ensitmike

Hey there Glen. Sure do. Here is the image. https://imgur.com/a/133NFtJ I found some mixed perspectives on the machines. Some say it is only good for textiles and can't handle leather. Others say it can sew 3/8" of veg tan. If you know anything else about the 337-G's I'd love to know.

Hey everyone, So I've decided I want to pick up a cylinder arm, but I'm just not sure if it is the right move so I thought I'd stop in here and ask. The plan is to sell or trade my Singer 29-4. So I guess my first question is, will I regret losing a patcher if I gain a cylinder arm? Is this a good move? The ideal machine I have been eyeing is a Techsew 2750 or 2700 Pro. There is also a Pfaff 337-G near me that would be an almost even trade for my 29-4 (picture here:https://imgur.com/a/133NFtJ). I've never owned a Pfaff and also don't know much about this machine. The rumor is parts are hard to find and expensive if I've heard correctly. Does any of this sound like a good plan? Thanks guys.

The only problem with most servos is the massive motor control box. The ones without the box, like the family sew or rex are 3x the size of the one pictured. It's been tough finding the perfect motor. The one pictured was by Sailrite, but unfortunately they stopped making them. I have servos on my tables. A rex specifically, which is almost identical to the family sew. This application would specifically be for mounting to the machine itself though. Edit: Another problem with servos that I forgot about is that they use a mechanical lever for motor speed control rather than an electric or current restricting pedal.

Hey Mike, yea, you're right. Most of the machine mountable motors I run across are standard domestics. 1-1.5 amp. I'm looking to replace the motors on my Singer 29-4, Husqvarna Viking 33-10, Singer 119-2, and my Pfaff 130. I'd like to keep them all portable so that I can pull them off the shelf whenever needed--so machine mountable is important. Ideally I'd LOVE something like this 3.7 amp motor. It has been discontinued though. It is mounted to a table here but is small enough that I could create a bracket and machine mount it. Unfortunately, I cant find anything similar.

Hey all. I've been looking around for a new motor for several of my machines but can't seem to find anything larger than 1.5 in the sewing machine world. Does anyone know of a machine mountable motor that is 3-4 amps?

I don't know if you checked it out yet but if it works... 100% buy immediately. That is a great price for a machine that isn't good for starting, but that will be hard to find when you're ready for it for that price (or even 6x that price often). You don't know you want it yet, but you do. If you ever sell it... remember me

Have you seen what LV does now? Ever since Virgil Abloh its a bunch of tacky "supreme" street wear. Not to say they won't or shouldn't take legal action... but the brand has been cheapened. Unfortunately it is not John that is tacky... it is the market that is.

If there are already bolts in the back, consider putting longer ones in and using bolts on the outside.

1. That is for a knee lift. It mounts to the table. I'm not sure which picture you meant, but I assumed the one of the underside. They are VERY helpful and easy to get. I suggest it. 2. The holes for mounting the flip down kind are on the back usually. If not, brackets can be made or you can drill and tap.

I've done this with both 3d printed parts and cast polymer parts. It works great. Didn't watch the video but I found a custom brass tip inserted into a soldering iron works awesome. If you have a friend with a lathe that should be a cheap part.

Is there a video somewhere that explains how this works?

Does it just need to be pointy on the end? You could absolutely weld on a new tip. I'd machine off a good bit to give a good surface. I'd also probably be sloppy with it and leave a lot of excess material, then turn this on the lathe to get a nice new tip.

oh absolutely. when it comes to finish I would only hot rod it if I was planning on keeping it haha. I don't mind the grey and black machine that Constabulary did if I ever find a 29k. By restore I just mean a proper tear-down and surface rust removal. It's in surprisingly good shape. Doesn't have the largest SPI because of wear but it seem decent.

That is great news. I've been a bit out of the loop focusing on making rather than machines and forgot along the way that I actually want a large bobbin 29k. I'll restore this one and see what happens from there. Thank you for the info. Will definitely be picking up some bobbins for this on Monday.

Thanks DC. I plan on going to my city's industrial district tomorrow to see if I can grab one. Here are some photos after a light cleaning for the rest of you all. Need to grab some kerosene for the caked on bits. Brushing with oil only got me so far. Also, what is popular opinion--keep the patina or restore finish on metal parts?

Hey everyone. Had a question. These rolls are what were in the machine and also what came with it. Do the 29-4 machines not have bobbins? Is there alternatives or self winding options? Is this obsolete now? Thanks for any info.

You know, I kind of just used "the nack" and tore it down last night figuring id know how to put it back together. Its actually an amazingly simple machine! I was surprised. What engineers were able to do with cams was amazing. It looks to be in great shape. Everything is there and it had a piece of test leather under the foot so he understood the "it functioned when I left it" thing. I'll post pictures later, because I do have a couple questions. Oh very cool! Thanks! I'll take a look. Thanks! I'm excited. I plan on keeping it until I can find a later model. Might be a while haha. I was very lucky its in fully working order. Even the motor. Appreciate the resource though! Maybe if something goes wrong in the future.

Thank you scoutmom. You’re about the only people who can appreciate the find, so I thought I’d share :p

Went to an unlisted estate sale today that I ran across... found my white whale there! The machine I've wanted but couldn't find (or couldn't afford it when I could find it). A cobbler's, very well kept, singer 29-4 patcher! Just $50 out the door. I don't know where to start. This is my first cylinder arm so there is some learning that has to be done. Very excited.

Thats interesting. I know its an intuitive thing and "a feel" you get over time, but any suggestions on what to look for and where when it comes to slack? Thought asking this might also help the OP.

You’re not in Los Angeles are you? Didnt know this was such a good deal. I had a guy offer me one for $1400 but I didn’t need that heavy of a machine. Should have jumped on it :X

I had a similar looking bottom stitch. Switching to a diamond point leather needle cleaned up the stitch a lot. Was this by chance stitched with a standard needle?

Im new, but I couldn’t agree more with this statement. This guy is trying to sell you what he has, not what you need.

The only PETG I use is 3DxTech but they are expensive and it’s more of an aesthetic thing. I like the way their filament looks. Most PETG bought from a reputable source are great. The quality problems of the early days of 3D printing are more or less gone. Something like hatchbox is great and usually available on Amazon Just know that if you use 3DxTech you have to put glue stick down on your bed or it will adhere so strongly it will damage it. It will peel off nonstick coating and will even take chunks of glass out of glass top beds. Nasty stuff but great quality. Other PETGs don’t usually have that kind of bonding problem. Specifically for stamping though I would look at the hardness of nylon vs PETG. strength won’t be a problem for them but the harder the filament the more crisp your stamping will be. also, for resolution on the plane of the bed, look into a .25mm nozzle. It will give you much more detail than a .4mm. That was a bit much but hope it helps. Best of luck.

I use PETG regularly. Abs is not a good choice because it will warp without a heated enclosure and it actually offgasses. So more than smell it is also toxic and requires ventilation. PETG is an outstanding material, and is easier to print than nylon, however if you are capable of printing nylon it will wear better and I believe has a higher strength Just know that that moving from PLA to almost any high strength filament is tricky. It take much more fine tuning and often doesn’t print as smoothly and beautifully.