MtlBiker

How useful is a flat or bevel presser foot for a bell skiver? I just got my new Consew DCS-S4 bell skiver and I understand there is a flat presser foot available. My dealer didn't know about it and said that in the last 20 years of selling those machines nobody has asked for such a foot. And he didn't have a part number either (and I didn't see it on the Consew site... only that it was available by special order). So my question (as a newbie) is how useful such a foot actually is. In what cases would you use one? My main use will be to skive leather for purses and bags... would I use it for those? The machine seems nice and I like that there is a "chute" for the debris to fall though, not just a hole in the table. I think it'll be pretty easy to hook up a shopvac to it, but I'll try first with a trash bin under the chute to see how much debris there actually is.

Welcome to the forum! I too have a Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium with WorkerB motor. I love it. If you're doing leather, I strongly suggest you buy the optional "knurled" presser foot and feed dog set. It may still leave marks on some leather but it's a lot smoother than the standard foot and dog set. I also added the folding table that Sailrite offers and I'm really happy with that too. It gives me a much larger work surface but most importantly with the machine recessed into the table it's much easier to feed larger fabric assemblies without having to deal with the "hump" of the machine being above the table. Their website does say the thread range is from home thread to v92 size, but I was assured by Matt Grant before I purchased that it can handle v138 just fine. All it takes is a little bit of tension readjusting and of course the appropriate needle. I haven't tried that myself (using v92 exclusively on that machine) but I have no doubt that it would work. And Matt said that it would work for the top thread as well as bobbin thread. I would suggest you install the monster wheel and try how you like it. It gives the machine more power (momentum) to punch through thicker assemblies and also lowers the low speed stitching which gives you more control for intricate work. My only nitt with the machine is the small domestic-size bobbin. I wish that was as large as on my industrial machines. For melting threads I use a Beadsmith Thread Zap II instead of a lighter because it helps me avoid burning the fabric/leather. Cheers!

You can buy envelopes of just 25 needles as I did... https://www.jjneedles.com/loose-and-bulk-needles/envelopes/saddlers-harness-needles-3.html£ £1.47 for 25 needles.... that's US$1.99 at current exchange rates. Even 25 needles, I'm told, would last years!

Consider this a public service announcement... I'm in Canada and have been searching for a source for these needles and the frustration I ran into was that even for as little as one pack of 25 needles at $10-15 US, the shipping to Canada was $30-35 US. I searched for a Canadian supplier and ran into the same issue... Only then it was 10 needles at $15, but again plus about $30 shipping. (I mean, gee, can't they just stick it into an envelope and charge a couple of bucks?) I found several sources and all charged crazy prices for shipping, even within Canada. Tandy Canada has an unknown brand of harness needles but they are out of stock of two of the three sizes they carry, and only have the largest size left. So just by chance in my searching, I ended up on the John James website in ENGLAND. Believe it or not, first of all they don't have a minimum order, but get this, I was able to order a pack of 25 needles of EACH of the 7 sizes they offer (I didn't know what size(s) I might need) and INCLUDING SHIPPING to Canada, I paid a total of 16 British Pounds (under $28 Canadian or $22 US)!!!!!!! For everything. That's less than the shipping alone from any supplier I could find in North America. So, before buying these needles anywhere else, check with the horse's mouth and go directly to John James.

I would. You can always turn it off if you don’t like or need it for a particular job. As as others said you can set it to always stop with the needle down in the material or up. If you do small items like pouches or wallets with sharp corners at least for me it was very worthwhile because you only want to turn your fabric assembly with the needle down. And particularly when less experienced that could be tough without EPS. And if you turn without having the needle buried you risk screwing up your job. I love having it and wish all my machines did. Something else I haven’t seen mentioned yet is that when you stop sewing and want to remove your assembly you can tap on the front edge of the foot pedal and the needle will move to the top position. No need to turn the hand wheel manually to do that. i hope this is of help.

Thanks for the very kind offer, Fred. But I've found a Canadian source for what I (think I) need. I really appreciate it though.

Thanks. I was going to order a pack of each of the three sizes they offer (because I didn't know which size would be best) and then something went wrong with their website... They were going to charge $40 for shipping!!! And I'd placed two other online orders with them this week, one for the leather gauge I wanted, and another for the Stohlman books. The gauge wa $8 shipping, and the books shipping was $16. $40 for three packs of those needles was crazy! I tried to call them and finally when I got to speak to someone I was put on hold until disconnected. I'll probably place the order but I'm not going to pay $40 to ship those needles. Something is wrong there. And as soon as I have time to wait on hold again I will try again.

Thanks, but I'm in Canada and shipping costs for something so small and inexpensive as needles it astronomically high. I'm trying to find a Canadian source.

Oh no!! More sharpening issues! That's a skill I need to do a lot of work on! I got the Stohlman books today so I've got my reading homework to do. Thanks for the help.

Thanks very much! I am surprised though that you say you use the same thread in your sewing machine. I would have expected the "slightly waxed" Ritza thread to mess up the sewing machine. Do you know the actual size of the needles you use? From my searching not everyone carries a full range of sizes and if there is a specific size to look for (for that .6 Ritza thread) then I'd like to be sure to get the right one.

@Tugadude - The most convenient source for me is Tandy Leather (here in Canada) and I am about to place an order for each of the three sizes of those harness needles that they offer (0, 000 and 4). I'm also going to order a stitching awl (my awl is a wood working awl and I think it's much thicker than a leather stitching awl). And I should probably buy some thread for hand stitching (practice and other projects). Tandy lists a bunch of different threads... what should I try? Ritza Tiger, Tejas Waxed, Waxed Nylon, Waxed Linen, or.... ??? The choices are mind-boggling to a novice.

Thanks for helping to keep me from making a mistake! I just looked at the RMLeather needles and the thread sizes mean nothing to me (inexperienced). Is there one of those sizes that you'd suggest for v92 poly thread (which I have to use to match the thread on the wallet)? RM's prices seem good, but geez, the cheapest shipping to Canada is US$30!!!!! For $10 of needles! (Actually I was ready to buy a pack of each of the sizes, but the shipping cost held me back. To the final cost I need to add Canadian dollar exchange rate plus most probably a little duty and brokerage. I guess I'll try to find another Canadian source... if I can figure out what it is I need to buy.

Since there doesn't seem to be a local source for any leather tools, I have to order online. I'm looking for my first needles for hand-stitching leather. Would these be a good choice from Tandy Leather? My Al Strolhman books are arriving today, as is a stitching pony. I've got a lot of reading and practicing to do before tackling my project. I've got a wallet under construction where the top stitching (by machine) has to be redone in a small 2" section. My plan is to use the same thread, v92 poly, and hand stitch that area using the same needle holes the machine made. So it's not with normal leather hand stitching thread (whatever that is, I don't have any). Thanks for your advice.

I'm going to try handstitching to fix/salvage this wallet. I've ordered a bunch of stuff, including Stohlman's books AND a stitching pony. I should have it all by the weekend and the will do some reading and practicing before I start on this wallet. I also received some Japanese skiving knives yesterday and should (with luck) have my new bell skiver on Monday. I'm going to have my hands full with learning and practicing. Too bad my day job is taking up so much of my time. Cheers!

It isn't a thread quality issue in this case... I'm using top quality A&E Sunstop poly thread. But I know what you mean as early on in my sewing I'd started with bargain thread.

This may be a silly idea, but why don't you contact them directly and ask for samples? http://www.chahinleather.com They do say they sell all over the world.

Dwight, what a great and super helpful message! Thank you! (I've also ordered Stolhman's book.) It's members like you who make this forum so valuable. I'll certainly give it a try the way you describe. Probably the best solution, especially since the bad section is really very short... less than 2 inches.

Thanks! I just ordered it. (My go-to source for books is just about always Amazon, and I was shocked to see this book there for $48 cdn USED!! I was going to say forget it! Then I did a further search and found that Tandy Canada was selling it for only $20, brand new! So I ordered that, plus all three volumes of Stolhman's Art of Making Leather Cases.)

I'm so much of a beginner with sewing that you'd never hire me anyway! So you CAN'T fire me! Most of that top stitch looks good, and I've removed the part that is wonky. I will try my best to restitch that area but first I need to figure out why the top thread frayed in the first place. It wasn't consistent... the first part of the top stitch was fine, as was the last part. Only a small section in the middle had a problem. Thank you for your advice.

Only problem with that suggestion is that I've never hand-stitched anything! I'm still very much a beginner.

In my opinion Sailrite has top quality machines, OUTSTANDING customer support, tremendous product and training videos and every one of my dealings with them have left me happy to be their client. Even though I already had two industrial sewing machines (flatbed and cylinder arm) for some reason I lusted after the Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium. I really had no pressing need for a portable machine, nor for zig-zag stitches, but I just wanted one. I came very close to buying one of the Sailrite clones but then was convinced by word of mouth, comparison videos and reviews that Sailrite was the way to go. And I'm super happy with my Sailrite. Is it the right machine for every job? No. But if that had been my first machine, very likely I would not have bought anything else, other than perhaps a cylinder arm machine (I do a lot of bags). I bought mine just before they introduced the WorkerB servo motor and I upgraded to that as soon as it was available. Completely transformed the machine and I can stitch one stitch at a time when needed. I love the machine! Of course I added one of their tables and that made it even better. From everything I've seen about the Leatherwork machine, it's great. Are there others? Of course. Consew, Juki and Cowboy, for example. But I don't think you can go far wrong with the Sailrite.

I screwed up on a piece I was working on... It's the outer part of a wallet, with leather on the outside and interfaced cotton on the inside. I'd stitched it together right sides together and turned it right side out through an opening I'd left in the middle of the lining (which will be hidden when I add the interior card slots and zippered pocket. I then top-stitched it and when I was done I saw that the stitches in one part were loose (don't know how else to describe it) and the upper thread was still working but was frayed above the needle. It was a brand new leather needle #20 (135x16) with v92 thread. The needle was correctly installed. I don't know what caused this problem but I'm going to install another new needle before trying again. Anyway, I'm wondering what you think about the possibility of fixing this. Or do I have to trash it and start over? I think it's next to impossible that I could match the same needle holes if I restitch. If I do try to restitch that top stitch, should I remove the first stitching first or leave it in place, stitching on top of it?

The conversion chart isn't the issue... that's easy! But the gauge I have is a vernier caliper and it really doesn't fit in a pocket. (Is that a gun in your pocket, or a ...?) In any case, I've ordered the gauge that Tandy sells. Should have it in a couple of days.

I know you're right about that, but some flaw in my head makes me really want accuracy in my "gadgets". I on the other hand, may not be that accurate in things I do. When I got my cylinder arm machine, brand new, I was bummed out that the stitch length setting wasn't accurate, and more importantly that the reverse stitch didn't exactly match the forward stitch. After attempts to readjust, it is better, but does it really matter than 4mm is really only 3mm? But it sure bugged me. For thinning leather again you're right... half is half, regardless of whether that's 1mm or 1.5 or even 2. But I know I will be comparing the new gauge with my digital vernier caliper(s) when I get it. (I do have two of those calipers and they are bang on the same.) Cheers!

That's a beautiful gauge! Still comes to over $100 cdn by the time exchange and shipping are added. If I had money to spare, I'd consider it, but for now I decided to order the Tandy one which here in Canada is just over $50. I'm hoping that it's worth the price compared with the $20-30 gauges on Amazon. But there's no way I could justify $100 or more for this. If it was my business, my livelihood, maybe. But as a serious hobbyist, and beginner at that, even the $50 was pushing it. I would have been happy with a gauge reading in metric only, IF I could be assured of accuracy. And I didn't have confidence in the cheap gauges and then I started thinking it would be cool to have an accurate gauge that was indexed in ounces, which prompted my question. Best regards...