
DirtyDusty
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Everything posted by DirtyDusty
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I rented a video on ground seat installation off of Giddyup flix. I can’t remember the guys name that was doing it, but he stated that the way the tree maker built the bars, determined how the ground seat is built up. He was putting in plugs and risers, then the tin strainer, one layer of skirting on the front section and one over the whole seat area. When I watched the Dusty Johnson video, he had no risers, but more layers of leather. the Stohlman books deal with an all leather ground seat, so their technique is different. I ordered my tree from Dusty Smith, if anyone is familiar with his trees, would you share your technique for doing a ground seat with tin strainer?
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What would you suggest as an optimum weight? I would assume the back of the cantles could work with a lighter weight too.
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If you are using 13-15oz leather fir a saddle. Do you use full thickness skirting for the swells and the back of the cantle? I have read the Stohlman book and the Dusty Johnson book, but don’t remember them saying anything about s thinner leather for theses parts.
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What brand is the other maul?
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What are the basic stamps I will need for oak leaf tooling? Just starting out stamping and trying to assemble a set.
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Second Saddle Finished
DirtyDusty replied to pharescustomleatherworks's topic in Saddle & Tack Maker Gallery
What size basket stamp is that? -
I was thinking of making a bouncer out of a brass door knob. Does brass discolor or mar the leather? Seems like I saw some fir sake a while back, but wasn’t sure if brass is the best choice or should i go porcelain.
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Anyone know what diameter it is? Trying to figure out what size tiger thread would be the equivalent.
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Does anyone have some pics of how they installed rings on the back of their riding saddle? Is it better to make a small rigging piece out of leather, or get thevrings with the metal clip, and screw through it, into the bars?
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I have been doing my handsewing with a Tiger thread, 1mm. But I wanted to use linen on my saddle. I have read through many posts on here and have seen 5 cord and 6 cord mentioned fir saddle making. I will be handsewing everything on it. What size would you recommend?
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What is the best size linen thread, 5 cord or 6 Cord? I’ll be handsewing everything. Been doing some small projects and using 1mm tiger thread, but was going to get linen fir the saddle.
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I have been reading about plugging the skirts, in quite a few threads on here. It leads to some more questions. First is the thickness of leather. The Johnson book recommend 2 sides of 13-15 oz. I believe the Stohlman is similar. Several threads I have seen on here say you shouldn’t use that heavy of skirting on fenders. What would be the best approach for buying sides? I don’t want a lightweight trail saddle, but I don’t need a super duty roper either. Figured more of an all round saddle. Next, if you do use 13-15 or 14-16 oz sides, do you still need to plug the skirts? What about leaving the plugs out under the thigh area?
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I noticed several mule saddles, that I have seen online, don’t have the rear of the skirtings laced together. They say it’s to help with spine clearance. Is there anything special that would need to be done differently as far as securing the skirts to the tree? I have the Stohlman encyclopedia, that I have been reading through and studying their techniques. However they really don’t say anything about mule saddles.
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Is the #10 punch still available?
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Thanks for taking time to answer all of my questions. I debated about waiting for a custom tree to be made vs a production one. I knew there would be some issues, just not sure which is a no-go, vs something that can be worked around. I came out to the shop today and started really inspecting the tree. I set it on my table saw, which has a precision ground surface. With it setting flat, I get a slight rock from one corner to the next. Can’t tell if it’s in the fron or back, but I get about 1/8” come off the table at opposite corners. Is this enough to render the tree unusable? next I stood measured from outside of bar to outside of the other bar, used a square to transfer the center to the top of cantle and did the front the same way, but transferred the center mark to the front of the gullet. The back lines up center of the cantle. The front mark, if carried up to the top of the horn, is about .25” offset of center. If I stand the tree up on the cantle and use a square to measure from the back bar tips to the horn, I am square to the center of the horn, but .25” out of square to the center of the gullet. Stirrup slots are exactly even with each other either, and go straight down instead of having the front groove angled forward. Am I being too picky about things or is this tree not useable?
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If I do end up rehydrating it, what type of varnish should be used, that won’t react with the barge cement?
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This is what I was talking about. Looks like some staples had already popped out. There are some gaps between the raw hide and wood, in the dishes outbarea of the seat. Is this normal? Will it cause issues with the finished seat? It a Hadlock Fox tree. They had several mule trees without having to do a custom order. As far as fit, the bars fit pretty good everywhere except the very back. Seems like the bars lift off the back about 3” from the tip. I was under the impression that their trees where made in the USA, but the box it came in said made in Mexico.
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I just got my tree in. It’s a HF rawhide covered, broadus wade with mule bars. First thing I noticed is when I un boxed it, it is stapled instead of tacked. Several of the staples are sitting proud and a couple are bent over, like the staple gun malfunctioned. Should I just tap them in the rest of the way? Or will this this cause other issues?
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I have been looking at the fancy style round knives that have the handle at an angle to the blade. An example would be the Leather Wrangler, with the more ergonomic style handle. The question is, is the top part of the blade useable? I have never tried one, but it seems that if you flipped it over, it wouldn’t be at a useable angle. If that’s the case, why not just make it with half a blade?
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I have used angled stirrups on mass produced saddles to help with knee pain. But I noticed you never see them offered on custom saddles, that have the stirrups set with a Hamley twist. Are angled stirrups just a fix for a poor built saddle?
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Is Wicket Craig #1 skirting as good as HO #1?
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Where is the best place to get Herman oak, 13/15oz sides from? I only need 2 for the saddle I am wanting to build. What about Wickett-Craig, is their skirting as good as Herman Oak?
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You said 1 of the 4 sent you what you ordered, which place had the best quality side?
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Where would be the best place to order a couple of sides of 13-15oz skirting, and have a pretty good chance of getting quality?
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I ordered one this afternoon, from HF. Broadus wade with mule bars. Now I need to get my leather and hardware together.