kgg

I finally got tired of doing calculations in my head when trying to find the centre of something. Since I was taught, trained and worked in the Imperial and US systems until Canada converted supposedly to the Metric system. Normally the Imperial system is my go to for everyday type measurements. So I finally broke down and bought a 12" centre finding ruler sometimes called a doubling ruler. The ruler: i) Imperial measurements up to 12" or a you can get a larger 24" version ii) Two scales. A measuring scale and a centre point scale iii) Material: Tempered Stainless Steel iv) Sold by US Tape Company (https://www.ustape.com/product/centerpoint-straight-edge-rulers/) v) Made in China vi) patent number: 5,251,382 which is for a tape measure not a ruler???? vii) Status: Expired - Lifetime viii) Cost: I paid $18.90 CAD plus tax for total of $21.35 CAD ( $15.35 ) from Lee Valley This is a very simple design. You just measure the item say 8 1/4" and find 8 1/4" on the bottom scale and that is the centerpoint location. Anyone with a laser or 3d printer could easily make one. To bad they don't have a metric version for better accuracy. kgg

Servo motors: You can use either a brushed or brushless servo motor on any industrial sewing machine and it is a straight swap out as the mounting hole pattern is the same. You may have to move the "go" pedal slightly to the left or right. You can buy from a vendor or from Amazon / Temu / Ebay but you are not limited to the dealer should you want / have to change the motor. Brushless servo motors come in typically three puke flavours. Cheap ones have 6 internal coils for the servo motor, mid grade have 9 internal coils and the better ones have 12 internal coils typical wattage ratings of 1/2 hp to 1 hp. The more internal coils the better. Brushed servo motors are simpler to repair with no computer controls, longer lasting with typical wattage ratings of 1/2 hp to 1 hp so less frustration. kgg

Carefully and with two people. The strongest one on the heavy end. I would suggest making another table and avoid swapping them back and forth??? kgg

I'm glad the you got it freed up. As far as I'm concerned there's nothing better then good old fashion Diesel. It works better then any of the "penetrating oils" just smells a bit. I would now flush/soak the area with synthetic transmission fluid. That will soak in and flush out the old garbage while lubing. Sorry, can't help with the amount of movement you should have. kgg

Thank you. Looks uncomfortable but I have never worn one that way, always worn one on the outside. kgg

Maybe a vise and a couple of boards. kgg

I am going to ask two dumb. Why are the clips on the front of the holster and how does it attach to your belt??? kgg

I have had great success with diesel and so so with penetrating oils. Once you give it a go with synthetic transmission oil the smell usually is gone. Another suggestion is to use heat like from a heat gun or propane touch and when it is hot hit it with oil for a fast cool down. That may free it. kgg

I would get a wire brush and scrap all round the unit particularly around the feed eccentric seam and then add a few drops of good old fashion diesel around the feed eccentric seam. Wait about 24 hours to let it soak in, a few light tabs with a hammer and without any needle or bobbin run it at different speeds for a few minutes. If it hasn't freed up start over with a few more drops of diesel. Once freed oil the heck out of it with some synthetic transmission oil. If you can't get it freed like @CowboyBob has suggest replace the unit. kgg

Have you tried unpluging the servo motor cord from the wall outlet. Some electronic items even through you have the power switch in the "OFF" position they are still drawing power and are basically in a "Sleep Mode". I would unplug and wait a few minutes just to make sure it has fully powered down and cleared it's memory. On my LS-341 clone which has a brushless servo motor and electronic control when I throw the power switch to the "OFF" position the electronic display stays light for about a minute before going blank. So there is a power draw. I would contact both the store and Artisan to clarify your warranty. Having a damaged cable could have or is causing a short which in turn could have caused an error or worst case fried the controller. If you damaged the wiring chances are you are going to be on the hook for a new cable and possibly a controller. If it does turn out to be the controller unit it maybe cheaper just to replace the complete motor setup for about $150 to $200 for 6 coil motor or $300 for a 12 coil motor or a brushed servo motor for about $175. The trouble you are having tracing the source of the problem highlights the difference between a brushed servo motor with no fancy electronics and a brushless servo motor with a electronic controller box. As you can tell I am not a fan of the brushless servo motors. I like my machines to be as simple as possible. Sewing machine, speed reducer (on some), servo motor, drive belt(s) and a go pedal. The two machines with brushless servo motors have the needle positioning disconnected. kgg

Rather then you fiddling with a new machine be it a demo unit I would go bring back the machine to the seller and ask them why the 794 needles don't fit and have them correct the problem. kgg

According to their manual Page 13 THREAD SPECIFICATIONS: Breaking down what "794s Serv 1 230 ...... SM 53-5 " means i) the 794s Serv 1 denotes the needle has a chisel point tip made for leather sewing ii) the 230 denotes the size of needle. Here is a good reference chart for the thread size vs the needle size needed ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) iii) the SM 53-5 is the Tippmann Boss part number for the needle. You can order these directly from Tippmann using their part number or from other vendors just by specing the needle system, needle size and shape of the tip of the needle. The needle system (794) denotes the length of the needle. All 794 will be the same length. Are all the needles the same length when you put them side by side?? It maybe as simple as you don't have the screw holding the needle backed off far enough. Otherwise I would call Tippmann. kgg

I'm not a moderator just your average joe user and probably a pain in the butt at times. I wholeheartedly appreciate the work and effort that all the moderators do to help keep the rest of us on track and this forum running. You really need to rethink what you said and your tone. It really doesn't do you any favours and may come back to haunt you in the future should you decide to stay when you do need help. Have a nice day. kgg

nicely done. kgg

Have you thought of using Chicago screws as you can get them in various sizes (diameter and length). Like @fredk I would be more concerned with using AL but then again I have had Copper rivets turn green. kgg