SewMuchToLearn

@RibMtn did you end up going with the Ferdco? I've been researching bell skivers and read that having a separate drive for feed roll and knife is a good feature, so I'm interested to learn more.

I'm working with 4-5oz veg tan to make bags and purses, and I'm machine sewing. I'm trying to figure out the "proper way" (most long lasting for durable bags, but also looks good) to finish the top of a seam in two instances: (And by finish the seam, I mean in terms of sewing, not in terms of burnishing/painting, etc.) 1) When sewing a gusset, for example at the top of the front panel on a bag: 2) When sewing an overlapped seam, for example, the top of a side seam on a tote bag: I've seen some videos where people leave long tails of thread on the seam and then hand stitch / tie off, though I'm not clear on exactly how to do that, or if it's the best option. My instinct in both instances is to start the seam a little bit below the top edge, backstitch 2-3 stitches as usual, and continue on, making sure that the thread doesn't wrap over the top edge (which it does in both of my example photos), because exposed thread at the top edge could get worn down and break over time. However, this means that the top millimeter or two of leather won't be stitched. Is that okay? I will be gluing the seam before stitching, so maybe that will be enough to hold it together. What do you think? How is this ideally done? My goal is a professional-looking and strong seam.

This machine looks like a great addition to any workshop. I did a quick google search for "Cowboy 8365 tall post" and didn't find any info on it -- any idea who sells them in the USA and approximate price? Is this a new model? I found regular post bed machines, but not the tall ones.

Do you mean I should make it less tight? I cranked down on it in hopes of getting rid of the extra slop. If I loosen it, the center foot wobbles even more.

I am having trouble figuring out how to fine tune my Juki LU-563 walking foot machine. The needle isn’t centered (right to left) in the center presser foot hole, and the center foot isn’t centered with relation to the outer foot. Here is a link to a video of me hand turning the wheel — you can see some slop in the center foot — is this normal? Please share any suggestions of how I can dial this in better, or let me know if you think it already as it should be. I started looking at it more closely when it looked like my needle holes were excessively large for the needle/thread that I’m using. Photos show front and back side of a seam. (needle: 100/16 LR/RTW, thread: 69 bonded nylon, leather: veg tan two layers totaling 3mm or 7-8 oz).

@Patrick1 I'm interested in your narrow needle plate and feed dog systems. My machine is a TechSew 5100, which I believe is comparable to the Cowboy 4500 / Cobra Class 4. I see at your website that you have two types -- Xtreme narrow and Standard narrow. 1) Can you help me understand when someone would use standard narrow vs xtreme narrow? My intuition is to go with the xtreme narrow, but is there any advantage to having more open space around the needle? I make bags and sometimes when I try to stitch close to the edge, the leather folds down into the open area around the needle, so that's why I'm looking at narrow needle plates in the first place. 2) I see that your needle plates that come with the feed dogs are flat, not rounded (aside from the holster plate which I'm not interested in right now) -- is the flat plate functionally different than a rounded plate? Can you help me understand why someone would use a flat plate vs the rounded plate? I see that you also make an xtreme narrow rounded plate, but it has to be used with the xtreme narrow feed dogs. What's the use case for that rounded plate? 3) What are pros/cons to stainless steel over black oxide finish (aside from price)? 4) What's the slot size in the xtreme narrow and standard narrow plates? Thank you for any info you can share! I'm posting here rather than emailing your directly in case others have similar questions.

To close the loop on this -- I received the shuttle driver assembly from Techsew last week, as Ron mentioned above. Was able to get it installed and my machine working again. Techsew also offered me $150 credit towards a future purchase of replacement parts. As for this part breakage being caused by a thread jam -- I do not recall any such jam. Seems like if it was enough stress to break the shuttle driver, I would remember the jam. Regardless, I'm back up and running. Thanks all for your insight.

This is concerning to me, as I'm not mechanically inclined. TechSew is shipping me a shuttle driver shaft assembly. They sent me links to videos on how to replace it: Removing shuttle driver shaft assembly on the Techsew 5100 or 4100: https://youtu.be/sw63T_03mVA Installing shuttle driver shaft assembly on the Techsew 5100 and 4100: https://youtu.be/6GYa5apW7Sc They offered to have one of their technicians guide me over Facetime through it, so we will see how it goes. Not excited.

I am still waiting to hear from Techsew support on this. It is frustrating to have such a huge failure of the machine and no resolution from TechSew customer support. I've called and emailed them, and now I've lost another day of sewing time. I've heard such great things about TechSew support, but I have not experienced it yet. I'm hoping they can restore my faith in the brand! @Techsew Ron

Yes the needle survived. Yes, I will do that.

I was just starting to sew on my TechSew 5100 this afternoon -- I had literally taken 2 stitches -- when a piece of metal flew out of the bobbin area. The piece had completely sheared off. Has anyone had this happen before? I bought the machine new from TechSew about 6 months ago and have used it lightly since then, probably only an hour or two a month, so I'm surprised. I assume it's a (major!) manufacturing defect in the machine. I emailed their support for help (they are closed for the weekend.) @Techsew Ron Has anyone had something like this happen? Any tips to avoid this in the future?

@nstarleather What would you consider really good thread? I've been using Amann Strongbond Nylon Bonded thread (like this: https://www.wawak.com/thread/thread-by-material/nylon/?Brand=Amann ) -- is there a better choice? Is polyester preferred? I've heard mixed opinions. I figure that the cost of thread is miniscule compared to all the other inputs, so I'll gladly buy whatever is the best!

Hi, I'm trying to take my bag-making to the next level in terms of strength and quality. I know that hand saddle stiching is probably the strongest way to sew a seam. But within the bounds of machine-stitched: what's the best way to sew a seam on a tote bag to make it strong? (like a side, bottom, or corner seam)? Wrong sides together and then flip the bag right side out? (first photo) Right sides together so the seam is on the outside? (second photo) Flat felled seam? (third photo) Something else? Where would you reinforce the seam and how (more stitching, rivets, something else?) I know that different seams will change the look/design of the bag. I'm starting from scratch here and trying to design for quality and longevity. I don't expect my bags will hold anything unreasonably heavy (shouldn't be filled with bricks, but maybe a few hardcover books), but want to know how to make it last. While we're talking quality -- what about straps? How would you attach those? Stitched or riveted or both? Will single layer straps hold over time, or do they need to be double layer? Thanks for your insight!

I'm in search of a Juki 441 clone machine (cylinder arm, triple feed, can sew up to about 7/8" thickness). I'm in upstate NY, so it needs to be reasonably close by, or able to be shipped (they are heavy, I know!) If you're within a few hours of Rochester, NY, Buffalo, NY, or Boston, MA, I'm interested. I'm not tied to any brand, but some models that would work are: Techsew 4100, Techsew 5100, Cobra Class 3, Cobra Class 4, Cowboy 3500, Cowboy 4500, and I'm sure there are many more. Searching for used because I'm just starting out and need to keep costs low...I'd be grateful for any leads! Thank you!

Hi, I'm interested! Where are you located? Is this for local pickup only?

Is this for local pickup only or could you ship to me in New York state?

Thanks for the info -- I can't figure out how to edit my post above to be more correct. Is there a way?

Hello! This forum has been a wealth of information for me (longtime lurker here!) I make bags and purses using veg tan, and until now I've haven't used anything heavier than 4-5oz veg tan. I have a Juki LU-563 (bought it used, works great) which I believe is the previous iteration of Juki 1508. The LU-563 has been good for up to 4 layers of 4oz veg tan, but I can tell I'm reaching it's limits with anything heavier (skipped stitches, barely enough space under presser foot.) I'd like to start working with thicker leathers (6 oz+), so I'm trying to figure out which class of machine to buy. I'm only looking at cylinder arm machines, figuring that I can always add a flatbed attachment if needed. In terms of what it can sew through, is the next step up from my Juki-LU563 a Juki 341 clone? Or would it be a Juki 441 clone? I know that these are cylinder arm machines and the LU-563 is a flatbed, so it's a bit of apples vs. oranges here, but ignoring that difference, will a Juki 341 clone let me sew much thicker than the Juki LU-563? Or do you recommend that I step up to a Juki 441 clone? I'm not too worried about brand right now, just trying to figure out the general type of machine I want. But in preparation for that step, is the following correct? Juki 341 clone = Techsew 2750 = Cobra Class 26 = Cowboy CB341 Juki 441 clone = Techsew 4100 / 5100 = Cobra Class 3 = Cowboy 3200 4500 Where does the Techsew 4800 fit in? I looked through the forums but am still confused. Feel free to direct me to any relevant posts that I overlooked. Thank you!

What about making a decent mark in veg tan leather, like Horween Essex or Dublin?

I'm relatively new to leatherworking, all self-taught and internet-taught, and I would like to attend a trade show to learn more about what's out there -- techniques, machines, tools, etc. -- with the intent of launching a small batch leather bag business. What trade shows do you recommend? Preferably not shows targeted only at hobbyists (if such shows exist) because I want to learn about options for scaling up production in the future. Obviously everything has been paused since the pandemic, but once things do start up again, which shows should I watch for in the Northeastern USA?

I am pretty new to leatherwork, making bags and purses using only veg tan, mostly Horween Essex and Dublin. I want to add my logo to my projects, and I plan to get a custom metal stamp to do this. I expect my logo to be pretty small, like maybe an inch square, maximum. I looked through the forums but couldn't find the answers I'm looking for -- feel free to direct me to any relevant posts that I overlooked. 1) For the leathers I use, how would I choose between using a hot press machine or cold stamping? I know that a hot press machine also allows me to use foil, but that is not a concern right now, so is there an advantage to getting a hot press machine since it seems like the more expensive option? Will the mark look better using heat? Will a hot press make it look darkened like it's been branded? The look I'm going for is just a clean impression, with no color change if possible. 2) If I don't use a hot press machine, I think my non-heated options would be to wet the leather and then either use a mallet to hammer in the stamp or an arbor press to apply the force. Are there other options that I'm not aware of? 3) Depending on the answers to 1 & 2, is there a particular type of metal that I should get the stamp made out of? I think I've seen aluminum and brass mentioned...what do you recommend? I hope to use this stamp for a long time. 4) Depending on the answers to 1 & 2, what kind of backing shape should I look for on my stamp? Maybe a threaded screw sticking out the back, a flat back with a hole, or something else? I don't know what the options are, and I don't want to get the wrong thing for my needs. Thank you for any advice you can share. I had hoped to attend a trade show or two by this point in my leatherworking career, but with Covid, I've had to rely on the internet instead.

I'm getting a used Juki LU-563 delivered next week and I want to order needles in advance for use with leather. Just want to be sure I understand: The main difference between 135x17 needles (which is what the Juki LU-563 manual says to use) and 135x16 is simply the point? So I should actually be ordering 135x16 needles for leather? I'm trying to avoid ordering the wrong kind of needle and having to return it. I have downloaded the leather needle point reference guides linked above; very helpful!