327fed
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Posts posted by 327fed
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I have a long magnet (maybe 16 inch) made to mount tools on a workbench. It is strong enough to not move if stuck to the machine bed as a guide.
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Can find the orphan drawers sometimes in antique shops.
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It is smoother and has ammo loops on opposite side. However, it makes it awfully wide to get pants cuff down over it. I am going to make another base strap without cartridge loops to make it narrower. The holster pouch is just attached with Chicago screws for now.
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Thanks to you Frodo and all our veterans.
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The point I tried to make, and I am sure the original poster of this thread is not needing all this, is what change in speed would you get for the same machine from original setup with 3/1 speed reducer VS changing the original handwheel to the larger pulley setup? Not sure what the machine in question had for handwheel diameter to start out.
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I think the pulley change is great if it works for you. In my case (Consew) I could not find machine shaft size without pulling off. I figure metric on a Japanese machine. Lots of SAE pulleys here, metric not so much. I could not figure how to release handwheel. I guess they have setscrews I could not find. I figured I needed to use a pulley puller which might damage handwheel. I have no idea where I would get handwheel replacement if damaged. I made my own reducer and someone here said I should have bought a factory one. Everyone here has a different situation. Shop skills and tool availability, access to commercial sewing machine dealers, hobby or sewing commercially, international access to parts and supplies, broke or not. I applaud your resourcefulness just maybe not for everyone.
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Taper loc pulley sets ain’t cheap. Also you can’t get as much speed reduction that way. Going from a 4 inch to an 8 inch handwheel only gives a 2-1 reduction, while the commercial speed reducers are something like 3-1.
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I really wanted to do that but could not find info on machine shaft diameter. Would have to take machine apart and wait to find correct pulley. Looked for larger factory handwheel as well for a long time. Also a pulley is not as comfortable as a handwheel and chance to get finger between pulley and belt. So I went with the speed reducer and it works well.
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Some stuff you can’t stamp after( or I don’t know how). For example the front of a holster as the leather is folded and no hard surface to stamp. Other items perhaps.
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If you are running slow might not matter.
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Yes. Either redrill holes or you might find another pulley with longer center that might extend past shaft enough.
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I got some too. Great condition and price, Bill is great to work with.
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I missed the price.
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Thread exchange.
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Pm me a list please. Thanks.
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Anybody ever used a wood router for burnishing? I have a couple of extra routers and a router table. Would be less footprint on the bench. Would it be too fast? Are there burnished wheels that would fit in the router mandrel? Seems like they are 1/4 inch. My drill press I normally use is in another building.
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Beginners need good equipment worse than old hands do. Get frustrated easily without the correct tools and quit.
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Old people here used to cook with it. Big seller was 5 gallon “lard stands” to store it after rendering. Makes a great but greasy fried pie Still a lady here that sells homemade lard fried pies. When times got hard lard sandwiches were made.
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Anybody got this pack? Wonder what shoulder holster is included?
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My Consew does not have the stitch length indicator guide on the handwheel. Anyone remember which rotation direction lengthens the stitch?
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Might try this bottle opening aid. Have to use these to get into Dr. Peppers now.
Arbor press
in Resources
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Wonder if the magnets you rub on a screwdriver to magnetize it would be powerful enough to magnetize the arbor?