MtlBiker

Thank you. I guess that makes sense. For my waxed canvas apron all the stitching so far has been with a fabric needle but I'm about to sew a couple of leather pieces on it. I'll switch to a leather needle and complete the rest of the stitching with it, leather or waxed canvas. I'm sorry Fred... are you talking about a MACHINE leather needle needing to be sharpened? I guess it wasn't clear from my post, but for this project I'm using a machine. I've never heard of sharpening a machine needle before. And harness needles for hand stitching leather don't need to be sharpened. So I'm a bit confused about what you mean.

I get it... when sewing leather you use a leather needle and for other fabric you use a regular needle. But what if you're sewing something like a leather patch (for a pocket) onto waxed canvas? Does it really matter or make any difference if I stitch it all with a regular needle? In case the waxed canvas affects the answer, what about if you're sewing the leather onto something like denim? Am I over-thinking this? (I'm making the workshop apron that Sailrite just posted a video about, and instead of vinyl pocket they were doing, I'm using a piece of chrome tan leather.)

You did really well! Good job! Is there a closure for the flap? What kind of leather did you use? How did you make the stitching holes? (A novice wants to know! )

Thanks for catching my novice error and understanding that I'd really meant "welt". But I'm nowhere near competent enough at this stage to punch through three layers perfectly aligned. Which is why I liked the idea of using a drill as per the Weaver Leather video. And if I do glue all layers together first as I'd planned, I'm back to the problem of being able to punch my chisel through them all, in perfect alignment. I'll get there... but it'll take a lot more practice and experience first. I'm really liking the idea of pre-marking where each hole should be and then using an awl held in a drill press to keep the holes perfectly perpendicular. I'm going to bring an awl in to work with me tomorrow (yes, I work on Saturdays) to see how/if I can fit it into our drill press chuck.

@Hags and @tsunkasapa - The tutorial video where I saw this is by Weaver Leather. Supposedly folks with lots of experience. I'd never seen that done before and I was surprised. But with such a thick assembly it might be worth considering I thought. I'm still learning hand stitching and while my awl sharpening is getting better, I'm concerned that I might not be able to make proper holes using my awl. And for something like an axe sheath, the aesthetic of nice (what do you call it?) slanted stitches might not really be required. Probably I could, as I could also complete the stitching by machine. But I'm trying to learn technique here. And I think that using a drill press, slowly and carefully, after the hole positions have been marked, might be easier to control than if I did this by machine. But I'm a novice, just looking for best ways. Unfortunately, I don't have access to an oil derrick. When I tried using an awl on my last practice project with 3 layers of 6oz veg tan, I found it impossible to punch through all layers properly in position and straight. Also my glued gusset was twisted out of position by my pushing with the awl. My awl probably wasn't adequately sharpened at that point and maybe now with a much sharper awl it wouldn't be so tough. Maybe I should give it a try, especially since it's a practice project. But still, I wouldn't want to mess it up. @Handstitched The problem I see with both using a drill press or the sewing machine without thread to punch the holes is that the holes are round instead of diamond shaped. So, while both those methods would work probably the most attractive result would be with proper diamond shaped holes. Also considering using a drill press vs the machine to make the holes, it might be very difficult for me (at this stage in my learning) to keep the machine stitching holes exactly where needed, very close to the edge of the assembly. I'd say that would be particularly tough if the item was also wet molded (but this project isn't). A drill press with pre-marked hole positions probably would be better. @chuck123wapati - My awl is MUCH sharper now than earlier. I've been practicing and practicing with the sharpening. I guess I'll just have to give it a try, because I do agree that proper diamond shaped stitching holes make it look much better. Although the axe sheath that Weaver Leather made using the drill press looked really good. I think that's a terrific idea! I just need to figure out a way to hold the awl securely in the chuck. I do agree that round holes are not ideal. @kgg - That's a great idea! Plus if my awl is not quite as sharp as it should be (I'm still learning how to sharpen it properly) the drill press would give me better leverage to push through multiple layers and keep the hole properly perpendicular. I just have to find some way to hold the awl in the chuck and then of course make sure it stays in the correct orientation so that the diamond shaped holes are all (awl) proper.

YouTube is full of helpful videos and I admit that most of (the little) I've learned about leather working and sewing in general has come from those videos. Plus of course the outstanding help and advice of members here. But often there are completely opposite views and for a novice it's hard to figure out the best approach. For example, one of my next projects is to make a sheath for an axe. No big deal, right? This was going to be mostly for practice with hand stitching which I'm just getting into. Anyway, I'm going to have three layers of leather... front and back pieces plus a gusset, and I'll be using either 6oz veg tan or 8oz (I have pieces of both). So it's going to be pretty darn thick! Either 18oz total, or 24. I just watched a video which showed a way of making the stitching holes that I hadn't seen before... they used a drill press with a 1/16" drill! Round holes of course, but all neatly lined up. That was of course after marking where the holes should be. All I've done so far is to use stitching chisels to punch through all layers if I was able to, or just part way to then finish the holes with an awl. Would any of you even consider using a drill (press) to make the stitching holes? (The only time I ever did something this thick before, I used my Techsew 2750 and it came out very well, but I am trying to improve/learn my hand stitching.)

Thank you! I didn't know about that supplier. They've got the product and the shipping was reasonable. But because they didn't have a larger size, I ordered 3 of the 4 oz bottles. Plus a corner punch that I'd been wanting.

I'm really glad you listed using all those products to prepare veg tan for dyeing... I tried to find Fiebings Dye Prep here in Canada and was surprised that even Tandy Leather doesn't have it. I found it on Etsy, but it was a 4oz bottle for $13.75 plus $36.09 for shipping! Crazy! And on Amazon Canada it's $5.86 plus $16.75 shipping but delivery is over two weeks! So, I'm going to give the isopropanol alcohol a try, especially since I have some. But surely the Fiebings would have other things to treat the leather. I'm just not going to wait that long to get some or pay that much. We're really not doing well in Canada when it comes to leather working products. I didn't know about using a damp sponge on the leather before dyeing it. Thank you for all the helpful advice you've shared.

I just received my Osborne 21-3 edge creaser and it's not what I expected... I bought the middle size (#3, supposedly 3/32") thinking that as a first creaser it might be all I need. Well, I'm surprised to see that the part that (I think) is supposed to do the creasing is cutting sharp! Surely it's not supposed to be like this? What do you think?

Thank you! I'll give that a try, and I'll especially be able to compare once my dyed veg tan arrives on Thursday. Hmm... Your comment got me thinking that I'm missing something. What's involved in that preparation of the leather for dyeing? I've just been taking a damp sponge and (on clean veg tan) wiping the dye onto the leather. Am I missing a step? Probably good that I've just ordered pre-dyed veg tan leather.

@fredk and @Hardrada - Thanks very much! I've just ordered (to be delivered) a piece of the black and one of the tan. Each is supposed to be 15.25 sq ft. And thanks for the tip about the leather balm. I guess you apply that only to the outside? For items such as skiving knife and axe sheaths I guess I'll continue using un-dyed veg tan but for nicer pouches, AirPod Pro cases, etc. the pre-dyed will save me a lot of time. Months ago I'd bought some remnants from a different supplier and that's when I knew NOTHING about leather. Now I know just an itsy bitsy tiny bit... Is there some way (that a novice could use) to tell the difference between a dyed veg tan piece from a dyed chrome tan piece? Cheers!

The last time I visited my leather supplier he showed me some veg tan leather 4-5oz that was already colored. He had black, brown and tan. He said that it could still be wet molded. He calls it "Torino". And it sells for $6.25 (Canadian) per square foot. Other than the higher cost, is there any disadvantage to using this? I asked how it should be finished and he simply said it was up to me. (Novice that I am. ) IF those colors work for my project is there any advantage to getting this versus dyeing a veg tan myself? If I'm not mistaken he said the leather was more free of blemishes in the pre-dyed stuff. It seems to me that it would be a lot more convenient for me to use this instead of having to dye (and wait for drying, multiple coats, ) etc. myself. Thanks for any thoughts on this.

@Niki - I may be experiencing something similar to what you are... I don't have a lot of experience with leather yet, but I've had no problem dyeing some 5-6 oz veg tan on the few projects I've done. But I just tried with some 3.5-4 oz veg tan and after cutting out my pattern I used a damp sponge to apply Eco-Flo leather dye... the same dye I've used without problem earlier. And as the pieces of leather were drying they curled completely out of shape. Since this hadn't happened before with thicker leather I suspect either bad leather as was suggested to you, or something I did wrong when dyeing thinner veg tan.

You really need to oil this machine yourself manually. Every few (I think 8 or so) hours of sewing. It's very easy, especially all the oiling spots are identified with a red dot. At least most of them are. I always tend to oil a little extra in places which have motion. This model does not have any automatic oiling system (high speed or not), just some wicks and oiling spots. The 206RB-5 was my first industrial machine and I love it! I don't know how the model 4 is different but I'm sure it's a great machine. My suggestion would be to make sure it's in great shape and hasn't been used in a high volume factory situation. If it has a servo motor that would be great but you can always change a clutch motor to servo yourself for less than $150. Good luck!

Thank you. I'm going with the Osborne simply because I can get it easily here in Canada without paying exorbitant shipping charges (plus exchange rate and probably some duty). I don't mind if I have to smooth out some roughness. Would you suggest that getting the #3 (only) to start would be a good idea? I've never made a watch strap but would like to, plus some small pouches, billfolds and credit card holders.

Thank you. So, the distance of the crease from the edge is the same for all those different creasers? Hmmm.... does that mean the crease really starts at the edge of the leather? My understanding is that you use an edge beveler FIRST, before using the creaser. Is that right? I was hoping to get by with just two creasers but maybe I should consider the #1, #3 and the #5. Not going with an electric creaser for sure, at least not at this point in my leatherworking. My day job is an art gallery and picture framing business, so I'm particularly concerned with the "look" of an item. It needs to have class. So yes, I'm getting a creaser. Maybe 2 or 3. I'd like to try making watch straps, and also small pouches and billfolds. A creaser might let me "put another feather in my lap".

I'm thinking of buying an Osborne edge creaser, specifically the model 21. I see 5 sizes listed... are those sizes the distance from the edge of the leather or the depth or width of the crease? (Beginner question.) I don't see that explained on any of the web sites I'd seen with that product. Would a #1 (1/16") and #5 (1/8") be a good first choice for most cases? And about using the creaser, I've seen videos where the creaser is heated before creasing and others where the leather is made wet before creasing. Are there pros/cons to either method? Do you crease before or after marking the stitch line and stitching? I'm making some small pouches and card holders and would like to make the edges more attractive. Thanks!

@Danne and @Spyros - Thank you for that. I get Fiebings and Eco-Flo from Tandy and don't recall ever coming across other brands. I'll see if I can source one of the other brands here in Canada. But for veg tan leather the Fiebings is alright?

I know so little about leather and had never heard of Chromexcel. (Is that a Microsoft product? ...Excel? ) I guess the chrome tan leather i used for this is just too soft and flexible. Didn't work well at all with tokonole and my burnisher. But at least I got to practice hand stitching small items. I'm going to try what @Tugadude suggested... using Edge Kote. But I'm also going to do this project again with veg tan. Cheers!

I guess I should have tried Edge Kote. All I tried was tokinole and a burnisher and it didn't work well. Probably the chrome tan I used was just too soft and flexible. In any case, it was a learning experience and I'm going to try the same pattern/project again using veg tan. Thank you!

Maybe a good reason to cut down on your smoking! But since you've already sewn the case together, how would you be able to wet mold the top and bottom separately?

@Selvune - You're obviously more advanced than I am with this stuff... I thought I'd understood that wet molding was something that needed to be done before the stitching and burnishing. Would you please explain how you're going to go about it? I've only seen one video on YouTube where the case was just about completed (meaning stitched) without wet molding and then it was made wet and with fingers the leather was stretched out enough (slowly) to accept the item. Then it was allowed to dry with the item inserted. It looks like you've done a very nice job with the stitching. Are you using a pony to help?

Am I right that it's really difficult (maybe even impossible) to finish the edges of chrome tan leather? If that's so, maybe I should use chrome tan only for items where the edge is folded in and stitched (like bags and purses for example) and for things where the edge of the leather would be seen (maybe small pouches, wallets etc) I should stick with veg tan. I just made an AirPod Pro case using a beautiful red chrome tan leather in about 3.5 oz weight. And I haven't been able to finish the edges so that they're attractive. Maybe I just don't know how to do it. But I do know that veg tan would have been easier to cut to shape (especially for cutouts where the edges would be visible). Anyway, this project was just for me to see if the pattern was good and to give me something to practice hand stitching on. And I liked the red chrome tan.

Wow! Good for you!!!!

I hate to be a wet blanket, but it's very hard to sell and be profitable on Etsy these days. There's just too much competition and much of it is mass produced in a factory somewhere. People have a hard time appreciating the value of hand-crafted one at a time products. I'm planning to make a case like this myself (already bought the pattern and viewed the video before you posted) but I'm under no illusion that I can sell it profitably. Just for example, look at this leather case for the Airpod Pro. And personally I like this style better but making it is well beyond my skill level at the moment. What I like is that it's molded and when you open it, it's one piece rather than having to open the top flap of the case and then the airpod case. And by the way, the one I linked to is only about US$26. So selling one for $60 is going to be tough. But more power to ya!