TomMeyers

I put just simple masking tape on the finished side.

I don't know about grain direction in leather. But I had a concern about stretch of a strap and I layer a sewing reinforcement sf101 and it made a big difference.

Here is what I did: Folded and created a seam. Used contact cement. Put stitches all around no butt or baseball. The bond is surprisingly strong. I hammered after folding and got a nice edge. Skived for the buckle fold. Two layers after folding made it a bit thick. Reinforced the skived area with a thin and strong liner. The skived area got a little stretchy without it I'll save the baseball stitch for another project. I also tested all this on a 2 foot scrap before implementation.

I am using heavy chrome leather on a purse and for the strap. 2-3 mm chrome leather; firm. I plan to make the strap by folding over and butt joining in the center of the length then edge stitching. I plan to use either a baseball or butt stitch. My concern is that either of those stitches uses a hole that is not perpendicular to the leather. I think I risk the thread tearing the hole. I have choices hole punch ( perpendic.,,), Chisel perp. Or angled. Suggrstions for holes and stitch? I could also not butt stitch and put another row of stitches. Tom

Here is what I found/did: I used flesh2flesh for the panels and added small patches of tandy board on each panel 1" from edges and .5" from folds. I works great! The outside stretches the inside compresses. That's ok because the folds are permanent unlike the in a bifold wallet. If I make this again I will use, probably, goat on the inside and use more tandy board near folds and maybe a startched reinforcement over all. The bag has way is named "structure". I used gray waxed thread thick. Got an interesting result,: before hammering it was nearly invisible after hammering the gray became lighter but not boldly. I didn't use contrasting because I was afraid of exposing my errors - I could have since my stitching seems to have improved. Tom

I am making a purse with a flap; it is a single piece : front, bottom, back, top, flap. I have planned to use 1.5 (,maybe 2.0) mm glued flesh to flesh 3-4 mm). The pieces are pretty firm but on each of the 5 sections I will imbed stiffener/tandy. On the panels but not in the folds. It came to me that it gets folded into it's box shape I might have a problem that comes up in bifold wallets that are f2f them folded. I did some tests on scrap and it seems ok : the inside piece compresses some and the outside stretches some. The wrinkles are minimal. The two pieces will be hand stitched at their edges and the two pieces will be glued f2f. What are your thoughts on durability, do ability?...; Similar to bifold wallet. Tom/Dominican Republic

I have this Rex #27 press and it came with a variety of rivets but I suspect that the anvil is missing. The post on the bottom is a tube and it is on a spring. The upper pressing part is non-removable and has a dimple; maybe for splash rivets. Any suggestions for use or other info appreciated. I am thinking of 3d printing a piece to hold a metal anvil on the bottom and maybe similar for the top. Tom

My first thought Is a welt like a shoe sole and capture the piping. The piping will hide the raw edge the fabric can be turned. Or, roll the leather edge and sew without piping.

If you can't find them you could have them 3d printed.

That's what you get for 150-200$US in the Will store.

I double checked: inkscape can output in dxf format. Here is a link with some info. Download inkscape it is free. Tom

Sewing fray stop liquid.

Frodo, from a paper drawing? Lines? How about a photo of it. I would use inkscape. Free and easy. Tom

Thanks, I have a diode laser engraver and I never thought it could shape plastic. I have used it to cut leather and engrave leather. I am going to try the plastic. Tom 5 w diode Lasergrbl Fusion 360 Thank you

I agree: it should be shame on me! If I submitted to begging.