ButtonLady

Thank you for sharing your technique and experience, tsunkasapa. I think I'm most impressed by your specially adapted screwdrivers! I have a lot to think about as I move forward with this project.

Oops, forgot to mention I used T30 to T69 thread in my Juki 1541. It preferred bonded poly, but handled nylon much better after I loosened the bobbin tension.

I have the 1541 (not "S") from when I was sewing slipcovers. It was a new model back then; the safety clutch was not yet available. I used 8 -12 ounce cotton (canvas and twill) almost exclusively (not sure if that would be considered "lighter stuff"). Never had a problem with it. A tension issue turned out to be an overly tight bobbin —easily fixed. If I were still using it, I'd probably switch out the loud clutch motor for a servo.

Also clever! I wasn't even thinking about keeping the leather flat while you space the spots. The foam no doubt also prevents prongs from slipping out before they're set. Do you also use a foam block to cushion the spot fronts while you're bending the prongs? —or just a workbench or table? I apologize for all the questions, but this is fascinating and I'm thrilled you can share this information. Thank you!

That's a clever way to do it. I assumed some spots would work their way loose "in progress" if not set one at a time. Clearly that's not the case. Are you using 2-prong or 4-prong spots?

tsunkasapa, that is gorgeous work! Your spacing and application is absolutely perfect, and the finished effect is stunning —stitching is nice, too. Do you set spots (nail heads, etc.) with them facing you, or do you have to keep flipping the leather because you're setting them upside-down?

A spot can also be called a "nailhead" (or "nail head") or "stud" —different names for the same thing! Based on the number of responses I'm getting... I'm guessing people here don't tend to use machine dies for application. Do folks in general prefer setting spots (nail heads, studs, etc.) by hand?

I'm so glad! Best of luck with your new endeavor. Machine die acquisition can be addictive (hence my extensive collection)...

Looks like a M8–19mm machine, meaning top die has 8mm diameter metric screw threads and bottom die shank is 19mm diameter. Get yourself a metric ruler and verify. Assuming my guess is right... this is a very common size. For example, here's a collection of dies on eBay that fit M8–19mm machines: https://www.ebay.com/c/13007373525 (I know absolutely nothing about the quality of the dies, nor the integrity of the seller —this is only an example). Sellers should be able to provide measurements upon request (many include them as part of the listing).

So, to clarify my question regarding machine dies for spots: Top Loading vs. Bottom Loading Do people (who set spots with machine dies) have a preference? Does it depend on the application? Help?

WAWAK is the parent company of Cleaner's Supply. The WAWAK catalog and website might have more of what you need: www.wawak.com They are good people to work with —very helpful and knowledgeable. Not sure about their international shipping rates, but their domestic rates are extremely reasonable.

Oops... didn't cite the images. First is from Allstarco; second is from Standard Rivet.

There are two ways to load a spot (rhinestone, round, etc.) into a die. The way you do it depends on your machine and/or die brand: 1. Right side UP into the top die Pro... You can see what you're doing (your work is always visible). Con... Your fingers will be sore after pushing lots of sharp little prongs upwards into the die. Con... Rhinestone spots must be pre-assembled (= convenience, but at a cost). 2. Right side DOWN into the bottom die Pro... Your fingers will thank you. Pro... Rhinestone spots don't need to be pre-assembled (= potential cost reduction), although pre-assembled rhinestones can be used. Con... You need to keep flipping your work. So, before I get any deeper into The World of Spots... which setting method do people tend to prefer? As far as I can tell, the biggest benefit to top loading dies is always having your work in front of you, but does that outweigh the disadvantages? Thoughts and opinions are greatly appreciated!

How will this work? I've sold goods to customers in the UK before (over £15 but under £135) and never encountered VAT. I knew it existed but figured it was the customer's problem (?). I read the announcement link, but still don't fully understand.

I've always had a low opinion of "hammer"-type snap setters (I am a Snap Snob), but wow... that is one ingenious tool. I found a blog post review with some details: https://noonsknives.blogspot.com/2019/04/barry-king-snap-setters.html

That actually makes me feel a little better, thanks. I'm discovering limitations I did not anticipate with this project (mostly lack of clearance).

Judging by the measurements so kindly provided by @Sonydaze, it is indeed a chunky die. Too tall for a button press with a 3/8" adapter, but nice work with your "new" dedicated machine. It's a difficult job, but someone (something?) has to do it. Can I volunteer? I would like to sit in the corner and do nothing for a while.

THANK YOU, Sonydaze! That is a HUGE help! ☺☺☺

This is a few months late, but... I have a *huge* favor to ask of Matt S or any other owner of this die: Could you possibly measure the height of the top and bottom dies for me? —not the shanks, just height of the working parts. I'm trying to determine if I can use them in MY non-Weaver press, and whether there would be enough clearance between the dies. The shanks are 3/8" diameter... yes? I have an Osborne machine with prototype 3/8" die adapter.

Forgot to mention... Handy snap dies have been out of production for a very long time. They are very precious; I've never seen an old one for sale on eBay or anywhere else.

This is even older (!)... but Osborne has one for Line 20 snaps (size 20 snaps will not work in a size 24 snap setter).

psst... Check your messages...

Wow... thanks so much for setting that up for me! I *really* like the industrial look that cups lend to the setting, plus you don't need to sacrifice sparkle for function . And yes... this confirms that I don't care for the "proud" profile of the plain crystal rivets. Okay, I laughed... I'm actually testing a prototype die adapter, so full confession: I'm not testing rhinestones for rhinestones' sake (so many customers want rhinestone setting dies that we finally developed a workaround). But I do love sparkly...

That's brilliant! Will definitely keep them in mind for the future. I've seen them at the hardware store and never would have come up with that. As a compromise between sparkly conical rivets and not-so-sparkly (but flat) acrylic rivets, I ordered some "drusy" (little bits of crystal glued together) rivets —flat, but hopefully sparkly: Also grabbed a bag o' assorted scraps from our local Tandy Leather for practicing. PS: For what it's worth, my grandfather was born in Belfast!

That's a really good place to start —thanks! I actually had prong settings in mind, but... rivets might be better for thicker leather? And speaking of rivets: Crystal rivets are conical, while acrylic rivets are flat (this is an assumption based on limited observation): Assuming this is always the case... wouldn't the cone cause the setting to be "proud" (not flat against the leather)?