MtlBiker

@Cali514 - Hi, and welcome to the forum! I'm also in Montreal. As @kgg said, I suggest the Adler shouldn't be your first choice. And for here in Canada the price sounds rather on the high side for that machine. (About 2 years ago I bought a brand new Consew 206RB-5 with table and servo for $1,300 Cdn.) And as far as the Techsew post bed machine goes, I'm not familiar with that model. It does look like a good choice in postbed machine... I like the high post and the compound walking foot and it seems to still be a current model. Techsew is also here in Montreal in case you didn't know. But I'd also suggest this wouldn't be the best choice for you, although if you are sure a post bed machine would fill the majority of your needs, it might be alright. Do you have any other sewing machine(s)? Knowing that would probably help us give you better advice. If you do not have another machine, then a cylinder arm machine with flatbed table attachment might be your best bet for a first machine. But there is NO one machine that would do everything. I don't make shoes, but I have often dreamed of one day adding a postbed machine to my "fleet". But it certainly would not be my first (or only) machine. Since you're in Montreal, have you checked out National 2000 for used machines? I haven't been there but have heard they often have a good selection of used machines. Do you have enough experience to know what size thread (and needle) you plan to use? If you want to chat offline, send me a private message and I'll share my contact info. Good luck with your search!

Doesn't the title of the message say "Singer 97-6"?

What's the make/model of your skiver? What kind of "weird noise" is it making? Does it sound like metal against metal, against the stone, or what? Maybe you could make a short video and show us?

@Tugadude, @RockyAussie and @Quade - The term "climbing mechanism" was a new term (and feature) to me. Thank you for explaining it. My "next" machine will surely have that!

Geez, you're really a walking encyclopedia of sewing machine knowledge! Thank you! So, according to the video I saw, this is something that you can change within a line of stitching. I've sewn over humps (some quite large) and really didn't have any trouble without having that feature.

I just saw a video of someone using a Techsew 4800 Pro and she kept talking about "engaging" the "climbing mechanism" but didn't show what or how she was doing it. I'd never heard of this before but it's something that lets the machine more easily sew over thicker sections (could be called a hump jumper). Can anyone explain what that is and how it works? And is it specific to the 4800 Pro or might my 2750 Pro also have it, unknown to me? Thanks.

I don't know how you're searching, but I buy all sizes of both 135x17 and 135x16 needles from Wawak. Go take another look. Even all three needles in your link show multiple size options.

@Ripper70 - A great source for needles, especially when they go on sale (often) is Wawak. Get on their mailing list and almost every week they alert you about specials.

Two thoughts: First, how did you manage to "fix" the hook timing? From my (limited but more than yours) experience fixing the hook timing is a rather intricate thing. If you really did it, I'm impressed. Second, you should be able to sew at extremely slow speed and the belt should not slip. If speeding up the machine stops the slipping, I suggest that's not the solution. The belt should not slip even at the slowest speed the machine can run at. I think you should readjust the belt tension.

@Fraulein - You are sewing with a machine, right? If so, and you say the smallest thread you use is 138 and that you have larger threads, it must be quite a beast of a machine you have. You may have trouble using a thinner thread in such a machine. Or do you have other machines available?

I don't know where to start. Is your needle inserted correctly? The long groove has to be at the left, and it's got to be perpendicular to the stitch line. I'd also like to see how the machine is threaded, from the spool right down to the needle. Didn't the seller spend any time with you showing you the basics? Also, just in case, you must never turn the handwheel clockwise! Only counter-clockwise, meaning turn the top of the wheel towards you. I suspect you at some point in your frustration turned the wheel the other way. I asked in an earlier message but you never answered... Do you know what the drop test is with a bobbin? I also would like to see how you have the thread spool inserted into the bobbin. And you MUST hold the thread ends in your fingers as you start sewing. Too easy to forget that (until it's a habit) and then get a thread jam. And are you sure the bobbin is fully inserted? It's got a little click when it finally is seated well. At this point I'd suggest you remove the thread and needle and see if you can hand crank the machine smoothly. Let us know and we'll proceed from there.

Just FYI, that's TEX70 (v69) thread. I've used it when I just needed a really small bit of a color. Otherwise I use bonded polyester, usually v92.

You've been given a great link about needle sizes. What you should know that your "DPx17" is exactly what "135x17" is. Just a different way to express the same thing. That refers to the TYPE of needle used in your machine. Also the "140" is just another way (Metric) to say size "22" (US). So, you need a 135x16 needle (in the right size) for leather and a 135x17 needle for everything else. And in either of those, you need a #22 size (140) for your 138 thread. A great source for buying needles and other sewing things is Wawak. Especially when they have their sales (often!). As far as needle brands go, many folks have their favorites but I think that Schmetz, Organ, Groz-Beckert are all good. Needles are cheap (especially from Wawak when on sale) and you should probably buy some size 22, 21 and maybe 23 and other sizes if you will use other than 138 thread. And you should get the leather needles (135x16) if you're sewing leather. And realize that needles need to be replaced often. Depending on how much you're sewing, maybe as often as every day. Or every 8 hours of sewing. Or when the thread starts to fray when going through the eye of the needle. Thread is another thing... I strongly suggest you stick with well-known brands and stay away from the cheap stuff. And go for the large spools (one pound) rather than the smaller ones to minimize the "curl" effect. Hope this helps. Good luck!

That's not a leather needle. You need a 135x16 (DPx16) for leather. The 140 (size 22) should be about right for your 138 thread.

Oh my! We certainly wouldn't want that to happen!

Part of the decision will be personal taste... what look are you after. Also depends on what material you're sewing... is the interior leather or something else? Will there be a different stitch/thread to attach the interior to the exterior? I think the answer to your question is that you need to try small samples of stitching with different threads and find out what you like. Your post sort of sounds like the only thread you have is 138... if so, I find it surprising. I most often use v92, but keep on hand v138 and even v69 for when needed. And anything less than v69, I switch to one of my domestic machines. Picking the right thread and machine for what is needed, plus what I like. I don't know if you've heard the expression... "If all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail." If all you have is 138, you certainly can use it, but it would probably be wiser to make tests on your material with v69 and v92 also. Show us your wallets when you're done!

You've got a big learning curve ahead of you! And I see you well on your way to being thankful you got a machine with safety clutch. It's far too easy to forget to hold the thread back when you start to stitch and way too easy to get a thread jam on the under side or worse, in and around the bobbin. And adjusting thread tension is a skill that some of us (pointing at myself here) had a hard time developing. Changing brands of thread, thread sizes, and yes, even color often means that thread tension needs to be readjusted. Do you know what the drop test is for bobbin tension? You will also find that if you have proper thread tension with a white thread (of any size) and you then switch to the same size/brand with a black thread, you will usually need to readjust tension. You'll do that by eye and by feel, which as I said, is a skill that needs to be learned. Is v138 the thread size you plan to use most of the time? And what needle are you using with it? And what are you sewing? Meaning do you use a 135x16 or 135x17 needle in the correct size? All that has to be learned. School of hard knocks coming right up!

The motor mount should be on curved slotted supports. Loosen the screws just enough so that you can move the motor and push/pull the motor until you have more tension on the belt. Probably the screws weren't tight enough and they moved during transport. And congrats on the machine! I hope it serves you well.

Just FYI, when I changed the motor pulley on my flatbed machine to 45mm, after installing I found there was a rhythmic sort of knocking sound, very noticeable at lower speed. I couldn't understand it. I'd bought that pulley from the same authorized Consew dealer where I'd bought the machine. I was convinced that my motor was defective. This was during Covid and it wasn't easy to even find a dealer who was open, but I ordered a replacement motor. When it came in, the first thing I did was remove the pulley from my old motor (without removing the motor from the table) and install it on the new motor. And with the motor on the floor, I plugged it in and ran it to test. I was very surprised that I had the same knocking sound with the new motor. I took off the pulley and ran the motor... perfectly smooth and quiet. I ran my old motor without the pulley and it too ran perfectly. I put the original pulley back onto my motor and it too was perfect. The problem is the 45mm pulley I had. The diameter of the inner part of the pulley was 30mm while the original was 27.5 and the original also was slightly tapered. And maybe the pulley wasn't properly balanced. I called the supplier of the new motor and he said that yes, it was a known issue and that a pulley had to be perfect. He sold me a "good" pulley and when I got it and installed, it was perfect. So, if you have any issues after installing, suspect the quality of the pulley first, before getting a new motor.

Yes, 2 spi is the longest stitch length the machine can do, not the shortest. Surely there's an industrial dealer in Tampa or Orlando, maybe even Lakeland. Call them. See if there's a used machine they have. Give them your name and tell them to keep their eyes open. The 206RB-5 is a great machine (I love mine!) but for you I really think a good cylinder arm machine with flatbed table attachment would be your best choice. My own cylinder arm machine came with a table attachment which was really horrendous. It was wooden and took way too long to attach and adjust. Removing it was easier but still the whole thing was such a pain that you wouldn't want to do that every day and certainly not several times a day. I've since bought an after market aluminum flatbed table attachment and it's a piece of cake to attach and remove. I have no problem changing back and forth every day or even more often. But luckily I also have the 206 so I rarely have to change... other than scooting my roller chair from one machine to the other. We're trying to save you money. Trying to keep you from buying a machine that would not be the most versatile for you, meaning you'd have to change it or buy another machine in the near future. Be patient, keep searching and for your first machine do try to get a used one, preferably cylinder arm. If you buy a new machine and it's the wrong machine for you, that would be even more expensive.

Is that used Cobra 26 no longer available? From what you earlier described as wanting to sew, the 3200 may be more machine than you need. And what do you mean by "... limited to 2 spi..."? That's the longest stitch that the machine can do, and it's really (probably) a lot longer than you need for your wallets and pouches. It can certainly do more stitches per inch than 2, without question. I can't believe you would ever need 2 spi for what you are making. More likely you'd use 4 max, maybe 6 or 8. I still think you should search for a good used cylinder arm machine.

FWIW, my first industrial machine was the 206RB-5 and I absolutely love it. But in making pouches, totes and purses I soon found the need/desire for a cylinder arm machine. One machine never seems to be enough! But as I said, if I could only have one, it would be a cylinder arm with flatbed table attachment. But believe it or not, I’m now drooling over a post bed machine. Once addicted, it never stops. My opinion, is that you will love the 206 if you get it but my crystal ball says you’ll be wanting a cylinder arm machine before a year is over.

@Spicytacoman - I know all about not having the budget to get what you want, SIGH, but one thing I've learned over the years is to do your utmost best to get the machine/product that most suits your intended use. It's false economy to buy the wrong thing and then find you need something better. Much more costly. I also agree with the comments suggesting that a cylinder arm machine (with flatbed table attachment) would be the ideal machine for what you intend to do. If I could only have/afford one machine, it would without question be a cylinder arm with flatbed table attachment. I started my industrial machine (habit) with a flatbed. And shortly after added a cylinder arm. If I had to do it all over again, I'd just get one suitable cylinder arm. Maybe you could negotiate a better price on that used Cobra 26? Maybe instead of buying what very likely is the wrong machine for you now, you'd be better off saving up your money and waiting until you can afford the right machine for your purposes. You talk about sewing "medium temper chrome tan at 14 oz"... is that just one layer or more? Whatever thickness you are using, you'll often be sewing double and even triple layers. And I'd also suggest searching for a good used machine... you seem convinced that new will get you less problems but unless the dealer you get it from is close by, you may not actually have less problems with new. If I was in your shoes I wouldn't hesitate to get a used one, especially with the help of the members here to help you determine if it's a good machine and worth the price. Best of luck to you!

The larger one, the top Sunstop is 8oz based on the marked length and the bottom one says 4oz, so that's a smaller spool. I've never used Fil-Tek thread but have been very happy with the Sunstop I've been using. Black is always thicker/stiffer than the other colors I find.

I don't know about the bottom one but the top one, Sunstop is NOT Bonded Nylon but rather it is Bonded Polyester. That's the thread I use just about always.