RusticLeatherShop
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RusticLeatherShop replied to Mattsbagger's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Dont worry, Ferg! I respect your Age. That was one of my first work after I just got the CB 4500 machine. Since then I have considerably improved about everything. See the binding so appreciatet by 'ya all! What worries me is that I start to realise not all on this Forum are real leather workers. Lots of wanna be's, IMHO! The Magazine holder are all enclosing the mag in order it cant be damaged. To such high Quality leather as the OP, we have here no Access but still I am happy leather is availlable for me. Otherwise Focus was and is on Utility and not shiny appearance since EDC lets it look like the Picture above after a few years. -
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RusticLeatherShop replied to Mattsbagger's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
These will not fit any plier at all for an mechanic as some claimed before. Beware of false info from Internet ninjas on Forums! Maybe one could fit a nose hair skissors for cosmetic purposes in order to cut some nose hair in the public just to show off the nice pen holders. But an small 380 ACP magazine could fit if they would be made a tad larger. I made some magazine cases which could be worn in the pocket as well. These i carry in the EDC case and not in the pocket. Not to imagine how they looked like would they be worn in the back pocket (near the ass). This is a realistic Approach. See below: -
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RusticLeatherShop replied to Mattsbagger's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
This is how they will look like after one year of use. Considered they are worn on the back pocket and "sat and farted" on a lot. Sheen gone, nice edges gone and warped, even more Edge warping since These ones in this thread are fairly square. But yeah to each his own. BTW, an binder like this nylon webbing is Maybe not the greatest idea on These but certainly would look nice at the beginning (obviously if finished well). Over here we have just not the materials to finish leather like that in this thread. But the ones I would make would last a lot longer. But I see already that for the modern consumer it's all About appearance and luckily the natural strength of the leather gives for a Long life as well. Those pen holders of the OP would lend themselves very nice for an disguised pen pistol (pistol disguised as a pen). To wear in the front Shirt pocket. -
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RusticLeatherShop replied to Mattsbagger's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
I second that. It's a niche product. People can't put in their Facebook, Twitter, WhatsApp, Netflix, Youtube, and what not into them. For delivery guys and such which write down things "the ol' way" it may be a good Thing but most of us have written something the past 10 years only on electronic Keyboards and not with a pen. Besides that it's an single purpose item meaning useless for other things than EDC pencils and pens. Well to each their own! -
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RusticLeatherShop replied to Mattsbagger's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
I wonder how those shiny laquered leather items look like after a month of exposed "flatulances and farts" mingled with some "bodily effluences" from daily use when worn in the back pocket near the ass. I guess at that Point nobody ever cares about the burnish or not since that is most likely warped and wrinkled like an "ol' russian mamushkas Skin which has been just overrun by an SS Stormtroop" (even if she once upon a time was a nice Young Lady). -
Orders to ship
RusticLeatherShop replied to Mattsbagger's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Whats that supposed to be Larry? I cant figure out which purposes those items serve. Seem utterly impractical. -
Global economy is a good Thing for the exporter, but an bad Thing for the importer. Where do you think Comes the whole US dept from? Because the US is a net IMPORTER while China is making the stuff the US made before. It takes a thief to deal with another thief! Trumps University scandal and his croocked business models (Kind of rip off housing construction, charging high rents to poor americans, his granddaddy was a Pimp, etc) makes him the correct man to look through the comunists thieving scheemes and rip off trade models. Something has to be done to produce things again in the US instead abroad. For that wages have to come down drastically in the US in order to produce again within the Country. Same Thing in Germany. Buy an CB4500 in Germany: they cost there 3495 Euros that is about 4000+ US$. Insane! I told them thats a rip off but they claimed they have in Germany more stringent "Quality laws" which makes them of "higher Quality". Whatever Gimmick and excuse serves to jack the Prices up. So pricing is very much an reflection of the greedyness and Money addict of Dealers and the whole Society as well as cost of living. Bring down the wagens about 1000% as well as cost of living 1500% and every Country produces again things for their own economy. 300 Million consumers is much enough for US automobile industry. Satisfy the local market and do it the comunist way to shut slow down the factory till old cars have to be changed for new ones and turn the machines back on to full power. Meanwhile fix an Minimum income for EVERYBODY regardless they work or not. The whole US depth is a direct result from Globalism (global economy). BTW I am an Economist and lawyer. Chinese have retaliated already during 30 years by now. Satisfy your own market, and if the Basics are covered like food, housing, education, security, car (tractor, truck) and work then your Basic Needs are covered. The rest is greedyness and tends to inflate the wages. That road the comunists went. We should learn some things from them but not all things. Refute the bad and Keep the good. Even the Bible says it. Have you ever noticed that the economic System of the Old Testament capitalistic was but the economy of the New Testament (church) was comunistic? So the good of both Systems have to be joined in order that it works Long Lasting. It's even in the Bible.
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I buy thread at Amazon.com and most likely that Comes from China as well? So in the next few months I have to order some more to avoid high pricing. Just make the stuff for cheap in the US and you are on the right path. BTW, the latin Country I live in has put an 10% of Tax as well on ALL Amazon imports (even buying theoretically in the US, they Charge ALL items). But still better than the rip off mentality of local Shops (since international online Shopping is possible here, Prices have dropped considerably up to sometimes 500%. Example: local gunshops Charge about 300 to 400% more for gun imports from the USA, while some US-and here registred FFL Dealers Charge only 100% more of the US Price all included).
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IMHO not really. If they go past a Limit (they are on right now), the labour costs are just to expensive and business will leave. If labour costs would rise in China costing now the CB4500 near 3000 US$, I would have not bought one. Simple as that. One can make a great Quality product but if the Price is skyhigh, no customers will buy it. Look at Sony Laptops made in Japan. What today is made in Germany or Japan? Nothing really, because of high pricing despite the high Quality.
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Well I guess those small profits translate to luckily for the american consumer, but bad for the american industry as "our great leader" already has realised. I guess it's a good move Trump makes to stop production in China and produce those items in the USA, but he should not Forget to bring down the margins as well. If the Profit margins in the USA fall lets say from 12$ labour costs per hour to 1.8$ labour costs /h like in Latinamerica, then very well These clones can be made in the USA for about 1500$ as well. People really dont Need to earn that much since they "throw the Money out of the window for luxury goods anyways". Like if the iPhone costs Apple 385$ to produce the US governement should apply a haircut to pricing for an end consumer Price of no more that 550 US$. Locally (Southamerica) the governement has applyed a haircut to the Banks for top interest rates charges for credit Cards. The cry of the banksters was great but now things have improved showing up more an more prepaid credit Cards and debt Levels of people has fallen drastically. Banks said they will not "be able" to offer more credit Cards, but lo and behold the prepaid credit Card showed up allowing for me as well to have one. So not all socialist regulatory measures are bad. Somehow the greedyness has to be limited. Lover the labour costs as well living costs within the USA, and then bring back all industries from China by taxing heavily all imports. Then things got straighten out again. That means an Juki TSC 441 clone has to be offered for about 1500 US$ (head + all accesoires) + Motor + reducer and table and very well the whole set will be availlable for below 2000 US$ but made in an Quality way from american workers.
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BDAZ, Thats about a as a realistic answer as it can get. Nothing beats first Hand info and real life info. I get my Infos mostly from serpentZA Youtube Videos who is residing for 10 years in Shenzhen or Ghuangdhon China and learned a lot. Similar to Latinamerica in many ways. The mentality to rip off the foreigner seems to be the same in Latinamerica as in China (you better receive and inspect personally the item since it can be DOA when they suspect nobody is checking it). There are many Smartphone companies who importet smrtphones directly from China to Europe. Looks like a good percentage of those electronics are faulty and lots of the remaining are starting to fail with components a few months after purchase. Dead On Arrival is common. For sewing machines, it's maybe harder to screw up the manufacturing since it's steel and cast iron, but still common faults can be stripped threads, screws who shear off their heads on Arrival (I have had this with my brandnew CB4500 and Hightex USA took care of me but they had the tendency to suggest as well to look for them on local hardstores which was a Little strange to me), missaligned optical eye on the Motor (which I have had as well and Hightex took care of me with instructions so I myself adjusted the optical eye as such as the machine does now stop precisely "when taking the foot off the gas pedal"), there can be cracked or split cast iron parts (which will be affecting the machines Operation), badly made threads on the cast iron (Which afterwards is allmost not to fix by the endconsumer himself), low Quality bearings, bearings who fail after some use due to Shoddy Quality workmanship (this is a Mayor part which can fail which renders the machine useless). I would not dare to hammer out an faulty bearing from an cast iron machine (hits will most likely split the cast iron) so the bearing better never fail. Thats why the CB4500 IMHO does only use 1 or 2 needle bearings and the rest is an steel ring where a steel rod Comes through which turns inside the ring which has to be oiled allways to reduce friction thus wear and tear.
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Yes, if you have to time the machine yourself, then that can become problematic. I would not trust myself to do that from scratch. Since you can not open the machines Body to look at the innards to learn by seeing how it works and has to be adjusted. If it is not pre threaded some people are lost eve with that. You could as well play russian roulette with an alibaba.com China ordered Revolver which may or may not turn even the cylinder lest to speak about being timed correctly!
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Hi, Yeah I just ran over an Webpage which offered copies of the Juki 441 as well. See here: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/441-single-lockstitch-cylinder-bed-extremely_60479210003.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normalList.14.200e9bd9EtEXwW This is the JL-441 model from Juki (copy) while the Cowboy 4500 are a copy of the Juki TSC 441. I have seen on alibaba.de (german. I seems not to appear in their english webpage for some reason) as well and Toledo branded Cowboy (eighter 3500 or 4500) for a Little over 1500 US$. The JL 441 copy above is around 1200 US$. It doesnt specify if it's only the machine or if it Comes with Motor, tables and what not else. It's most likely the machine )head) ONLY and other mentions of Motor voltage is probably the Setup the machine is INTENDED FOR. Very tricky. Shipping from China may surpass the final US pricing as some members very correctly have mentioned here. Well I got my CB4500 with Speed reducer and Motor + accesoires for 1970 US$ + the obicuous shipping. Most likely there are 100's of sewing machine factories in Shenzhen China alone and all are willing to fabricate you same Quality an CB 4500. Put your Name on the machine, and "off ya go with your own brand of TSC 441 machine" very same Quality as Toledos or other US representatives machines. But like Smartphones ordered directly from alibaba, you are screwed if it doesnt work. No warranty from China, and they expect you to send the machine in to China for repairs. Shipping costs which can be as high as often the machines Price alone (700 US$ maybe, + 700 $ shipping back for a whooping 1400$ shipping). You must be on the factories gates personally to receive and inspect the machine - otherwise that could be a very sorrow buy. Warranty is mandatory for These things which you will NOT get by buying directly from China.
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Interesting. So kydex is for sure not for here since 100 Degrees Farenheit are not uncommon for the Region I live in. Over here I have yet to see any Kydex Holsters but all is locally (nationally) made from leather. Locally made Holsters got thinner and thinner regards leather as well in order to Keep the same Price - for less "ooomph under the Hood". No, shortcuts are not gonna happen at least with RusticLeaderShop. I am know for not making compromises to Quality and durability. Were I live 100 Degrees in the shaddow is not uncommon in summer. Leaving an leather Holster bound with kydex binding in the car exposed to sunlight may be enough to deform the kydex binder. This is the stuff (Nylon webbing) I use for binding and it seems it's intended use is indeed binding. The one I use is only a Little broader being 1" to 1.15" broad. It's supposed to be used for binding leather. https://www.amazon.com/100-YARD-BINDING-WEBBING-HERRINGBONE/dp/B07B257P61/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537984172&sr=8-1&keywords=nylon+binding+webbing&dpID=51bdRx58%2BTL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
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Thanks charisa, The idea of being able to heat it lets say with an hair dryer is a tempting idea since one can mold it precisely around the Corners and edges and mold it over. Then sew it on. However if it's a Kind of plastic I fear it is suceptible to break. But I have no experience with kydex and allways stayed away from it since it rubs against a weapon dulling it's finish. Would not know neighter if it's declassified for civilian use aside the Holster manufacturers (dunno if it's hard to come by). Over here I have not seen any kydex whatsoever. But binding items with this Nylon webbing has be done for leather works.
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Well the Thing is no binder is availlable here and this heavy Duty nylon webbing is cheaply availlable and very heavy Duty. We are here located in an rural area were the Equipment gets in touch with thorny, spiny bushed who Scratch ya up Pretty badly. I once carried an 6" Taurus revolver in an common cowboy style leather Holster and saw a huge Scratch over the finish (exposed metal for quick draw) after just carefully Walking through grasslands were bushes are growing. That made me want to enter the leather craft and so it grew on me to buy an Cowboy 4500 machine to make for myself utilitarian heavy Duty Holster WHO WORK. So this binder is 1.15" Broad and thick nylon webbing which protects the edges. It may not be the prettiest but I assure you IT WILL HOLD UP TO ANY TASK. Nice burnished (or painted) edges look over here anyways bent and worn after a few months of use. Suggestions I may glue the leather on I will follow in the future. After that I will trim it and sand it to round the edges off and make 'em smooth'. But not to sew that will be a compromise for durability since the sewing the leather in that stage will hide the thread below the afterwards attached binder. With the hidden sewing thread then piece is double strong and bushes will not be able to occasionally get onto the thread and ripping it. Applying the binder afterwards (with glue) and sewing it on, hides the thread below exposing only the binder thread to the Elements. I believe thats the way to go. I dont ever wanna skimp in materials (like thread or sewing time) just to save me 1 Yard of thread. Thread isnt that expensive as to make a weak piece. Not gonna jump in the chinese bandwaggon (producing less durable items).
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All I have said till date stems from real life experiences in an pluricultural society outside the US. I have checked close some worn Chelsea style boots and did only occasionally see an #69 to #92 thread be broke. Those are lock stitched with an machine. None of the #138 or #277 bonded nylon/polyester threads have broken on shoes who are about to fail their outer soles. The soles are indeed the first part of the shoe to fail (along with the cracked leather) and NOT the thread. So for any smartphone case IMHO the thread will never be the issue nor is it relevant if its saddle stitched or lock stitched. Sewn by hand or machine I doubt is relevant. But some hand stitching people seem to rant others who are machine sewing (may envy play a role?). But I learned from munkys picture what really a Saddle Stitch is, which I never knew before. Thanks Munky. Saddle Stitching is then the tedious so behated handstitching we did in Church shops when I was a teenager. Taking up most of the time the so much cursed awl and needle difficult leather stitching. That's why I ordered the CB4500. I guess I will be eternally thankfull I have bought the Cowboy 4500 in order to avoid the hand saddle stitching. Overall the machine gives a better result than saddle stitching. If it ever unravels: restitch it again within 5 minutes. Regards durability I stand by my point to be able to contest any day with my products with any other products on this very "mother earth". Whats the point?!
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Yes the CB4500 is a lock stitch machine. That's the way I do it. I have yet to see on heavy used shoes the #92 (or so) thread to break. I use #138 bonded nylon thread. So the thread is not necessarily the weak spot of the piece. The weak spot on shoes (local 9$ shoes) is the leather cracking from bending and humidity. Normally even on used shoes the thread never cracks. Even the sole is breaking away before any thread rips. Just my 2 cents of real life observation.
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yes, I'll try to seal it by sewing it binding it underneath over. Curves I cant cut the binding since it weakens it and has to be burned to seal. The worst thing one can do with this nylon webbing is to cut it. Glued and stitch the binder after cutting it on the edges will make a mess IMHO. A receipe for unraveling the binding webbing.
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Regards the SPI (stitch count per inch) that's a practice over here with tailors who use Brother sewing machines for fabric or embroidery. Those machines have built in stitch counters. SPI counting is easy: measure 1 inch and the thread you see on top counts 1 stitch. There is a youtube video about that. It would be a viable option. Thread size is irrelevant since that cost can be neglected. Obviously over here I am not gonna pay any bill from this. The binder edges I may have to burn off to seal them and then fold them over underneath to make a nice edge. That idea came me from the closed thread. That would improve things and make look the finish better. Regards durability, I would want to find out in an contest, since I am sure my products would last the longest. I will try to make the finish and appearance better (specially the endings of the bindings). But overall the binding process makes for and double strength product which is hard to beat regards ruggedness and durability since I am already using full grain pig leather instead of split genuine leather. I have yet to be able to rip the full grain pig leather apart. The thread is not going to fail whatsever since the binder adds to an second layer of thread for a total of (2 x #138 bonded nylon thread) #276 thread strength (basically equal to 1 layer of #277 bonded nylon thread). But for a way cleaner and better look.