Michiel

Thanks, for your reply's. just Curiosity: does de race in the 366 als use thread, and are the race rings for extra? as far as i can see in the parts manual when they designd the 166 they thought it was enough to hold the race "on the thread "(sorry my english is not as good as i would like ) but on the 366 everything seems to be a little bit stronger...

In the adler 166 parts manual there are no race rings, but it seems my race (is it called so? ) to have the same part numbre (or is the six a five ?, hard to see on my copy

After giving it an other look i discoverd yesterday that my race (part 64 oo 205 0 on the expoloided vieuw) has thread on the outside so by turning it 360 degrees it moved to the needle. now the needle is in the middle of the neelde plate and the hook needle clearance is ok. this was the last adjustment i needed so now it sews like new. i changed the needlesystem to 7x23 bevause it has an longer scarf (and i already had a lot of needles in that system from an other 166) Because of of the stitchwide of 9mm or 10 mm it helps.

Thanks verry much Uwe and Constabulary, the needles are 328 (but always good to recheck) turning the needle bar did the trick the needle is now in the middle of the needle plate hole as i already expected (in some way) i now know why someone (maybe) put the machine the way it was: i now need to move the hook to the needle and need shims to fill the gap. i will see if i can find them or make them (and if not i can turn the neelde bar back again and try to move the needle plate) the machine is sewing but with its widest zigzag (9 mm) it skips sometimes a stitch on the left. i think it is more than the distance hook needle but start with that... thanks again your help is much appriciated !

thank you too! i use the needles which came with te machine (and where the machine is timed to) and i am almost sure they are the 328 system, but i will check them as soon i am at my workshop.

that's an interesting idea. thank you i will investigate...

Thanks, here are some more foto's i would like to hear how this is done with other older machines (with single feed), can you adjust the needle bar or do you move the needle plate (or is it not possible at all) ps the needle looks big but it is a normal size for this machine (i think this picture is with a 160 needle) it is clear you cannot shift the needle plate (in the original design, i can make it shift) but i really cannot find an eccentric bearing to turn.

Is there a way to upload more foto's (without starting another topic)? thanks anyway and apologies for my english...

Ok guys, i learned a lott by reading threads on this forum (and from service and part manuals) but now i have a mystery (to me ). i realise i have a rare sewing machine but maybe the old iron lovers on this forum have an opinion its an old adler 166 heavy zigzag machine. I bought it as an "project machine" but after cleaning and oiling its sews well and seams in a good condition for its age. It is stitching well and all the adjustments seems ok but one...: the needle is not in the middle off the needle hole but almost touching the backside of it. i only have an manuall for the adler 366. On that machine you can adjust the needlebar wirh an excentric bearing. I looked verry well but cannnot find one in this machine. Ther is one excentric bearing in the zigzag feed, but that one is for zigzag with adjustment. i examined the two bearings of the neeldebar but there is not a bearing i can reach without dismanteling i big part of the machine. the bearing on the part which moves sideways wen zigzag sewing (donot know how it is called) you van see on the left underside. it has twoo screes in stead of one so i thought maybe it was excentric. I succeed to turn it but it was not. So here is my questio: is it possible the needlebar of these old machines can not be adjusted (horizontal) after leaving factory? the needle plate cannot be shifted (as it is now) but i can aletr it to move a little backward. The needleplate is not worn, so the old sailmaker (i cannot ask) had a way to work around. my theory is that he bend his needles after installing them. i did this finaly and with the bend needle the distance between the hook en needle looks good (and it sews well) the other option is the machine changed in the years between h stopped sewing and the moment i bought it but that doesnot make sence to me (when cleaning and oiling i did not get the machine apart or changed other adjustments.) I will try to post more pictures but i cannot downsize them on my ipad and am alowed to upload only 1,4 mb hope for some opinions, regards, michiel

In my search for a good used industrial. sewing machine with zigzag i found this list verry useful http://www.voiles-alternatives.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=343 its in french but the list and photo's are clear (and you always can use google translate) regards, michiel

I started with a pfaff 138 for canvas pvc and sometimes leather. it was strong (compared with house hold machines) but the feed was limited (i believe it was not sold for other than light work) But since i wanted a zigzag it was hard to find a better sewing machine. at the and i decided i needed a real sailmakers machine: an adler 98 for light and medium heavy work or an adler 166 for heavy work (it was hard too choose so at the end i bought both) Both are hard to find but exelent machines (and sold for leather) the most important differeence between my pfaff 138 and adler 98 is the feed. also only bottum feed but much wider and stronger. (i love this forum and learned a lott by reading al the posts, but normaly do not feel a have to ad much, so this is my first post) michiel http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Leaflets_Adler/Leaflet_Adler_Class_166.pdf