esantoro

I'm keeping my eye out for a Marvin Deitz 12" splitter. There was one a while ago on Ferdco's "For Sale" board, but I'm I don't think the owner will take $1K for it. He was asking $2.5k. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14496&view=&hl=marvin%20deitz&fromsearch=1

I keep thinking that there's got to be some way to fashion a small pipe cutter to shorten screws and posts. A tool maker should be able to make one of these easily. I keep thinking that there's got to be some way to fashion a small pipe cutter to shorten screws and posts. A tool maker should be able to make one of these easily.

The Press N Snap is on my shopping list, but I'm still trying to figure out an acceptable method for setting these line 24 snaps. The Tandy setter was actually doing a good job of rolling over the post on brass snaps. Once I tried it on stainless steel, the setter became deformed and is no longer usable. The more expensive hardened steel setter from OTB, while it will not be deformed by stainless steel, does not roll the post over properly -- a little too flat. Plus, this hardened tool from OTB had to have its girth sanded down a tad to fit inside the male part of the brass snaps from Zack White I think I might look into seeing if the bottom holder dies from OTB will greatly improve performance. ed

Got my techlite with leather headband yesterday. Very nice. I got the magnifying lenses marked 3 and 5. The 5 seems to be too strong and requires me to strain my neck to put my eyes closer to my work than I normally would. The 3 seems to work the best for me, but I think the 2 would be best to use in conjunction with a stitching machine or for reading at a comfortable distance. In choosing a magnifying lens, it may be better to think about how far from your work you would like to have your head and eyes rather than just go by magnifying power. Ed

Art, When using the Press n Snap, do you have to make sure the proper amount of post is exposed for rolling, or does the device compensate appropriately for excess exposed post? Ed

Thanks, Luke. I was close to using the grease I use for my speed reducer, but I had read warnings not to do so, something about heat build up. Do you think it matters whether I get the spray on or rub on lithium white grease, as some places have only the spray on? My thinking is that a tub of the rub on grease would be best. Ed

Hi Art, Well, I just got a hardened steel setter from OTB. A little better but not much. I think I should consider the Press-n-snap you mentioned. Can the Press-n-Snap do stainless steel snaps? Ed

I've been using a flex shaft rotary tool for several months now and don't know why I had waited so long to get one. I figure I should be taking out the flex shaft and oiling it at least twice a year. Is there a good general lubricant I can use or should I get the lubricant that Foredom sells? Thanks, Ed

Thanks, Art. I've been looking through the catalogs and I'll have to call OTB on Monday to see which tool has the best reputation. I don't think anything ZW and Weaver have is of hardened steel. OTB catalog PP. 16-17: T-164, T-1155, T-1170/T-1175 Ed

Anyone know of a good setter for line #20 and #24 snaps in stainless steel and brass. I was having a decent enough go on the brass snaps with the Tandy setter. But once I started using the Tandy setter on the stainless steel snaps I think the setter got a bit deformed and no longer peens properly. Do Zack White, Weaver, and Ohio Travel Bag all have good setters/ Thanks, Ed

What about a long Chicago screw?

Aaaaah! Now I understand. I'll keep a look out. ed

OTB calls its device "pull snaps".

I didn't see in the Weaver catalog that they had SS snaps. Zack White has SS and solid brass line 24 snaps. ed Edit: I was thinking of the wrong snaps.

Here's a link to get a close-up picture. http://www.hardwareelf.com/elfapp/jsp/latche_page.jsp#L-044 UK Saddlery gets a lot of stuff from OTB and doubles the price. ed

Ohio Travel Bag has something similar but perhaps bigger. Look around their website, as it is listed in the catalog on the bottom of p.23 ed

Try the 4/5 oz or 5/6 oz double shoulders from Siegel of California.

Though the prices seem a bit high, have a look at the plastics here: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=181&step=2&top_cat=849

forward one of your Etsy convos with this person to abuse [AT] etsy.com. Etsy admin will immediately cancel this person's account. I would just ignore all future emails/convos of the same nature. Usually this is done with a cashier's check and not a personal check. In either case, you can contact the issuing bank and have them run the routing number, account number, and check number to confirm that everything is legit.

What size thread and needle are you running? You will probably have the best results if there is slight contact between the needle and the hook on the upswing. If there is not slight grazing, you may want to shim the spacing ring a bit. ed

From my experience with the 441, it's good to start with proper bobbin tension. Once you have the bobbin thread above the needle plate it should neither pull too loosely nor too tightly. The pull should be smooth and steady. I've noticed that I often have to adjust bobbin tension when alternating between Eddington 277 and Coats 277. Once you are sure that bobbin tension is adequate, adjusting top tension is much easier. Experience has shown me that the spring in the bobbin case MIGHT be a factor in unpredictable bobbin tensions, as not all bobbins are 100 percent identical and that spring may be pushing some bobbins against the bobbin housing top bar. I have achieved 100% predictable bobbin tension since I removed that spring. How would you describe how smoothly the bobbin thread pulls out above the needle plate? ed me='tat2' date='30 September 2009 - 09:05 AM' timestamp='1254315908' post='125568'] Good morning! I was an adler 205-64 which sewed like a charm offering the best stitches I have ever seen. I bought three 346 spools from Weaver leather and it seems now the tenision is off BIG TIME. I had attempted to adjust the tenison but nothing seems to be working. I called Weaver and they said all their thread comes this ways so it glides through the leather easier. They suggested I buy a wax pot which would solve this problem, But It does not make sense. If other folks are using this kind of thread I'd love to know how one can correct the tenision. Its getting exhausting with handsewing and an expensive piece of hardware now just sitting there..... I know the black knob at the top of the machine creates the tenision then there is another knob which has no effect. the Manual is bloody useless so please help!! Thanks Stephen

Lately I've been thinking about this very presser-foot adjustment screw and have come to the notion that many of us, maybe it's just me, have this adjustment screwed down too tightly and should probably back it out a bit. I'll take a picture of the exposed threads on my machine. Maybe others can do the same, though I'm sure there might be some variance among different manufacturers and distributors. Ed

That screw thingamabob is easy to put back if it pops out. If memory serves correctly, it might get a bit of flight time if you are not paying attention and you unscrew it all the way. This has happened to me once. ed

Has anyone ever electroplated nickel over brass? I'd like to see if it's possible to start nickel plating on demand some of the solid brass hardware I currently have, dees, rings, rivets, etc. Thanks, Ed

Due to being busy, I haven't been able to post much lately. The current price wars have caught my attention, and I think the least I can do is repay in some small part all the the hours Ryan Neel has spent with me on the phone every time I think I've rediscovered or attempted to rediscover the wheel with these cylinder arm machines. No matter what the thing is, I want it to run according to the plans I have in my head, and Ryan has always been extremely helpful whenever I've had a question. I'm not sure, though, whether his wife appreciates all my calls, especially the ones after hours. I haven't been very partisan in the past regarding manufacturers and distributors of these machines because many vendors have been very good to me with a variety of supplies and parts, and I haven't wanted to slight any one unintentionally. Ferdco has been very helpful with thread and lube pot attachments. Artisan has been a great help with thread and needles. On several occasions Artisan went above all expectations. They've sent me free of charge very difficult-to-find screws for my 441 machine that I was unable to find anywhere else, even knowing that the screws were not for one of their cylinder arm machines. On another occasion, without my requesting it, they responded to information in one of my posts by sending me replacement parts for a snake-arm lamp. Campbell Bosworth has also been great for thread,needles, edge finishes, etc. Zack White has been good for leather, adhesives and many other things. The list goes on. I've needed all their help at various times, and they've all been great. I wish I had unlimited funds and space to support all these companies more. Other people have posted here about their experiences with various machine vendors. Ryan Neel and Cowboy machines do seem to be a little underrepresented. I'm very grateful to Ryan for all the hours he has spent with me before and after the sale. It's been a couple of years since my last machine purchase, and he's still always willing to spend hours with me obsessing over .02 millimeters here and there. We also have many pleasurable discussions on things unrelated to these machines. For that alone I am grateful. Ed