ensitmike

Video: https://imgur.com/gallery/5ovdyUa (Sorry about the sound my 3D printer is running in the background. ) i have two questions about the way my 206rb is feeding. I’ve been slowly dialing her in as I learn the mechanics (First part of the video) My first question: is it normal for the feed dog to impact the outer presser foot as it comes up and before the foot lifts? Is this timing or should I grind off the inner back side of the presser foot where it makes contact? When sewing I noticed that my material sometimes gets pressed forward and I think this might be the cause (Second part of the video) My second question: my material is getting pulled and it’s hard to keep it straight. You can see it pulling up (I’m assuming during tensioning) right as the vibrating presser foot hits it’s highest point and begins to come back down. You’ll see the fabric flare up and it pulls it to the side. Can this be fixed?

Awesome. Thank you for the great info. I think I’ll do the same. Mind if I ask why you ended up choose wax over something more durable/permanent like a polyeurethane coating, etc?

Wow that’s a big daddy welding rig you got there. Nice. Also did you do anything before applying the wax to the top? Was it just paste wax? If you ever want to apply a urethane or shallac will the wax be a problem? i have the same top and was looking to put a new top finish without ruining the patina.

This is so awesome. I want to do this to a Singer or Adler patcher, hopefully soon

100% badassery. Very cool, Don.

I think I agree with this because it does seem to be cutting in quite a bit. I did it based on a video I saw where you “yo-yo” the thread and it drops then stops. I think I was on the tighter end of that yo-yo trick though.

Other people will be better informed, but if you live in a major city, yea, that is likely in the ballpark.

Great. I’ll do that and get some matching thread to minimize it visually. Do you recommend diamond or the S type. I think it’s s, basically the sharpened standard tip vs diamond.

No, that is my next buy though. Will that fix a lot of this?

i had a couple question and thought I’d put them all in one thread so I don’t spam the forum 1) the first one is about my stitching. I’ve managed to balance the stitches and to get the loop in the center of the material, but the backside is very ugly. Is there a way I can fix this? For reference this is a consew 206rb-2 https://imgur.com/a/AC8ivjr (backside is left two stitches. Top is on the right) 2) how hard is it to replace the takeup lever cam wheel on a singer 15-91? The wheel that the takeup lever rides in and causes it to go up and down. Also where would I look for a replacement? 3) I’ve already put 6 layers of 1/4” Eva foam under the feet of my table of my 206. There is a rug under that. How might I quiet the vibrations even more? Running a clutch motor currently and it’s really loud. Thanks guys!

Not sure the exact model because it is probably a generic China product but I got a GREAT magnetic one from my sewing machine guy. It sticks very hard but isn’t so hard the I need a screwdriver to lift it. Has a great tab that allows for tilting the magnet and then it’s easier to lift off. Looks like this one: https://sterlingsewing.com/products/sewing-machine-extra-large-magnetic-seam-guide-2-1-2-x-1-3-8-x-1-2

I couldn’t upload my full Rez images without resizing so I’ll post someone else’s photo of the same machine. Prusa MK3 for me. I haven’t done anything except add some harmonic dampeners to the motors and some cable guides. The machine already comes pretty fine tuned. Definitely suggest it for all levels of users.

It would be interesting to see how this held up. PLA is terrible with friction and any leverage applied by the belt could easily snap along the horizontal layer lines. 3D printing is strong adjacent, but terribly weak along lines. That said a nylon print would work awesome. A little more accessible would be PETG. I wouldn’t personally ever do a mechanical part out of PLA though, not advise someone from ordering a PLA part from 3Dhubs or the like.

After further inspection, the FS-550 seems to be a rebranded generic (like most things coming out of the greater Asia region). I think it is almost identical to the REX and Enduro servos on Amazon. Enduro Sewing Machine Motor - 550 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P8RQRQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lMfiCbPKRCX2Q i think I may go that route. I love the idea of supporting small shops but will do it more once I’m out of school. If I’m mistaken and these servos are inferior please let me know.

The sound is my biggest motivation (excuse) to make the move so maybe I can do a combo of a smaller pulley AND a servo motor. $150 is reasonable to me though. That is looking like a great option How is the speed control in your opinion on that model?

I did. I cut up my roommates old yoga mat haha. Put 7 layers of the stuff under each foot. It helped a lot with the hard resonance to the floor but the thing is such a beast it still is loud. I’d also like to have better control. I recently had the opportunity of working in a shop that had both clutch and servo motors and the servos were night and day to me.

Hi everyone new here and just became a proud owner of a consew 206! i quickly found out that it vibrates my entire apartment though, which isn’t great for neighbors. Im wondering if there are any servo motors with speed variability in the $100 range that would serve me well. Is that cheap not worth doing, are they fine, is $200 night-and-day. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you!

Wow those videos are great! Thank you.

Hi Alexander I hope you dont mind me reviving this thread, and I am hoping your email gets notified about posts. I noticed you mentioned your 206 RB-2 came with its original documents, including the manual. I have searched everywhere online for an RB-2 manual and I cant find it! Would there be any chance you would be willing to digitize yours? I think it would be a great addition to the internet and I would appreciate it so much. Thanks, Mike