MtlBiker

For years and years we've (Canadians) become accustomed to things being much cheaper in the US than here in Canada even accounting for exchange rates, and I guess things have changed. The import tariff you mentioned is probably a huge factor but I am still surprised to learn there's such a big difference in pricing between our two countries. The difference seems to be almost double now. Geez. In my case with my machine, I didn't have to pay any shipping charges as the Canadian source is here in my city and I was able to drive there and pick it up myself. With the head removed, the table fit in my SUV without problem. I'm curious about how importing stuff like these machines works... does the machine come into North America directly to both Canada and the US, or does it go to the US (most common) and from there is shipped up to Canada. In the case of Consew, it seems the North American office is in the US, and if machines go to the US first and are then shipped to Canada, I'd expect them to be much more expensive in Canada. I mean, do the importers really keep machines destined for Canada in bonded warehouses without paying US import duties and tariffs and then ship them? If not, I'd imagine they must pay the US fees which are then tacked onto the Canadian costs. But for the price (when I bought) to be cheaper here in Canada than in the US, it would appear the machines come into Canada directly and not via the US. Just curious. Anyway this pricing difference has been an eye opener.

That's crazy expensive! That makes it very close to $2,000 Canadian. It's hard to believe that the machine is so much more expensive in the US than here in Canada. Usually it's the other way around. Out of curiosity, have you checked with any other dealers? There's no dealer in Florida close to you? Toledo has a stellar reputation but... I'd check around.

Please research further! I really don't think a 1206rb would be better than the 206RB-5. As far as I know, the 1206 is more of a high-speed garment machine and the oil pump is most efficient at way higher speeds than most leather sewers would use. So that's not an advantage. Also without a safety clutch you really run a risk of an expensive repair when (probably not IF) the machine jams up. And while I'm not in the US, based on what the machines sell for here, I'm pretty sure you would be able to find a NEW 206RB-5 for about $1,000 US including table and servo motor. (I paid CDN $1300 two years ago for a brand new one.) Also as others have suggested, a cylinder arm machine, especially if you can get an aluminum flatbed table attachment for it, is probably your most versatile option. Good luck!

Not to hijack this thread, but your comment about thread for heat resistant applications caught my eye... About two years ago, shortly after I started my sewing "hobby" I got it in my head that it would be nice to make some oven mitts after I saw someone with neoprene mitts where the stitching had come open on one. I offered to stitch them up, and at the time only having bonded poly thread, that's what I used. (It was for a girlfriend.) That got me doing a bit of research and thinking that it would be no big deal to get some neoprene and make mitts myself, I bought some thread from A&E specifically for heat resistant applications. I can't remember exactly what it was called, but I think it was Anesafe. I do remember that the one pound spool (idiot that I sometimes am) was frightfully expensive. Then I found I really couldn't source the neoprene (at least not here in Canada) in the quantity, thickness and style I wanted, so I shelved the idea. I should have sourced the neoprene before buying the expensive thread. SIGH I still have the thread though, and if I could find a reasonable source for neoprene I'd make some. The mitts my friend had had a bit of a pebbled finish on the outside and the inside had a fabric coating. If anyone could suggest a Canadian source for small quantities of similar neoprene I'd really appreciate it. Ordering from the States, with minimum order quantities, becomes really expensive when you add the exchange rate, shipping and import duties and taxes.

For the price you're talking, those are new machines, right? If so, what makes you think the 206RB-5 doesn't have a servo motor? I bought my 206RB-5 NEW, with table and servo motor for $1,300 CDN a couple of years ago. That translates to under a thousand bucks US at current exchange rates. Personally I'd pick the 206RB-5 over the 1206 mainly because it has a safety clutch which could save some serious repairs if the machine jams. And I don't like the automatic oiling either, mainly because at the relatively slow speeds most of us working with leather use, the pump wouldn't be as efficient. And properly oiling the machine is really fairly simple. Plus the 206 is a lot more common and if you're considering a used machine, probably a lot easier to find. Just make sure the machine is in good working condition and hasn't been beaten up on a high production factory.

@JohnJD - Since you don't list your location in your profile, guessing that you're in the US and talking US dollars, I think US$1000 was too much for that used machine. I'm in Canada and a couple of years ago I bought a brand new Consew 206RB-5 with servo motor for $1,300. That's about US$950 at current exchange rates. Brand new. Compound walking foot machine. Probably others here more knowledgeable about those Singer machines will comment, but I think you overpaid by several hundred dollars.

Have you looked at YouTube videos about how to adjust these skivers? It's really not all that difficult but must be done carefully. And since you would often need to adjust the skiver when/if you change the leather you're using, you'd be best off by learning how to adjust it yourself rather than sending it to someone for adjustment. It is a pain, but worthwhile. But maybe if you gave a bit more detail other than just "... I can not get it to skive anything..." someone here might be able to offer suggestions. Good luck!

@MainiacMatt - Google is your friend...

Interesting... I have a 206RB-5 and also a Techsew 2750 Pro and what I miss most on the Consew is a needle positioner. I've gotten used to it on the Techsew and I love it. What's involved in adding a needle positioner to my machine? New motor? Difficult, expensive? I mean I don't HAVE TO have it, but it would be nice.

What color is your thread? Some looks white (or light) and some dark. It's hard to tell if we're seeing the bobbin thread knot come up to the top. Are you holding your thread tail well at the start of sewing? What needle size are you using? Is it a good quality thread or junky off-brand? Show us some photos of how you have the top thread threaded in the machine. Do you have your bobbin thread inserted in the correct direction?

We really need a LIKE button here. Your posts are often such clear explanations and are very much appreciated. This is just another example.

@flyingpirate - Without knowing more about what you're doing... thread path, thread and needle size, etc. it's hard to diagnose what might be wrong. But the first thing to try is a new needle... when I get fraying like that on my top thread it's usually the needle that's at fault. You probably should also rethread the machine completely besides changing the needle. Make sure it's the right size for the thread you're using. Make sure it's a good quality thread and not inconsistent junk thread. Hope this is of help.

You don't think the sides were possibly sewn first, and then the bottom sewn in (with the bag inside out) and then turned right side out? You don't show the construction of the bottom in the photo you posted but that would be my guess. Sounds like you have the machines to do this with. But like you, I don't have a post bed machine and I keep toying with the idea of one day getting one. Do you have any other photos of the bad to show more of the construction details?

No, I don't think it's the same. The one I have is dacron polyester and very very thin (yet strong) and this one says "cloth tape".

Do I dare admit how badly I screwed something up? You guys will probably laugh at me. I screwed up with a messenger bag I was making, using 600D Cordura for the exterior and interfaced quilting cotton for the interior. I was fitting closure straps between the layers (at that point the straps were four layers of Cordura and there were three layers of Cordura (for body parts) and two layers of cotton with woven interfacing plus Decovil Lite interfacing - altogether pretty thick) and I was having an "oldtimers" moment and instead of fitting the straps so that when I turn the bag right side out the straps would be on the outside, I screwed up and they would have been on the inside. So I had to unpick the stitching around the straps. And the Cordura was weakened, sort of like perforated paper. I put the straps in the right way, and restitched. And then I noticed I'd screwed up AGAIN! One of the female buckles (of two) was reversed, so that the curve of the buckle was not following the curve of the bag. So I had to unstitch AGAIN. SIGH And now I felt the Cordura would be REALLY weakened. I almost thought to throw the thing away but I'd already put a few hours into it. That's when I thought of the tape. I applied it to top and bottom where the strap was (working on the wrong side of the bag parts) and stitched over all that. The end result looks fine and I'm pretty confident that it's structurally sound and that the strap won't pull out. The second photo shows the bottom straps with the female part of the buckles. (I hadn't put the interior in yet on the photo nor pushed out the seams yet. I'd just turned it right side out to see if it was going to be alright.)

As I said, I'd never used it before until yesterday. But the adhesive is really strong and it very likely could work well. But replacing glue? This is not double-sided adhesive tape... it's some kind of thin and very tough material with an adhesive backing. Peel off the backing and apply. I wish I could remember where I got it and what it is called. But I know for sure that it was from a lead here on the forum that I found out about it. I thought it was interesting so I bought some. FOUND IT!!!! I got it from Extremtextil in Germany. It is called (#72248) Dacron Polyester Insignia fabric adhesive tape, 20mm. It also says "Country of origin: TW" whatever that means. ExtremTextil Germany

Many months ago there was mention somewhere here about an adhesive reinforcing tape that would be used along seams when extra strength is needed. I bought some (white and black) at the time and I never used it until today. It's really good... peel off the backing and put it in place and it can either hide the stitching or reinforce it if you stitch through it. And I can't remember what the tape is called or where I got it. It's thinner than binding material and it's very strong (I couldn't tear it). And the adhesive seems really strong. If I'm not mistaken it came from Europe somewhere (Great Britain or Germany?). Any idea what this is?

You know this thread is about a year and a half old, right? The Sailrite 10 tooth cogged pulley is discontinued, according to their website. I was happy with my LSZ-1 with the original motor and I'm thrilled with how it works with the WorkerB servo motor. It give me great slow speed control as well as plenty of punching power for thicker assemblies. Not sure what your pulley would have actually improved, if anything.

@MainiacMatt - I've been buying bobbin cases for my Consew 206RB-5 from Wawak. Especially when they have a sale (quite often). I've found their bobbin cases work just fine. Currently their price is US$12.95 each but with the sales they're often 25% less. I like having spares and also like being able to adjust the tension for one thread (v92 for example) and generally not have to worry about it. And I adjust another bobbin case for v138. (And often black thread needs a different tension adjustment than other colors.) I figure the more you futz around with the tension adjustment on a case the more chance there is of something going wrong.

@ElFishbone - I haven't seen you confirm that you have actually changed from your #20 needle (that your first post says you use) to the #23 that's been recommended. Also you mention your 135 thread might be old and unraveled... have you tried new good quality thread? And do you know how to do the "drop test" on your bobbin to see if the tension is correct?

@MainiacMatt - I've used v138 bonded polyester thread on my Consew 206RB-5 a couple of times now, but usually stick to v92. I used it top and bobbin and it worked well (that was with two layers of about 6oz veg tan with a #24 needle. The only reason I don't use it all that often (besides not really needing it) was I always find it a pain to readjust the thread tension. Especially on the bobbin. Maybe I just don't have enough experience. I don' t know why, but I always seem to find it easier to adjust on my Techsew 2750. But even there I'd say I use v92 about 75% of the time.

Without good lighting (and close to the hole cutting die) for me it would be hopeless. Otherwise it's just about impossible to get the hole in the right spot. I get my eyes really close to it and very slowly lower the cutting die until I'm sure it's perfectly in position. Then while maintaining pressure on the handle, I swing my body around to get better leverage and just punch through. Even a small LED light would help, but I need lighting from both sides, otherwise (is it parallax?) I just can't get it right.

Which "KX" press did you buy? The KX-8 for $30 or KX-T2 for $40? (I have two DK93 presses.) With my presses I have never had any trouble centering, certainly not after a little initial practice. And I guess you're talking about punching holes, rather than setting rivets. There is an optional base available for the KX-T2 press if you feel that might help. If you're talking about punching holes (when setting rivets at least with the DK93 and appropriate die, it's pretty much self-centering) and getting them exactly in the right spot, what I do is carefully mark where the hole should go (if leather, I just use an awl, with other material a marker) and then (this is important at least for me) with GOOD LIGHTING I carefully lower the hole cutting die to the right position. It's really very easy, especially if you've done a little practice. Hope this helps.

I'm in Canada and bought my 206RB-5 about 2 years ago now, and I paid $1300 Canadian dollars at the time. Hard to believe that in the US the prices (as you report) are $1500-1600. But then again, I picked mine up and didn't have to pay shipping. Depending on how far from the dealer you are, shipping could certainly be several hundred dollars. Your price converts to about $2,000-2,150 Canadian. Did the prices really go up that much since Covid?

I think you're mistaken about needing a lubricated thread. And whether you use polyester or nylon really depends on what you're sewing and the intended use. For what I do, I pretty much stick with poly thread. And you've be best off buying only name brand threads, which give you much more consistency. Don't buy cheap thread from China! Take a look at A&E for example... they've got US and Canadian offices and their threads are excellent. I tend to use their Sunstop (bonded poly) thread more than anything else. Also check out the Thread Exchange for options. But stick with quality thread unless you like having headaches.