BondoBobCustomSaddles

Mike, there are a lot of people that do it many different ways and they work just fine, and really to each his own. Personally, I like to plug the skirts front and back on all my saddles. In the case of inskirt rigged saddles, at the front I modify the plug by skiving the leading edge of the plug that goes out to the front edge of the skirt, down to almost nothing so it won't create too thick a front edge when combined with the skirt and rigging. I hope that's not too confusing, it's just that I like the pocket that is formed and the fact that the plug helps keep that pocket in tact and the skirt firmly located to the tree. Again, just my preference, and there are many ways that work well. Plugging all around is a little more work, but; so what. Attached is a pic of one I did that way. Bob

Way Cool!!!! Thanks for sharing with us. Bob

Celt, Randy is spot on here. The book from Al Stohlman will answer all you questions on stitching, and much more. Bob

All of the above will work. It depends on how long you want the template to last, and how much you intend to reuse it. I generally start with the the templates that I made way back when, and copy them to a fresh piece of poster board (get mine at the IGA for 59 cents a sheet) and then modify the fresh one from there. Usually when I am making saddle parts they are not going to be exactly the same as the original patterns, so I take "new" pattern and make all the changes to shape and so on on it leaving the original unskathed, with notes like "make it longer here, or skive here, or more curve here" for future use. As for phone cases, holsters and all the other stuff, I just make it up as I go using anything I have handy when the mood strikes me to create somthing, (like cut open boxes ). In some cases I use some scrap pieces of leather for those items that I am going make a lot of over time. I actually have some hides of seating leather that I used to make the patterns for chaps and chinks, bite pads for the pony horses at the track. Basically you can use anything you can get your hands on, some stuff works better than others. I used to have a roll of heavy velum that worked really well, and those patterns are still in use, but that is long since used up. Bob

Hi Alan, glad to see more of your work here. Enjoy ridin' in it. Certainly will catch a few eyes on the trail or in the ring. Nice work. Bob

I would advise that you learn to make your own patterns, because you will find that you modify them, change them, create new ones and so on your whole saddlemaking life. I started by making the ones that are in the Stohlman books, and gradually went on from there. Bottom line, they have served me well for many years, and I still have, and use some of the original ones I made hanging on the wall. Hope that helps. Bob

I use a "cantle binding edger" that I got from Weaver. It has about a 4"/5" long curved front before it gets to the actual edger part. It has what looks to be a #3 french edger on it. It works really slick and makes triming off the excess easy. Bob

Mike, I am not sure that you would want to be around when I am doing it, unless you are wearing a good set of ear plugs! Language gets a little raw. Anyway, not that I am the best at this, but; I start with 7/8oz. and around the bottom edge and back to about the roll I skive about 1/2 thickness off, as for the ears, I really skive the area that will be under and around the point of the cantle I work it down even thinner so that the wrinkles will work out easier. I usually start at the the center and work out to the ends on both sides, it pushes more leather towards the ends, but; thats where I have skived it the most and work out the most wrinkles. Also, I do not glue when I first put the binding on because I work really hard at stretching the binding while cased,starting by tacking one point and stretching to the other point around the edge, for me it helps the binding to form around the whole thing, and actually get the top side to form without anything but a couple of tacks 9usually 5 or 6) in the stitching groove to keep it in place till it dries and forms. That is when I tool the binding, if it is going to be tooled. I also like the way it stitches and glues on once it is really dryed. It also dies, and edges better for me. This is the way I do it, oh yeah, I also use a lot of "salty" language and body english. If there is a better way I will be very interested, I will be watching this thread to see what the others say. Hope that helps. Bob

A little humor is the spice that makes life worth it. I took is as you meant it and got a chuckle out of it. Some folks' just have too thin of a hide, probably should use them to make gloves! Bob

Without question, made with the pride and attention fo detail that all your work exhibits. Absolutely top notch! Bob

Joel, I use a long curved branch of a deer antler. Don't know why, but; I have several tools made out of antler that do not leave marks on the leather. I use them a s a rub stick, also as a creaser, and general purpose "thingy" for use anywhere I need to finesse. Bob

Ordered it one day two days later it was at my door. Bob

The leather for these came from 'the leather guy'. Makes it a point to tell me how much she likes them every time I see her. Bob

Can't say for sure 'bout a shortage of "them big shaggies", but; the last time I purchased bison, I got a full side of rust colored 4/5 oz. leather for just under $100. I made these chinks out of it, and have enough left to make a second pair. Or maybe, when I get a second order for them, I will just get another side and have enough left to make a pair of fullsized pair for myself. Bob

I too, use the Stohlman chart to measure for fenders. They work just fine. Bob

You can also try The Leather Guy. They too carry lots of different seathers and colors. Also try some of their Bison, nice stuff, with a feel like Deer Tanned Cowhide but; thicker. Bob

Simply put, it works as advertised. It's pro oil dye, not watercolor. I keep a quart of laquer thinner handy in my shop, it will clean up most of that stuff except the leather. As for the smell, I spent over 40 years in the automotive industry, mostly working with interior and exterior coatings, so my sense of smell is no longer functioning, so I cannot attest to anything as far as how it smells, but; if you were to talk to my wife, well that's another thing now! Bob

Like Bruce, I saddle stitch my cantle bindings, and I use one length of thread, just because.....well, just because. I like the look better without a splice in the middle somewhere. No matter how good you are, it will still show some. It does take longer but the results are worth it. Bob

Hey Bob, There is no question that this was a unique experiance for students and instructors alike. I can only hope that by the time the next opportunity like this comes up, I can find a way to get there. If life has taught me anything, it's that no body knows it all, and it is never too late to learn. I bet , just being there to watch and absorb was worth the prce of admission. Thanks to you, and all the others that willingly offer up their experiance for us to learn from. Bob

Very Nice , especially for the first one. Shows that you take the time to pay attention to detail. "That is what separates the chaf from the wheat"! Keep up the good work. Bob

Very Nice Work! Would be proud to have that on my horse anytime. Bob

One way that you can get a set of patterns for cutters or others for that matter is: Take a pair of jeans that fit the way you like your chaps to fit , then mark right down the front center of the leg just like a crease, and also from the belt area in front down around the crotch area and around the top of the leg all the way around to the outseam with a magic marker. Then cut them down and around the top line from the belt to the out seam, and then down the outseam to the floor. When you open the resulting material up and lay it flat on your table, you have the beginning of a pattern. From there it's a matter of size for whomever you are making chaps for. Remember that line you drew down the from the center? Use that as a starting point to adjust pattern for the indviduals size and fit. Also, don't forget when you are laying out your pattern on the leather to leave extra material to be cut later for fringe, or a flap, also leave at least and extra 4" at the bottom as cutters like their chaps to cover their foot, at least the guys up here do. Hope that helps? Bob

Simply put, WAY COOL Bearman! Bob

I use glove leather for my show chaps. I get it from buckskinleather.com good people to do business with. I usually call to let them know what I am using it for, and get just what I ask for. Usually comes in about 2 days. Hope that helps. Really nice stuff, I always get a lot of folks asking about it when they see it at the shows. Bob

Rob, I make a fair amount of chaps, for Bikers, Excercize riders at the track, Cowboys of all sorts, Trail Riders, and Show chaps and chinks. With the exception of Show Chaps which I like to make out of glove leather hides I get from buckskin leather in Canada, for chaps and chinks that are meant to be used, I have become partial to deertan cow hide I get from Tandy, Kangaroo hide I get from Weaver, and lately Buffalo hide I get from the Leather Guy. I always try to match the type and weight of leather I use to the intended use and preference of the person I am making them for. In a lot of cases, I put in "wear patches" in the areas where they normally wear. Hope that helps. Bob