kgg

If I am keeping for myself I buy mostly new but occasionally near new machines. Based on my experience if it's a Consew or PFAFF they are going to be hard to resell down the road and you have to almost give them away.

The size 23 /160 needle is only good for V138 max so changing the needle up to #24 or a #25. However this maybe difficult as the 767 is only rated for a 134-35 #22/140 needle as per the spec. which means it is only rated for a take V138 in thin stuff or V92 in thicker /tougher stuff. The reference I used was the Duerkopp Alder manual located on page 8 ( https://partner.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/public/767/B_767_EN.pdf ). kgg

For the last six months in Ontario there have been very few used industrial sewing machines for sale and most of what's around looks like they were rode hard and put away wet. The cheapest prices are for the Consew and PFAFF machines as both have always been hard to sell at any price irregardless of condition or age. The ones that sell fast are the older Juki's and Singer's but are commanding a premium prices if in fairly decent shape. Then you have the portable walking foot machines like Sailrites / Sailrite clones and those are the easiest / fastest selling. kgg

The Consew 277RB-1 is about $3000 USD or $4400 CAD plus by the time the main dealer in Ontario adds other cost it probably would top out at around $5500 plus tax so the finial price would be $6200. For that price he could get a brand new Juki. kgg

Sorry to hear about your hospital stay. Wish you and everyone a Merry Christmas and a happy new year. kgg

The Consew T-1919 is just another knockoff portable walking foot sewing machine of the Sailrite LS. You can get either a Reliable Barracuda ( $779 CAD) with zig zag or a KOBE LSZ-1 with zig zag for about $500 CAD. Over the years I have owned the Sailrite, the Barracuda and the KOBE. The last one was a Sailrite LSZ-1 and it had their new "servo" motor and may have been slightly better build quality then the KOBE ???? I would not recommend any of the portable walking machines regardless of price but I can assure you you will not be pleased with either of them as first / only machine for leather. The main drawback is that the machine will have a small "G" bobbin. If the machine is in good condition with a servo motor in Ontario it usually goes for about $600 to $700 CAD. If you have to replace the old style clutch motor with a servo motor to get speed control then add to whatever price you pay an additional $150 -$200 CAD to the price. kgg

Yes machines can be expensive but: i) look at finding a good use cylinder arm machine that will sew the thickness of the material you make the bags out of. ii) look at one of the one armed bandits which range in cost new from $1000 USD ($1430 CAD) up like the Tippman Boss or the Cowboy Outlaw. Don't waste your money on the the Chinese patcher as they are just frustration generators. iii) the time saving would allow you make the same bag in a 1/10th or less of the time it took to hand sew with a lot less strain on the hands. kgg

I have never install one myself so I just watch a video of installing conchos ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NL-eW6DkCEk ). I am going to assume your concho's stem is also threaded so it is just a matter of finding the correct size screw for attachment. I would use a nut / screw thread gauge to determine the size needed. For the most common sizes I find the Chinese nut / screw gauge similar to ( https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007315188557.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.21.79e3ZdnIZdnIxM&algo_pvid=1aca4878-402f-4f94-9b21-d996454393f2&algo_exp_id=1aca4878-402f-4f94-9b21-d996454393f2-10&pdp_npi=4%40dis!CAD!23.62!12.99!!!16.13!8.87!%402103244817345326557723276e6b56!12000040228337903!sea!CA!3463193163!X&curPageLogUid=8y7oEuQnLAr1&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A ) are good enough. If the conchos were made in the US then you will probably be looking at Imperial sizes. If they were made elsewhere chances are you are looking at metric sizes. From the photo it looks like a screw in the 3mil range which is about 1/8" would work.If you don't have a thread gauge take a concho to some hardware store as most have a gauge by the nuts and bolt display. kgg

Nicely done. My only suggestion would be sew a seam about 1/4" in from the edges with V138 thread not so much for adding strength but to help reduce deforming caused by stretching. kgg

Beside what @Northmount has suggested I would move up to a #20 or #21 needle. I think that the thread is being caught by the canvas and there also maybe a very slight build up of wax on the thread which maybe adding to the problem. The canvas maybe being drawn down into the feed dog hole which can cause problems if that is the case you may have to put a piece of regular writing paper on the feed dog side and tear it off after. Even though canvas is a fabric sometimes you may have to go with a leather point needle so I would do a test seam and see if that solves the problem. Also what stitch length on your seam are you trying????? kgg

I do think from what I have seen and heard Sailrite provides good service, good manuals and lots of video's. I just recently sold both a Sailrite LSZ-1 portable walking foot with their new servo motor and a Chinese Clone LSZ-1 portable walking foot with just a 90 watt domestic motor. The Chinese Clone costs about $500 CAD whereas the Sailrite costs about $2500 CAD when you take into account shipping from the USA / duty /exchange rate /etc. The quality of parts appeared to be better but $2000 CAD better??? Based on my own experience if I ever need another portable walking foot for whatever reason I would not bother with another Sailrite. kgg

What system of needle are you using 135 x16x#18 (leather) or 135 x17x#18 (fabric). Should be a 135x16 x18. Have you tried a larger needle size as a #18 is really meant for Tex 70. here is a link to a good chart of needle sizes verses thread size, https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html . Like @DieselTech has said going from one type of leather to another probably will require tension adjustments do to the toughness of the leather. kgg

@dikman it is Spanish and says: You have to turn on the controller with the "P" key, nothing, there you access the programming commands. Then you continue pressing "P" until the letters SL (speed low) appear, then you press P again and 16 appears, there with the button below P you can vary the number up to 03 as slow as possible then you return to Turn off the controller until all indicators turn off. Then turn it on again and check the speed. painteramirezdaniel@gmail.com kgg

I think that a properly sized thread and a sensible stitch length would actually strengthen and increase the life of a belt. My Thoughts are: i) A 5 or 6 spi stitch line along the outer edges about 3/16 or 1/4" inch in from the edge would add strength and help prevent the belt from deforming. A decorative pattern in the center of the belt would also increase the strength and help prevent deforming. @Dwight posted a very nice photo of a belt that is about 15 oz that has both edge and a decorative pattern that is 20 plus years old. ii) Proper thread sizing in combination with a correctly sized needle for what the belts intended use needs to be selected. An example would be V138 has a breaking strength of 22lbs while V207 has a breaking strength of 32 and V277 breaks at about 45 lbs. iii) Thread maybe an important factor as the strength of the leather has many factors that contribute to the quality / strength of the leather. Is it Veg Tan or Chrome Tan, the dyeing process, the actual location it came from on the animal (shoulder, stomach, butt, etc) and the tanning company doing the actual tanning process. kgg

Na, just add a set of suspenders. kgg