AlamoJoe2002

https://www.mcmaster.com/ McMaster-Car is one of the largest everything suppliers I can think of. Joe

https://chemicalsafety.com/sds-search/ This is a link to a Safety Data Sheet (SDS) database. Put in your chemical information and a SDS should be found. The importance of this data sheet is it lists all chemicals in the product and provides details on injuries/fire and other details. As a side note, this used to be called the Master Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). Now the commercial accepted nomenclature is "SDS." You can look up the product, view the constituents (products used in the manufacture) then make a few decisions if it doesn't tell you the exact thinner to use. I hope this helps...you can use it for dog shampoo to floor cleaner to car polish...all manufactured products today are required to have an SDS. The fire departments conduct inspections on the SDS in the commercial manufacturing industry. It's a must have...especially, when one gets something in the eye. The SDS has all the 1st Aid Information. Joe

@Leatherfan10, Are you looking for other writers for submissions? My perception is focused on the new leather worker. Let me know what credentials you require...I'm not a professional writer however, I have a solid background in technical writing with a science based organization that pays the mortgage. -Joe

Nice. Did you embed a wire or are snaps used to secure in place? JOE

I'm focused on my edge work. I'm now using refillable Montana 15mm markers: https://www.amazon.com/Montana-Acrylic-Empty-Marker-045475/dp/B006ZM19P2/ref=sr_1_5?crid=7G3KERUURFSE&keywords=montana+refillable+marker&qid=1664026879&sprefix=montana+refillable+marker%2Caps%2C339&sr=8-5 I use these to apply water, liquid saddle soap, full strength Flebings Dye and now am considering using a refillable marker for applying resolene in my last step of edge work on 12-14 ounce belts. I use a dremmel burnishing wheel in between applications to smooth the edge. I'm not at the glass stage with the natural, no dyed edges yet. I burnish with the dremmel then finish the pass with denim. Do you have any good or bad comments on using the marker to apply resolene? I'm using full strength. Do I dilute it or is a simple full pass or two the way to go using full strength. Guidance to include failures requested...along with your successes. -Joe

StickHer, I like to use a Stanley or box cutter knife with premium blades. I strop the blade often on a strop made from a wooden paint can stir stick. Always strop the blade and you won't have to change it often. I use the Harbor Freight Green Compound stick on my strop....it's good and inexpensive at HF. Also, pick up a poly hammer with the screw in heads at HF. Good tools to start with. Oh, don't buy sand paper from HF. It is pure junk. Get good 3M sandpaper. -JOE

Stewart, I'm not a painter or a carver. However, is there a product you could scrub down and restart to get your grove going again? Or better yet, get your grove on working on a new piece. What say you? You have more skill than I do. JOE

@DaveP, Nice work. I love the handle. I think your stitching is perfect. How long did you spend making the sheath? -Joe

@Gezzer Hah...nice work! @fredk Tracking! @Northmount Legendary genius!

I have the exact buckle in 1 1/4 inches from Buckle Guy currently on a 12-14 ounce belt. Nice weight to it. It's a good product...however, it has a minimal foot print and doesn't present well on a beefy belt. I used it as a trial piece to eliminate making a keeper for the belt. -JOE

I'm also learning. What function using "@so&so" are you trying to accomplish? Is it restating previous text in a box to reply to? -JOE

Great concept. I wonder if 12 gauge shotgun rounds would be too heavy. I'm also inspired to make a hat band. Great reading for a Saturday Morning Coffee! -JOE

I'm learning about my Draw Gauge. I'm cutting 12-14 ounce straps from a side of skirting. I read a great tutorial from Bruce Johnson's Web-page. I'm going to try the grip he demonstrated in pictures on my next cut. He emphasizes safety and the dangers of this cutting tool. Has anyone put a handle on the typical blade available. I bought a reworked and rounded off blade from Bruce and it shaves hair...however, it still takes me two hands to pull thru the skirting. I'm thinking a handle on the blade will make it easier when I strop it as apposed to clamping it in a pair of needle nose vice grips. Joe

Good feedback Bert. I have two vintage blackjacks. Both have wear from use. They were issued to the Police in Philadelphia back in the day. They were given to me from a family friend. I don't know how to lighten up the color...however, they look nice and will reflect a bit of wear from use. I recommend a sealer once you determine your color change. -Joe

TomE, I got the Osborne Round Knife enscribed "VA Ortho" and the Military Issue Draw Gauge from Bruce Johnson. Long story short, I needed a good blade for the draw gauge and we got to talking. One thing led to another and I sent him a US Flag I wore on my uniform on a trip to Afghanistan. So...I jumped at the chance to get the military issued items. The VA Ortho inscribed knife is my favorite. -Joe

Marine, Great write up and step by step presentation. Thanks for taking the time to talk thru the process. Nice work! Joe

Brindal, I use an older Osborne Draw Gauge that is shaped like a gun so you can wrap your trigger finger around for better control. I also have a non-typical 6" bar (typical is 4") that I cross my arm over the top of the draw gauge and grip and pull with two arms and other hand using the 6" bar. I'm cutting 12-14 ounce leather side skirting and it takes a bit of power even when my blade is sharp enough to shave. I've learned to start the cut with a Stanley knife then set the blade into the starter cut and start pulling. Even with the sharpest blade I can't pull thru the skirting with out clamping the starting end down. I have to read more on the proper angle of setting the blade into the draw gauge. You can find these on Ebay...and other sellers. Some tilt the blade forward and some tilt the blade to the rear. Oh, the 6 inch Draw Gauge was US Military Issue. I have that in addition to a US Military Issue round knife. Both made by C.S. Osborne. -Joe

I picked up a Harbor Freight model airbrush kit to try my hand at airbrushing. I have a loud 2 gallon air compressor that I fill an 11 gallon portable tank up to anywhere between 75 and 100 psi. More than enough air to fill air up a car tire or two. I haven't tried the air brush yet. I can set the loud tank outside and run a line into the shop to operate out of the 11 gallon air reservoir. I'm waiting for my 2 gallon tank to burn out before I purchase a quieter air pump. What psi are you operating your airbrush for dying leather? Joe

How about grinding the round handle into two flat parallel sides. You could feel the flat side with you finger opposite you numb thumb. -Joe

BladeGrinder, I use a multi head hammer. Poly on one side for tapping down glue and a brass head for stamps and hole punches. However, I needed more weight on the hammer head so I wrapped unsheathed copper wire then covered with black electrical tape. Works well for me and I can find screw on replacement heads easily online. I never tried a maul or deadblow hammer. -Joe

Chris, where are you from? I'm in Pennsylvania, USA. This is against the law to carry in my state. You can get a permit for a firearm but a blackjack, sap or club is bad news. Oh, I'm not an attorney or in law enforcement. -Joe

Sabrina, nice work. Can you tell me how many years of experience you have? -Joe

Thanks all. I cut my belt straps off a side at 60 inches then trim down to fit. I like the idea of a set of boards and a few clamps to hold the work on the table top. It seems most belt burnishing is by hand...maybe the power option is just a sales gimmick...all I know is a long strap (belt) + wood lathe burnishing = wasted time. I'd like to hear more techniques. -Joe

Steve, That is a great presentation and description of your process. Nicely done! I could go out and buy a tool but I like the tinkering process and always feel good when I'm using the tools I made. -Joe

Hello, I attempted to use my wood lathe with a wood burnisher I made. This process didn't work for me...the newly made leather belt moves around and I wasn't able to provide proper tension to get the results I wanted using only water as a test run. I concluded I may use a hand held dremel tool with a burnisher attachment or just go with hand burnishing as I'm learning the process. I'm in the process of making (designing) a full length belt holder with a clamping mechanism to sit on my work table. Could you share your ideas and products that you use to hold the belt edge up for burnishing. I found a few ideas on youtube and searched our leather worker forums. I would like to hear your thoughts, ideas, pro's and con's. -Joe