ButtonLady

I thought only rivets were used to bling out dog collars (and maybe conchos with Chicago screws). But... I'm seeing 2-prong rimmed rhinestone and cabochon spots, and metal spots used as well: https://karmacollars.com/collections/designer-bling-custom-handmade-leather-dog-collars Is one preferred over the other? Is there a difference in canine comfort or collar functionality? Bring on the bling!

It really is a lovely piece. We emigrated first to Canada (early 1600s), then to US around 1914. Well... not me specifically. Are there any Conrads left in Hesse?

Leanne, I'm so sorry about your dad. I lost my mom a year ago December. You have my deepest sympathy.

Welcome, Marco! Very nice work. ☺☺☺ I looked up "vindonissa pouch" —it's for storing wax tablets? My ancestors were from Hesse. Supposedly, one of them was a witch (!) and this explains a lot about me.

They're still being made in Harrison City, New Jersey. Any other identifying marks? Do you have a picture?

The El-Cheapo calipers are... okay, but they eat batteries like crazy (which are not cheap). Thanks! Just updated the website description.

Welcome!

To the man who started it all... thanks, seabee! On a semi-related note, the manufacturer of the machine I sell calls this piece a "pin" (see marked photo below): Some customers call it a piston. Would it more properly be called a ram? (apologies for the hijack)

I am following this thread with great interest, although we're getting into territory I normally leave to my machinist. mcguyver42, I really like your calipers! Mine are cheap imported digital crap. My husband tried to teach me how to use his manual set... and gave up in frustration (in my defense, math was involved).

I have no experience with Buckle Guy at all and I'm glad they have been so responsive. Good to hear! Manufacturers and distributors will often send samples for free (or for a small charge). I've tried a LOT of snaps this way (also rivets and grommets, but mostly snaps). Most of what I've tried is standard enough to be compatible with different brand dies. Granted, I haven't tried EVERYTHING... but hardware is *generally* built to a standard compatible with *most* setting equipment, regardless of brand. I do know that Baby DOT 20L snaps don't work well in Osborne 20L snap dies (at least not in Osborne's old style dies; haven't experimented with their new style). Thanks so much for contributing to this body of knowledge!

My apologies... Buckleguy was upfront and provided dimensions, and I should have acknowledged that (instead of being catty). They were not the subject of my soapbox rant and I should have made that clear. Too many vendors and distributors shroud their machines in mystery and claim their branded equipment is proprietary —some is, of course, and hardware can "prefer" certain setting equipment (for example, metric vs. imperial can be an issue)— but knowing their dies' shank size and type can avoid a lot of frustration and unnecessary expense. If a seller can't provide that information, move on to one that can.

Leatherworkers are pretty awesome, actually. Die shank dimensions are always going to be slightly smaller than machine openings, but... you're right, he's not exactly advertising that fact. Dies are very rarely brand-specific, and it's really irritating that some brands [not mentioning names] imply or make that claim outright. /off my soapbox

I'd be really interested to know this, too! I have a few ideas, having jury-rigged my fair share of machines and dies... (with some "interesting" results). Buckleguy's "BG Press" is a M8/19mm machine, meaning top threads are 8mm and bottom shank is 19mm diameter. It's the most common metric size available. Any M8/19mm die will fit it. Hiker presses use 3/8" shank dies —also very common.

They made me smile, especially the one on the left (tall hat with stars). Thank you so much for sharing them.

Oops... missed the edit window. Snap springs are in the SOCKET, not the cap. I need a vacation...

I *think* the Amazon example is a M6/12mm machine. Assuming I'm correct, this is not a very common size and (assuming I'm correct) Gold Star dies are compatible: https://www.goldstartool.com You would be limiting yourself to a very limited range of die types and sizes if you purchased this machine. However, if it is a Gold Star clone, you can buy a 3/8" adapter kit for... $95.00 (!)

FYI... Here are three types of snaps commonly used in leatherwork: Round Spring (Ring Spring, Industrial, Standard, Durable [24L], Baby [20L]) Parallel Spring Segmented Spring (Segma)

The 24L post is actually longer (and wider) than 20L, but that's because it's proportionally larger all over. Be aware that Master Tool shanks are 3/8" (and will not fit the M8/19mm machines you're looking at now). One-way snaps require a specialized die that accommodate the socket tab. These dies are not available with a M8/19mm shank, at least I've never heard of one —I'd be very, very surprised if a stock (non-custom) version exists! If you're planning to use one-way snaps eventually, you might be better off investing in a 3/8" machine from the beginning... and a one-way snap die eventually. I believe Fasnap and Scovill (DOT) are the only non-custom manufacturers of one-way snap dies for machines (possibly also Rome Fastener). All three also make their own version of one-way snaps: Fasnap http://fasteners.fasnap.com/viewitems/snap-fasteners---screw-studs/one-way-pull-fasteners Scovill (DOT) https://www.dotfasteners.com/shop-by-brand/pull-the-dot/ Rome Fastener https://www.romefast.com/One-Way-Snap-Fasteners.asp I don't know if brand-specific snaps can be set in in other manufacturers' dies. My guess is "most likely" but I don't know for absolute certain. BIASED OPINIONS AHEAD: I own a Fasnap machine, and Scovill (DOT) also makes a machine —both are excellent. Both use 3/8" shank dies. Neither machine is cheap, but they will outlive you. Another option is purchasing a less expensive 3/8" machine and saving up for dies you really want: Very Baby https://www.verybaby.com/collections/diaper-sewing-notions/products/snap-press Tandy Craftool https://tandyleather.com/products/craftool-hand-press?_pos=5&_sid=127bba072&_ss=r You're very welcome!

• "Line" (originally "ligne") refers to the cap diameter. It's an old unit of measurement: 40 lignes = 1 inch. Some modern button manufacturers use "#" instead of "L" but it's all the same: • 20L / 1/2" [12.5mm] and 24L / 5/8" [15mm] is a size common to ring spring snaps, sometimes called "industrial" or "durable". The ring (a literal wire ring) is inside the cap and provides the gripping action for this type of snap. Segma snaps have an entirely different gripping action. • Setting machines are just specialized arbor presses. As long as everything lines up and the machine is solid, you're in good shape. Definitely consider the DIES, though. Different machines accept different die shanks. The two most common are M8/19mm and 3/8". Most foreign die shanks are M8/19mm; most US die shanks are 3/8" —they are NOT interchangeable. M8/19mm shank dies tend to be cheaper; 3/8" shanks can be more versatile (top and bottom dies can be switched around). • At this point, you should be considering the types of snaps you plan to set, now and in the future. Select a machine that accommodates the kinds of dies you need (or will need), and be very mindful of the shank size.

Missed the edit window (there's a reason I'm not a computer engineer). Loose rhinestones still need a rim when set with a bottom loading die. The advantage is that the two components don't need to pre-assembled —you drop the up-side down rim into the die, then the up-side down rhinestone into it: At least, I *think* it's an advantage. You don't need to purchase pre-assembled spots; you can just assemble them as you go along = cost savings. But... you would need to handle two separate (tiny) components per set instead of one. Hmm...

Somehow my response evaporated. I'll try again... The biggest advantage of bottom loading dies is that rhinestones don't need to be pre-set into a rim. Top loading dies require a rhinestone–rim assembly:

A machinist had to explain this concept to me. I iz dumb...

I am seriously geeking out here... THANK YOU! Technically, we are an Osborne distributor, but very honored to be working with them to develop adapters for their machine. We're also working with SX Industries to develop our own line of dies (including spot). Leatherwork is still a little new for me; I'm a lot more comfortable with the button side of things! I took a look at the post you mentioned. I can certainly bring your suggestions to them. Yay! My mad patent searching skillz are up to the task. Allstarco sells a bottom loading spot die. Its advantages are (1) rhinestones + settings don't need to be pre-assembled; and (2) your fingertips don't get sore. This style appears to be the exception, with top loading dies being preferred (sore fingers notwithstanding). Ah... another one of those things that makes perfect sense that never occurred to me. Thanks! Dies I currently use, in various capacities, are all turned. I'm not sure what a screw machine is, or maybe I do and didn't know the name (?)

Thanks so much, ryano! This is really helpful information. We're developing a spot die that fits Osborne machines, which was originally designed for making fabric-covered buttons. Die will be single loading. I'm trying to figure out whether people prefer top loading to bottom loading (pros and cons above). If I have this right: you can load spots into the top (prongs DOWN)... or into the bottom (prongs UP) but you can pivot the die to the top so that the spots are in the prongs DOWN position (?). That's pretty cool. This might be the 1911 patent (it describes a "rotating bottom plate"): https://patents.google.com/patent/US1041884A/en Okay, seeing the work in front of you when setting by machine is preferable to flipping over the leather. If you're loading spots individually by hand, are sore fingers a problem? —this is my primary concern.