BondoBobCustomSaddles

Welcome to the forum. Always good to have new members/friends! Also, Thank You for your service! Bondo Bob

Most generally I use 6 stitches per inch. I switch to 7 when I am working on something that requires it, however; 6 seems to be the norm. Bob

Congrats JW! Now comes the best part, God's reward for not killing our kids while they were growing up.......Grand Kids! I am sure that is a little early thinking, but; I have 8 and they are the joy of a Grampa's life! Congrats again! Bob

Without question, that is the type of work we all aspire to. Please continue to post pics of all of your work, it gives us inspiration. Very very nice! Bondo Bob

Grampa Joel, back when I started, I first bought a set of the Al Stohlman books. I found them to be invaluable, not only because they told how to make saddles, but; also gave you the insight as to what tools you would need and how to use them, patterns, and the other items you need, such as draw down stand, jigs and so on. They also instruct you how to make the items you need to get started. You will of course add to the list after you get started, but; to date this is the most informative and comprehensive set of details on how to get started I have seen. I am sure there are many more, but; once I got started with these, I never found the need for any others. Hope that helps. Bondo Bob

As always, nice work Steve. Yea, we know about the economy hitting hard. Up here in Michigan, as nice as that saddle is, and with all the work you have in it, it still would only bring about $3,000 up here. People are just trying to survive, and horse gear like everything else has suffered, It's crazy, but; it is what it is. Here's hoping the country get's back on track. Bondo Bob

Nicely executed. Looks like the kind of rig that will catch eyes no matter where it is used. Bondo Bob

Nice job in redoing that saddle. When you start working on saddles it is kind of addictive isn't it? Any way, glad to see you are taking the next step, and I am sure you will find it rewarding, especially when you see your work being used and appreciated. Welcome to the club ! Bondo Bob

Great stuff Steve. Very nice! Bob

Very nice Bruce. I really like all of them, but; I especially like the last and how you created a circle with the silver flower buds and the rest of the pattern "grew" around it. Nicely done. Bondo Bob

JW, really really nice rig. I like the way you blend your lines so they run together (rear jockey to front jockey, parallel edges of jockeys to skirt and so on) and the look as if it grew that way. That was something I learned from an old timer 40 years when I was making custom gunstocks. Old Pete had this thing about everything being natural looking, as if you could just reach up and pick it off the tree cause Mother Nature just grew it that way. Like your saddles, front jockeys and rear jockeys in line, and jockeys and skirt edges clean and parallel and so on. All together, really really nice. It's the kind of result I strive for in my work. Bondo Bob

Congrats Steve. The time you've spent is reflected in your work. We are all lucky to have you still kickin around and helping. Congrats once again, and hope you are still around when I get to my thirty eighth (about 19 or so from now). Bondo Bob

There is some stuff in the local hardware you will find in the household cleaning section call appropriately "Green Stuff". It is, you guessed it, green liquid cleaner, I have had real good success with it. Bondo Bob

Dirt Clod, guess I didn't make it clear enough. I use D W screws in place of the tacks that I have to keep putting in and taking out during the construction of the saddle. At the end, for final assembly I do use stainless. Bondo Bob

OK, for my two cents. I have never used the dextrin. I do use rubber contact cement almost exclusively. I sometimes use 3M Super 77 on some leather projects, but; that's another story. When re-fleecing a saddle, I only use sheep skin, and as for the pockets vs the lugs, I personally use lugs when I can, and only re-pocket a saddle if it is at the customers request. Most generally, I leave the rigging in place unless it requires replacing. Now then, for ring shank nails, I don't use them, in fact I have started to use less and less of the blue tacks also. On the last two saddles I took to using #6 X 1" drywall screws in place of where I normally would use blue tacks that I have to keep putting in half way and then removing (never counted, but; I wouldn't be surprised if we assemble and take apart a saddle 100 times during fitting of pieces and construction)and in place of ring shank nails. They hold better, I believe they are stronger, and most importantly, they can be put in and taken out numorous times easily with out accidently making marks on the leather. I would be interested if I am the only one doing that or what you guys think of the dry-wall screws idea. Bondo Bob

Well done! I echo Darc's comments, and also like my jocky's rounded more in the front. All in all very nice. What do you use for resist when you are antiqueing? Bondo Bob

All good information, especially from Darc. you might also want to try a Bisonette edger, they also come in different sizes. I use a #4 to edge the leathers of a horn when I am finishing off an installation. It gives you the result you are looking for, a nice rounded edge. Of course, you still need to do some burnishing to get that professional finish. Bondo Bob

Try Feiblings Pro Oil Dye in your sequence. It's all I use. Eveery time I stray from it, I am not satisfied with the results. Bondo Bob

Elton, exceptional work. She'll be proud to wear those. I like the belt especially, I am doing some chaps for a couple of excercise riders at the track as of this writing, and if you don't mind would like to do a take off of the belt design for them. Bondo Bob

As always Elton, first rate! Bob

Bevan, not too sure what thickness you can get Roo in, if memory serves me, I got some in 2 to 2 1/2oz, and I made a set of chinks for a guy up here out of Roo I got from Weaver quite a few years back. There was a cutting horse guy that wanted something different , that nobody else had. He also wanted them light and thin because durring the cutting season up here the temps get into the 90's quite often and all the other guys would only put their chaps on when they went into the arena to cut a cow. Once he got his, he loved them and wore them all day! He said that they were great and he hardly know that he had them on. Lots of folks since have wanted some, but; they balk at the price. Roo is expensive, however; they make a really, really nice pair of chinks, that will be admired by all. I actually used 2 hides to get the job done. Once they wore in a little, they took on a mellow orange/tan color that really made them stand out, he still uses them today and that is now some 10 years of use. By all means, if you want to make something unique, that your mate will be proud of for a long time to come, Roo is the ticket. Bondo Bob

I have a bunch of weights that came from an old weight lifting machine, they are encased in poly pro, I think they are filled with sand (?) and are about 1 1/2" thick by 6" by 12" and weight approx 10lbs. I use then for everything. they even are handy for stretching and setting stirrup leathers. I just put a piece of broom handle through the stirrups and put them on the handle through the holes that are in them. They work great and you can find them at garage sales for next to nothing. Bondo Bob

Nice Job Joel! I know she is happy with those. Keep up the good work. Bondo Bob

Nice work Alan. I pretty much echo the comments from Jim and Andy. Bondo Bob

Either way works fine, it is just a matter of how much to charge and what the customer will pay. I have done them both ways and it takes about 3 times as long to do it in the round. If you want to make a profit you can figure how much both ways and present it to the customer. Stitched properly will be just a strong, remember not to stitch across the strap or it will weaken the strap. Bob