold.

After thinking about this if the saddle is not worth or the customer is not going to want to spring for new fenders, depending on how big the hole is this is what I would try. If you have a drive hole punch larger than the hole I would punch out the damage then with the same punch in a piece of leather of the same weight I would punch and save the punched piece as it should fit the hole. I would then line with a thin piece in the back glue well and with a two needle zig zag saddle stitch I would patch the hole. They are not going to care if the tooling matches if the saddle is not worth a bunch. If so tool it for them. Die it back and hand them a bill. Just my thoughts. Mike

Got into this once the customer had placed a battery on a shelf over the saddle for the winter then hooked a charger to the battery at some time the acid had dripped onto the fender and ate a hole like you are talking about. Being a very nice saddle the customer had no problem with new fenders.

New to the site but have met some really nice and helpful folks. I have ask so many questions I thought I would show some of my work I'm new to holsters my first one was less than a month ago. I have made a bunch in a short time and I think each is a little better. I still have a long way to go to catch up with most I have seen here but I'm trying. Thanks for all your help hope to meet more folks on this site. It has been really great to chat with each of you in the chat room. Hope one day I can answer some of your questions. Thanks to every one Mike.

JUST GOT MY STAMP DONE BY JEFF MOSBY AND IT IS JUST WHAT I WANTED. I SENT JEFF MY ART WORK AND WAS USING MY STAMP IN LESS THAN A WEEK. THANKS A BUNCH JEFF !!!! Grey Ghost Graphics

very nice holster. if i may ask how do you do the sponge mold you talked about. i use a vaccum machine i made and still bone the last 15 min. of drying. i have heard of the sponge press but not sure how it works. any info would be helpful. thanks mike mpatter2(at)bellsouth(dot)net

If hard is what you want why don't you just buy a 18.00 fobus to rub the finish off your gun. I want my leather holsters to not only be comfortable but easy on the finish of a fine weapon. I think a good holster is like a pair of jeans they get better with use. Enough of that just kinda hit a sore spot with this holster maker.

Thanks for your fast reply. I have owned a saddle shop/ gun shop now for over 30 years and all this time have done saddle and general leather repaire. I have a nice leather shop with all the tools and sewing machines you could want. In the last few months I got tired of my holster makers taking months to get a order togeather so I said I can do that I have all the tools how hard can it be.(HA) I'm having no trouble with orders and the customers really like my holsters they keep coming back for more I just can't get that pressed mold look that I keep trying for. I bought a couple of vaccum machines and they help but still not perfect I still do a lot of hand rubbing. What does the dish det. do I have heard of this but not tried it yet?? Any way one day I will post some of my stuff and maybe even get a question or too. I am new to this site and it is great!!!! Thanks again Mike.

Peter your work is outstanding!!!! If I may be so bold but I have to ask how to you get the mold you are getting on the Sig and the Kimber. Who cares about dying, edging or sewing !!! the form and fit is where the work and time is and you have it in a class of your on. How do you do it. Keep up the good work it is super. Thanks for any advise you can pass on !!! Mike