AlamoJoe2002

I made a belt from Wicket & Craig chestnut veg-tan 12 ounce hide. After the neatsfoot oil (NFO) coating dried a few weeks I applied black dye. I used “Feibings Black Leather Dye.” The dye bottle doesn’t specify water or alcohol based product. It is not legal for sale in California. I finished the edges and applied a homemade sealer of NFO, bees and carnauba wax.The stuff is stiff as a wax candle poured from a teflon mold the size of an 8 ounce butter stick. I continue to use a t-shirt to remove trace of black dye rubbing off the belt. I read a few forum posts about this problem. I have a few choices…keep rubbing for the next century, seal it up with a 50/50 rosolene product…or murder it with a rag and steel wool full of xylene or toluene to remove anything black. I need a reasonable solution because the dye mixed with the homemade wax sealer and contaminated everything. Do I remove the wax sealer or seal it up? Happy Thanksgiving to Everyone Around the World, Joe

Welcome. I'm also in the Philadelphia area.

All, I put alot of thought and received different feedback from others. I built my 31" working height table from a cut down metal warehouse rack and topped it with plywood covered by a softer 1/8" material (I forgot the name). As the light weight stiff compressed top wears out I glue down another 4x8 foot sheet of it. Bottom line: 1'm 5'11 inches and my perfect standing working table height is 31". When I want to sit at the table I use a very comfortable bar stool that I can rest my feet on. Great idea using the leg extensions on the two folding tables! JOE

All, Did you use plasti-dip or plastic coating (liquid or aresol can) to modify walking outside and inside feet. I need to test a running jump or kick needle double compound Singer. Feet are mostly out of circulation after 103 years following production date. I intend to adequately mount the two feet and needle (100x16D) with a 21 or 22 number eye opening. The "D" desiginator represents diamond. Then I thread with #138 (T-130?) and begin the timing and diaganostic process of which I am simply enjoying in learning the basics of the sewing machine works/mechanics. Just another rabbit hole I find myself in again...one day I will sew leather using a machine! Thanks, Joe

The bottom rod running from pulley to the head works was stuck. Also the three vertical foot and needle shafts were stuck. With a pint of mineral oil, time and working the movement back and forth, it eventually started moving. I need a new leather treadle belt...then I will give it motorized power. Not sure what follows.

I like to wear a very small red led light powered by a watch battery on a necklass. I'm going to make a belt worn flashlight/multiplyers/tool pouch for a friend. Thanks for the reminder!

I'm thinking about sinking the intact vintage machine into a ultrasonic cleaner. I think my tank would require turning the Singer 78-1 onto its head then turned onto its tail. Has anyone heard of a success or failure for this short cut cleaning system on a 103 year old Singer? Or...I will start a clean up campaign for a while.....Or I can use a shop vac and compressed air hose fitting and blow out and vac the crud with the pint of mineral oil soaking on the machine right now. I can't believe I'm doing this. I started out making belts as gifts. Now I want to try to move a bit faster on sewing machine. I only hand sewed. I have never used a sewing machine in my life. The quicker I get the dirt out is the quicker I get to sewing! JOE

Hello from Philadelphia! I found the bobbin case and bobbin. The machine is 103 years old. Does it make sense to get a new bobin case and shuttle? Would this be an assumed part to replace when dealing with vintage machines?

I'm confused by the layout of the older singer manuals. Is the class 15 bobbin case and shuttle lock the same for multiple Singer vintage sewing machines? I read the bobin was a "size M." How many bobbins and bobbin case and shuttle lock should I have on hand? Two would be better? Any guidance on this baby step to my 1st sewing maching would be appreciated. Now remind me why I bought a 103 year old top/needle feed jumping foot (walking foot minus the bottem race track) again as my 1st maching? I think I'm getting into learning about the fine workmanship and engineering from when we were a world at war.

I put the bobbin case (224841) and the shuttle (37854) or assembly (37855) in zip loc baggie and tucked it away in a safe place. I swear I'll get religion today...Passover and Easter all in one shot...if I can find it. However, I have the parts book printed for the 78-1 and am looking for the parts. What other singer machine has compatable shuttle bobbin case and shuttle. The 78-1 uses M sized spools (2996). I might be off on the part numbers. Any assistance is appreciated. Is this the same assemble for the 31-19 and 31-47? Any recommendation on where to procure? I'm looking at ebay. Joe

I'm going to take this in small bites...and see if I can have a little tinkering fun!

Thanks Wizcrafts! I think I will keep scrubbing with mineral oil. I don't want to disassemble anything yet. I think I want to get everything moving correctly then attempt to see if the machine is still timed correctly...or that is one of the plans. The other plan hasn't been developed yet. -JOE

I used a quart of mineral oil to unfreeze a 1920 Singer Industrial 78-1. Rust, gunk and dust...do I use compressed air and more oil or a vacuum and more oil to clean it up? Joe

Can you replace the cable with an inexpensive bicycle cable...crimp down both ends..

Singer 78-1 verses Consew 28. How thick will the Consew 28 sew? My research lead me to a youtube video. This Consew 28 looks very similar to the Singer 78-1. Is this the closest example I may find for compatable manuals? The old 1920 Singer Manuals don't have good parts diagrams.

All, Took a few tweeks using a chrombook and phone...I posted 4 pictures of the Singer 78-1. What got my attention was the three drop down components that comprise the jumping foot walking foot. I thank WizCrafts for assembling the links to discussions on this forum. I found most of the manusls I need...is there a service manual on this machine? Joe

So I attempted to re-size the photo's. This machine is the product prior to the 111W walking foot. I think it's called a "jump foot." Any info is apprecieted.

Bruce, I was thinking the simple green would help release the stamp easier....however, once the solution dries it looks great, stamp is set, and no staining. I don't know much about casing leather to make a good comparison. Joe

I followed FredK's process. I use a Harbor Freight press, liberly spray a 50/50 solution of simple green and water, let it soak in and in a few attempts I learned that too much pressure resulted in the outline of the entire stamp.

I bought the frozen Singer Model 78-1. It could be a 78-3. I have no clue. I'm going to get it sewing two layers of 8 ounce veg tan. This is the jumping foot...not walking foot. MFG: Jan 1920. I oiled it generously with clear mineral. No badges, just ser#. I forget how to resize pictures to attach. Anyone familiar with this industrial machine.

I found a vender on eBay. Froto recommended him. Looked for brass stamps. I also use a H.F press.

Gulrok, I'm in Philly. Do you have a leather sewing machine? Joe

What is a jerk needle?

YinTex, Yep...been a while. I used a general set of Chinese water stones. Took hours working up to 8k. I learned a ton of lessons. I have two Old Osborne Round Knives and they are razor sharp after stropping with green past from Harbor Freight. Thanks for asking. Joe