MtlBiker

@kgg @Dwight and @bladegrinder - Thanks for your comments. I forgot to check last night when I got home, what the product is that I've been using for leather prep before applying dye, but it was some commercial product. Used to de-glaze the leather and remove contaminants. Until now, I never thought of using NFO before dyeing. I'm going to have to give it a try. Thank you all.

I just saw the latest Sailrite how-to project... just a simple waxed canvas and cordura dopp bag, with leather accents. For all the leather accents they said to apply Neatsfoot oil BEFORE the Fiebings Dye. That surprised me as I'd always thought you apply the oil (if not using a different product) after dying the leather. Is doing it their way common?

It's just a hobby for me too, a passionate one mind you. Are you really doing the cut/tie together thing? For me, it would take just as long to do that as to actually thread the machine in the first place. Easy-peasy. The only time I ever do the cut/tie together routine is with my sergers, as I find threading those to be a real PITA! Your work area looks just like mine, except yours is neater.

I'm surprised you say you'd never buy two spools of thread... even if I only had one machine I'd want at least two spools. I wind my bobbins off the machine, using a home-made winder and I just don't want to unthread a machine and then rethread after winding a bobbin. And unless it's a color I rarely use, when I wind bobbins I always do half a dozen at a time. But having two and a half industrial machines (my Sailrite LSZ is the half) I actually always buy at least 3 spools at a time. And almost always the 1 lb spools.

@Greenwood - Even easier... if you look at the seller's post, click on his name in the left and that'll bring you to his profile. From there, at the top is a "Message" button. This saves you having to type his name.

The needle shape point and most secure stitch are two different things. The needle shape point is determined by the material you will be sewing and in your case with chrome tan leather, it should be a leather point needle. 135x16 needle system is leather point and 135x17 is for fabric.

I think that's a bit overkill. 2-2.5oz chrome tan leather is pretty thin and very soft and v138 thread will certainly work but I think I'd use v92 instead. Heck, even v69 should work. And I'd use a good brand like A&E Sunstop bonded poly thread. Stay away from the cheap import thread. v92 thread would let you use a #18 or #20 needle. On my 2750 I tend to use only v92 (and only very rarely v138). I also like Amann Serafil thread, but mostly use the A&E because it's high quality and easy to obtain locally for me.

Welcome! That's really nice work! (For anyone, but especially for someone who only started a few months ago!) All hand-stitched?

You didn't like the honest and experienced advice you were given here?

More sturdy? You mean rivets or something else? The solid copper rivets from Aaron Martin are probably as sturdy as you could ever get. And they're often used in horse tack. What kind of buckles are you looking for? JT's Outdoor Fabrics has all kinds and I've bought from them often.

@Margherita - Did you check out any of the suggestions I gave you in the private discussion? As far as rivets go, it really depends on what type you're looking for. For tubular double-cap rivets, I am really happy with Kamsnaps (from the US) and their service and support is really good and the shipping is quite reasonable. For solid copper rivets, I go with Aaron Martin as @jcuk suggested.

May I ask why you want/need that? I have an LSZ-1 with WorkerB motor and Monster wheel and the belt (short as it is) is a cogged belt unlike what's on my other industrial machines. I can't imagine a need to change the pulley size on these machines. Is that what you plan to do?

@Margherita - Not much to add to what's already been said. Yes, I think $195 installed for the servo motor is a good deal. And it eliminates any frustration you might have in changing the motor. Definitely go for the servo! Quieter and much better control. And if it's a standard table, I'd also say to keep it. Would 8" really make much difference in your space? And the cut certainly wouldn't be on the right side of the table but rather on the left and even with a full size table you will sometimes wish you had more flat space there. Sounds like the dealer is really going the extra mile to make the sale. Best of luck to you!

@Margherita - After checking out some reviews of that machine and watching the video you linked to (thanks) I think this might be a really good machine for you. I don't understand how the stitch length works with a button and no dial or lever, but I guess it does. Nice things are that it's got triple (unison) feed, a safety clutch and those older Jukis are built like tanks. I'm pretty sure you'd be able to sell it in a year or two without losing much (if any) money. Juki machines probably hold their value better than any other brand. The six month warranty is good, but remember that the machine (even just the head without motor) is really heavy and you'd probably have to take the head off the table and bring it back to the dealer. But luckily there are lots of repair/maintenance videos around and parts are readily available. Besides, the experts here are always willing to offer helpful advice. I do agree with @kgg about trying to get a standard table with the machine even though you're limited in space. Make sure the machine is in good operating condition and that the dealer shows you how everything works. I'd say go for it. One more thing... if the dealer gives you a good price on a servo motor (in case it now has a clutch) and will install it, see if he could possibly install a smaller motor pulley, like maybe 45mm. You don't need a speed reducer and the smaller pulley really helps with slow speed sewing control.

@Margherita - Have you seen this thread from about 3 years ago about that machine?