BondoBobCustomSaddles

Bevan, it is obvious by the pics that your art is in your braiding. Very, very, nice work! Since I use only a bosal on my own personal horse, I would love to graduate to something as beautiful as the ones that you make. Again, very, very nice! Bondo Bob

Thank's all for the kind words. I like to do this kind of work just because it makes me feel good, but; it is always nice to hear that people like what you do. As for how long it took, I really can't say cause' like I said, I built this one a piece at a time, when I had a few moments, with no set dead line. I started on it about a year and a half ago, but; without an owner waiting for it, I just kind of putzed along. If I were to build one like it for a customer, it would take about 8 to 10 weeks for a tree to be made (all of them are custom made to order), then about 4 months to build and tool one like this. I usually do just one at a time, cause' that's the way the market is up here in Michigan. Not a lot of people that know what they really want/need, and are willing to pay for it. Storm, the finish is basic. I started with a coat of pure neetsfoot oil after tooling, then a coat of Fieblings oil die saddle tan. After it dryed, I used a coat of neatlac, on my fingertip to resist the high areas, once that was dry, I then put a coat of antique, after which I finished it off with neatlac, and polished with a piece of sheep skin. The edges were done the same way that Bob Parks has in his link. Once again, thanks for the kind words. Bondo Bob

Well, here are some more and slightly better pics. Comments are welcome, as long as they are not about my picture taking and/or camera equipment. Pics are not my long suit. Oh, here comes the sun, of course after I took the pics. Guess the weather isn't my long suit either! Bondo Bob

CW, without seeing and "feeling" it I have to guess here. I am guessing that you are using a substantially thick piece of leather here. This will make it difficult. Sometimes when I am having problems with something like this, not just in this area, but in other areas also, I will turn the piece over and skive the the thickness down to a manageable amount in the local area. In the case of the swells, up around the area where you are going to punch it, I would estimate the approximate area of the punch, and using that as a starting point, skive the leather to about 7-8 oz thickness in a circular patch out to about a 1"-2"radius, feathering it as you go. That works for me, I would take that piece that you are not happy with first and practice on that to see if it will work for you. Hope that helps. Bob

Ok, here is the second try at this post. The only thing worse than the pics is this computer! Anyway, I will try to get some better pics as soon as it becomes day light out and I can try to take some pics in natural daylight. Pictured here is my version of the John Wayne tribute saddle. When I saw the one that Circle Y did, I felt it was too commercial, so I decided to make one myself. I have been working on this one in the part time when I have a moment, which is why it took me so long. Things different about this one is, first I didn't go for all that fluff with characterizations of JW, and plaques and so on. What I built is based off of what I saw in the Circle Y saddle, and is true to the style about the turn of the century, with large flower ornate carving, plate rigging, bowman style tree, medium rise cantle, and so on. This saddle also has a set of brass wear plates on the front rigging that actually are 100 years old. Came from a worn out, broken saddle of that era. Also, in keeping with the tribute idea, I named it "Old Dollar" after the horse that Duke rode in his last movie "The Shootist", the conchos are morgan silver dollar conchos, and it is tooled into the back of the cantle. I decided that I better get some pics of it before it is gone. There is already a woman interested and it is not even done, I still have to do that stirrups, and rear cinch strap. I was originally going to put a rope strap and 60' rawhide reata on it, but; the woman that is currently sniffing around it doesn't want that. At any rate here it is. Hope you approve! Bondo Bob

CW, there is a very detailed explanation of how to do welts, both folded and flat in Vol # 3 of the Stohlman Encyclopedia of Saddlemaking. I know they are not cheap, mine were just under $100 for all three back then, however; even at the current price, the information is not only envaluable, but, will save you from slaughtering your whole heard to get the job done. I have built many saddles, and I would be a lyar if I I said that I never look at these books. I always look at them on each saddle. You never know what you can learn, and I always seem to pick up something from them every time I open one. I just wish they had a book on how to rebind them. Mine are getting worn out. Bondo Bob

Like Bruce and JW, I use all of the above. I like to use the tacks during construction because when not fully seated, they will hold well yet pull out easily when I take the piece off for adjustment or whatever. Most guys probably assemble and dis-assemble many times before they are done. At the end I do like stainless, for final. Bob

Ross, when you take the time to do good work with pride, you deserve to have good results! Keep up the good work! Bob

Bruce, first I want to say I am sorry for your loss. Then I would add, the most fulfilling work I have ever done, is when it is done out of love. In this case your love for your friend makes this special. It has been said that it is not who you know that counts, but; rather who will say they were glad to know you! I am sure that is how you feel about your friend, along with many others. It is your gift to him that allows us all to know him through you. Thank you for sharing! Bondo Bob

Hey Mike! I am also a vet, US Navy 65-69. I was recently coming back across the border from Canada after a business trip and the U.S. border guard said the same thing to me. Like you, I also was taken by surprise, and could barely respond. Things sure are different today, unlike back then. Welcome back! Bondo Bob

I know that I haven't posted in a while , cause I have been so busy, however; my Grandaughters were over last night and we gave them their new show chaps that I made to match their new show shirts. I just had to post these! They are made of 1 1/2 oz glove leather, so thin and soft that I reinforced them I all the stress areas and added wear patches in the inside knee thigh area. Can't wait to see them in the show arena this year.

Denise, some time ago, I gave that some thought and after considering the two, I came to this opinion, (remember opinions are like belly buttons, everybody has one!) If I use premium quality leather like Wickett and Craig, I get more out of it. I basically can almost make a complete saddle out of 2 hides , not counting the stuff I make out of latigo, and the 10 oz. hide I have sitting around that I use for specific areas of a saddle, because it comes with no range marks, scars, brands and so on. Also, a good premium supplier , there a lot of them out there, I just happen to like W&C personally, will have their sides well inspected so that they are evenly gaged, and consistant throughout. No hard spots and so on. That will give you a good yield of usable leather. So if you pay say $150- $200 for a side of the good stuff, you will almost get as much usable leather as you get from three economy sides, because you will often find your self cutting around those brands, scars and areas that are either varying too much in thickness or have hardspots in them and cause you a lot of extra work and time to make a decent piece. And, by the way if you are the type that wants their product to be astetically pleasing,and be proud of your work (all the guys who I have seen on this sight do!) then consistancy is the only game in town. You might be able to save a $100 or so by using the cheap stuff, but; at the cost of your time and effort. Bondo Bob

I don't have a lot of machines, and I don't even wanna know! Bondo Bob

Well, I'm not THAT old, but; seems like Luke is, so I'll go along with him, he must have been there! Bondo Bob

Denise, I won't even start a saddle unless I get $1,000 up front. That is with an allowance of $250 for a tree. If they want a better tree than Bowdens, the price goes up commensorate with the tree they pick. I usually use 2 full sides of Wickett and Craig Skirting leather ($300), a jumbo sheep skin ($75), Hardware and stirrups ($150), ($25) for latigo leather, misc. items like glue, stain, stitching thread, oil, tacs, and screws,rivets, ect.($100), conchos $100), And of course as they add on goodies like extra silver and so on the price escalates. My base saddles are now $2400. That leaves $1400 for labor, and if I charged a real wage for the time spent actually working on makeing the saddle, the price would be much higher, but; the market here just won't bear that. Bondo Bob

OK, here comes my $.02. Actually there a lot of good comments for all the styles, and all have their good and bad points, so, what I try to do is taylor the style I use to the need of the individual that I am making the saddle for. For instance if it is a cutting saddle and the guy is really "into it", I will recomend that I use lacing, because it will give him little weight, good strength, and maximum flexability with virtually now "bunching under the fender" on the stirrup leathers/fenders combo. A calfroper will get vertical blevins with a rawhide strip sewn in on the back side and "full leathers" rather than 1/2 leathers for maximum strength, and a pleasure saddle will get 1/2 leathers with vertical blevins and so on. Of course, my saddles are custom made so what the customer wants (i.e. custom) is what the customer gets, as long as it is safe. I think there is no correct answer here, just a lot of points of view to use to make your decision. Bondo Bob

Leatherhead, I am surprised at all the comments here thath would cut this guy off at the knees, especially since so many post here with help and suggestions. I wasn't going to post, but; what the hell! From my prospective, we all have to have learned from somebody. Whether we simply appreciate others work or actually learned from someone. Many of us are self taught, and others were lucky enough to study under masters from ths past, but; we had to get the idea from somewhere. At the end of the day, he will rise to the level of his own competance, with or without your help. The most satisfying feeling is to watch a student surpass the teacher, especially if it is your student. Bondo Bob

Morning Bob, I usually like to try to spend a few minutes each day over coffee and look at this sight. Way better than reading the paper! Anyway, one of the things that I really enjoy is looking at the amazing work that is posted here by some of the artists. Whenever I see your name on a post, I make it a point to open it and look at it, that is because it is usually where I get new ideas, or new twists on things that I am already doing. I love to look at your work, along with some of the others. This piece is, as always, well thought out and very pleasing to the eye. Then add the exceptional workmanship, and you have what we all aspire to do. Great Job! Bondo Bob

Larry, you are correct in pegging it as mold. This is not uncommon. One thing that will help is to be sure that you use new clean plastic bags when you case your leather. Reusing the same bags over again will promote mold, because you can almost never get all the old moisture out and the mold will be already "in the bag" before you put your piece in it. Sometimes it happens even if you just wet your leather and let it sit in the open air. As for that mold and other black marks that appear as a result of metal and wet leather contact such as tacks used to hold a piece down while drying, can be removed by the use of oxcilic acid. Not sure if I spelled it right. Not even sure where you are going to get it, maybe a pharmacy, or chemical warehouse. I have had a jar of it so long, I don't even remember where I got it. It dosen't take much, just use the directions on the jar, or read up on it in the Stohlman Saddle Making Encyclopedias. It does work, and I have used it for years. Bondo Bob

Ross, first off, I would not say that you are not a "Sheridan Carver", your work seems to meet the idea of design as I understand it, it flows and is very pleasing to look at. Next, if I understand your use of chubby, I think (only my guess here), that you mean your vines are too thick or seem to be "bushy". Only a suggestion here but; if you break down your pattern into segments, and attack each segment individually, you may find that as your vine goes around the flower segment, you might want to remove 2 or 3 of the leafs per segment and allow for a little more backgrounding to show through. Mind you this is only a suggestion to the question you asked, not a critisizm. Your work is, well, the way JW put it in Rooster Cogburn, " being around it pleases me!" Hope that my ideas help. Love Your Work! Bondo Bob

Very Nice! I can't see it very good though, why don't you send it up here to Michigan, so I can get a close up look at it? ;D Bondo Bob

I have one that I made using the instructions from the Stohlman's Encyclopedia. I have been using it for more years than I care to count, and it has served me well. If you are a tinker-er, making one like it with additional improvements to suit your needs, is a good way to go. A good solid base is a must, and being able to clamp/afix a tree to it in a manner that allows you to use the tilt/swivel feature is a must. Bondo Bob

OK, come on now, I've been reading the posts, certainly somebody out there is older than 65!!! Ain't there? Huh? Bob

All the replys above are spot on. They attest to the diverse scope of what you can do and where you can make some dinero. I will add one thing that I recently got into, and while it is not what I really like to do, it sure helps pay the bills while I putz at what I really like (making saddles). That is the tack repair business at the local race track. I had the luck to be where they opened up a new race track, and by chance I got a call to do some repairs on an excersize saddle for one of the trainers there. What I found out was that there was no one there and they really needed someone. During the racing season, there are anywhere from 600 to 1200 horses housed and trained there. That many horses tear up a lot of stuff. The trick for me was that I realized that the trainers and workman there are too busy to stop and bring you tack everytime they break something. They will find some way to tie it together, or throw it in a tack box and it will stay there till they throw it out, however; if you go to them, which I did ( I actually take a wheel barrel and go through all the barns. They load me up when they find out they don't have to do anything other than reach in the box and give it to you), they will clean out that tack box and pay fair prices to get it fixed and returned to them . That way they don't have to take the time to go to the tack store to get stuff replaced. The key is to remember, these are people that need their stuff to make their living, and it is a service that you provide that helps them do that. This has really worked for me, they keep me busy full time from May to October, and now I am getting work from them that spills past the racing season. A word of caution, make sure all your customers know that it is a cash on the barrelhead business. "No tickey no washy". If your work is good quality, you will also find yourself making a lot of belts, chaps and leggins for the excersize riders. This worked for me. Good Luck, Bondo Bobs Custom Saddles

The first time I talked to Ann Stohlman on the phone, she asked me how old I was. At that time I was 51. Her comment was and I quote "your just a kid!". That was 14 years ago. I learned something that day. Since that time I have tried to live up to that, seems like it's a lot more fun to be old on the outside, but; a kid on the inside. Bonbo Bob