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I'm about to purchase some 3M Dual Lock (heavy duty velcro-like tape) and am thinking of getting the plain, non-adhesive version, because a half of the mated strip will be stitched onto the backs of leather bags. The other half will have to be glued to the hard plastic (polypropylene) case. Anyone know if contact cement would be enough to glue these plastic strips to the plastic case, or should I use another type of glue? Thanks, Ed

Pheasant is a light yellowish straw color, at least the Coats pheasant I get from Ferdco is. I just got in some color swatches from Coats, and I think the industry might be using the same color system, as it seems that color naming and numbering seems similar across manufacturers, at least for Coats and Eddington. Give Ferdco a call. ed

Would you say that Fabri Tac has a stronger hold than PVA for holding seams together for stitching? Ed

This sounds like another job for DUCT TAPE. Three wraps should do it. ed

I think I have to do the same for my roller to get it moving more freely. Now I understand the tape method, tape around the spinning guide. I was thinking it was tape around the knurled wheel, which would worsen the problem. ed

Five minutes ago I had to punch through 9mm of leather to set a hole for a chicago screw, which has a post girth of 4.5 to 5mm. When I have to punch through such thick leather, i usually go down one size in drive punch. I used a #4, which gave a very snug fit for the chicago screw post. By the way, I have learned that the 1/2" Chicago screws from Weaver come with a 3/8" screw. The 1/4" and 3/8" posts come with 1/4" screws. I was expecting 1/4" screws as standard with all posts. ed

Tuff Kote is certainly worth trying. It could in conjunction with Atom Wax or Aussie Wax, but I don't think you need to use it in conjunction with any other shiny finish. Tuff Kote puts down a semi-gloss satiny finish. For a high-gloss finish try Leather Kote from Weaver by way of LCI, though I have not tried Leather Kote because I prefer less of a gloss. In trying to figure out just what Weaver is marketing in Tuff Kote, the latest I've come up with from LCI is that it is Poly Kote. From LCI's website: POLY KOTE * An excellent waterproof top coat finish and protective coating. Poly Kote is formulated from a blend of very tough, yet flexible acrylic resins that achieve a high gloss and excellent durable wear. Excellent scuff resistance. Widely used on factory tanned leathers--smooth and exotics. Spray as is, do not thin. Accompanying my order from Weaver was a Materials Sheet labeled "Poly Kote". Another sheet was labeled "Spray Kote" , which I believe corresponds with the black pigmented version that Weaver also sells as Tuff Kote, which I will use occasionally for a black edge finish. This clear Tuff Kote/Poly Kote is definitely worth consideration and seems to be underneath the leatherworking radar. Ed

Just an idea. What about modifying/grinding 1/16" of the circumference of the knurled wheel and then taking off the same amount off each side of the railing so that you don't lose room to tighten and loosen the modified wheel.That's option number 1, not a great one.Option two:Call around to see if anyone has a similar knurled wheel with a smaller diameter. By the way, what diameter does your wheel have? Mine is 27mm. Also on mine, the distance from one end of the guide assembly to the edge of the roller is 84.06mm. Call artisan to see if there is some variance among stock and to see if there has been this overlooked difference between your long arm and and regular 4000 and 3000, as the roller guide is probably the same for all machines, but your LA25 might be slightly different.ed

I like Duall 88 and Tandy's contact cement. ed

i like a #5 drive punch for chicago screws.

Thanks, Dan. I think it's the same type of container. Something made me think trying to punch a screwdriver through the top was going to result in a messy situation. I'll try the scratch awl. Ed

I just got in Top Coat #200, a waterproofing finish for vegetable and chrome tanned leathers. I think it's lacquer-based. It's manufactured by LCI and distributed by Weaver. It comes in a rectangular gallon container. Underneath the cap is a metal covering the mouth that reads "Cut This Out". I was gingerly trying to puncture the covering with a screwdriver to pry the rest off, but it increasingly seemed like a not very good idea. Is ther a particular method to cut out this metal covering? Thanks, Ed

Thanks, Steve. This is good to know, because I may be buying a two or three year supply of bonded Poly.Ed Thanks, Steve. This is good to know, because I may be buying a two or three year supply of bonded Poly.Ed

Just got in Tuff Kote clear and Tuff Kote black from Weaver. The LCI MAterial Safety Sheets included labelled the items as Poly-Kote and Spray-Kote. My guess is that the former is for the black and the latter for the clear. All information on both sheets is identical. While I like the PVA solution we came up with, I'm beginning to think this Tuff Kote is used by that holster company that does such beautiful work. Now for a bit of recap, after two minutes experience with Tuff Kote from Weaver: I believe this is what I have purchased. The following description, from the now-defunt Dyo website, seems to be the most informative: Color Cote: DYO Color Cote is the most advanced and versatile pigmented finish available for leather today. Color Cote is aqueous, and is quick drying. Once set, Color Cote is waterproof and resistant to most solvents. In addition to leather, Color Cote also adheres very well to vinyl’s and other synthetics. Color Cote is also safer and more cost efficient than many finishes. It’s aqueous nature allows easy clean-up. There are no harmful fumes and no hazardous material disposal. Application: Spray or Manual Holster Cote & Belt Cote: DYO’s Holster Cote and Belt Cote offer the same advantages as Color Cote, as well as cost efficiency. Holster Cote or Belt Cote should be applied as the top cote colorant after the base dye has dried. Thomsen’s Leather Dye or DLD series dyes are recommended as the base dye for this easy two step system. Application: Spray or Manual As always, pictures will be forthcoming. The Color-Kote/Poly-Kote may very well be an extremely interesting product, interesting enough to make me tempt an order with LCI once again. shipped with it labeled the

Since I will be buying in bulk directly from coats, does anyone see a problem with bonded poly or nylon sitting on the shelf for around three years, if necessary? Ed

Look on p.215 of the linked PDF. http://www.leathersupply.com/downloads/cat...mp;Supplies.pdf ed

Weaver could probably make a mallet or clicker die that will punch the screw holes and the belt slot simultaneously. ed

Has anyone here ever used Coats Nylbond in 207 to 346? Today I received a swatch chart from Coats/Barbour and it got me to thinking about trying Nylbond instead of Dabond. I'll post pictures a bit later of the dark brown and chestnut #2 swatches. Ed

a stain that you mix with oil. it's not a dye that you would apply by itself.

I'd love to see scissormedic's mobile office. Another thing I'd like either to find or make in the future is a fold-up presentation stand that can hold a laptop, small speakers, and an LCD projector and that can be rolled along with the case. I remember seeing a Stanley Max, or something, that was a rolling toolbox with fold-up work stand. I've ordered the Pelican 1560 case to start tinkering with ideas. Thanks, Ed

Beautiful sheath. Did you use two magnets or just one which attracts the steel of the knife blade? I just finished my mock-up using a a magnet on the flap and a magnet on the front panel. The magnets are backed with an oversize disc of the same 4/5 oz leather and stitched into place. I'll post pictures later. Magnetic discs used were 1/8" x 3/4" with a pulling force of around 50 lbs each, which is reduced by the layer of leather.Thanks,Ed Thanks, Ben. I'll give them a call.Ed Windy,I was thinking exactly of those electrical socket knockouts.but haven't seen them around for years.Thanks,Ed

I'm back onto this magnetic closure idea, but for a case for files and documents. I've got a good method for stitching the 1/8" by 3/4" magnetic disc into place but was thinking that instead of using two magnets I should use one magnet and one metal disc that the magnet can attract. Is it possible to by metal discs of specified sizes? Thanks, ed

They are expensive, but I think you can get the right sized case without foam for about $130 if you shop around. Then you can outfit it with the leather items (5 to 6 interior removable cases) and sell the whole thing for $500 to $900. I think there's a market for such an item. Many road warriors go through one or more cases every six months. The rolling case itself has a lifetime unconditional warranty. The only thing I don't know is how smoothly and quietly the case rolls on the average street in a metropolitan area. McKlein sells a rolling leather case, nowhere near as rugged and weatherproof, for around $500. If you watch the video of the 1510 overnight case, you'll see how the laptop case and auxiliary case attach to the underside of the lid. My version will be simpler: 2" 3M Dual lock strips glued to the case. For vibration dampening, laptop and LCD projector leather pouches will have 1/2" neoprene on the side that attaches to the case. oooooooooooohh. New idea...........Make a removable, scaled down single gusset version of the Maverick to go into the case. This will be an optional item. ed

This is a cool idea. Thanks. Will this satiny finish be permanent, or will the brass tarnish just as quickly as brass that has not been tumbled? The Nevr-Dull is still necessary for cleaning up brass hardware that has already been stitched or riveted to leather items. ed

Got it! I'll use 3M 2"-wide dual lock fastening tape. Five times stronger than Velcro and the adhesive backing should hold for a very long time to the case. ed