kgg

Are you sure, me thinks you are an addict... just one more machine, just one more attachment. kgg

Just to add another twist to the conversion. If hardness of the burnish wheel is an important factor what would the drawback or pro's to using a metal burnishing wheel with machines grooves like the wooden ones??? Steel, Aluminum, Brass kgg

It is an attachment for plinking. Here is a link outlining it. ( https://www.ebay.ca/itm/351741810267 ) kgg

What size and type of thread are you using?? How thick of leather are you trying on sewing??? What size of needle are you using??? kgg

The .8mm thread size is roughly equal to V554 thread so there is really only the Juki TSC -441 and clones along with the one armed bandits that can come close to that thread size. As a comparison V138 thread is about .4mm. If thread size is a main factor the machines you highlighted will not work. kgg

I am not sure but that thread I think is just polyester not bonded so it may give you some problems related to like lint buildup. I would recommend: i) Purchase the 1lb spools of whatever thread you decide to purchase it will give you less spring back / coiling problems then the smaller 8 / 4 / 2 ounce sizes. ii) Purchasing two 1lb spools that way you can have one spool for winding bobbins as you sew and the other one for the top thread. That way you don't need to un-thread the machine just to wind a bobbin. Some like what I done with my Juki DNU-1541S. iii) Use bonded polyester or bonded nylon thread from a brand name manufacturer rather then the cheap Chinese stuff. kgg

When I clicked on the link you supplied it appears as the correct needle for a system 135x16 needle for a size 110 needle. The size 110 is for V69 (40 metric) thread. What size of needle did you order for what size of thread you are planning on using? Also what is the thickness of leather you are planning on sewing? kgg

Here is a screen shot of the spec for the Juki DNU-1541 series: My understanding is the system 135x8 is not designed for walking foot machines made for drop feed machines. It is a slightly shorter needle which may require you to adjust the needle bar as well the hook to the needle timing. Needle selection reference: The Thread Exchange by Juki model ( https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=needle-systems-juki ) The equivalent to a system 135 needle for leather, 135x16, is the DPx16 and 135x1 NRTW. The equivalent to a system 135 needle for fabric, 135x17, is the MR, 3355 MR, DPx1 MR, DPx17 Why not use the correct system needles recommended by the manufacturer, needles are cheap and save yourself the problems / headaches associated with other then recommended needles. kgg

No, do NOT use a system 134 needle for the Juki DNU -1541 and Juki DNU-1541S they are made and setup for a system 135 x 17 x (needle size) for fabric or 135 x 16 x (needle size) for leather, check you manual. Here is a good reference chart for needle size vs thread size. ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). I would also suggest: i) reducing the presser foot pressure as it appears the pressure foot is imprinting the leather needle plate hole into the leather. ii) increase the bobbin tension using the drop method of setting the bobbin tension. kgg

I will PM you.

Photo 1: i) Tells me it was used in a factory setting with little or no maintenance, the timing belt is cracked and is on it's last legs. The machine needs to be properly flushed out to remove any debris so it can be determined what else needs or potentially needs to be replaced. ii) missing presser foot lifting mechanism iii) missing base gasket and cylinder arm oil drain cotton cord Photo 2: i) Tells me someone replaced the main tension assembly and possibly the bobbin winder. ii) Top thread guide pin missing Photo 3: Shows a lot of discoloration / wear on the nose. Photo 4: i) Missing chrome cover plate on the front of the head that covers the lifting mechanism. ii) In the background of the fourth photo I did notice a second Juki LS-1341 on a dolly. My bad mind tells me this is a fresh off the boat from an overseas factory setting and shipped in. Did you ask where the machine came from? Personally I don't recommend buying an ex factory machine. EX factory machines are gotten rid of for a reason unless you are prepared to do any possible repairs yourself and the price is dirt cheap. I would suggest you keep looking buying a good used machine from a hobbyist or buy a new clone from a reputable dealer. Some others maybe better able to suggest a dealer close to you but you have not included your location. kgg

I do use V138 in my Juki DU-1181N and have it for thinner stuff as my Juki DNU-1541S hates thinner stuff. A thing to remember is how Juki rates their machines. Thread wise they rate their machines on what that model of machine can handle in both the needle and in the bobbin at the max rated sewing thickness NOT what the max size of thread can be stuffed through the max rated needle size it can handle in the needle bar. The Juki DU-1181N is rated for V92 thread and can handle a #23 needle which is rated for V138 thread. Some clones might be temped to rate the machine for V138. You are right a compound feed should be better. kgg

My take: In a flatbed the 3/8" thickness generally is under ideal conditions. If you are at or close I think you need to move to a cylinder arm machine with a flatbed attachment in the Class 341 / 1341 machines. You are probably going to find that using V46 thread could be a chore as the needles typically for system 135 x 16 for that size of thread are thin and will have a tendency to bend / break. I would suggest probably consider using V69 as a bottom end thread size in thin stuff. This style of servo motor is becoming popular but choose one with at least 9 internal coils. The more internal coils the better the starting speed and torque characteristics. With the brushless servo motors this feature is usually included. You can try it and decide if you like that feature. Some like it others not so much. In my opinion this is a poor twice removed cousin of a Juki DNU-1541S. I recently had a Consew 206RB-5 that was intended to replace my walking foot Juki DU-1181N. I kept the Juki DU-1181N and got rid of the Consew 206RB-5. The older ones were made in Japan and the new ones ?????? There a lot of decent flatbed Juki DNU-1541S clones available just like there are a lot of cylinder arm Juki LS-341 clones. If possible take a sample of your stuff and test drive some machines to see what best fits your needs, budget and choose a vendor with a good after sales reputation. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

I agree and it also depends on the ability / experience of the person doing the repair. kgg

If you are pleased with the Juki DDL 8300 for light items and your Consew 206. Are you planning on replacing the Consew 206 as the Juki DNU-1541S is a far superior machine then the Consew 206? I also should say my Juki DNU-1541S does not like thinner items and can have a tendency to suck those items down into the needle plate/ feed dog that is why I have a Juki DU-1181N for thinner items. kgg