Deanr

Very good work. On the flap, on the final stitching, do you punch from the outside? If yes, how do you keep the the binding so tight?

I usually buy chrome tan that is on sale. Lately I get it from tandy. Yes I try for 5 oz/2 mm

https://youtu.be/iSSkCZGyR64 There is the imbedded video which I don't know how to delete so there is also the link. The video shows sewing the long panels flat. One bottom and two side and the narrower zipper panel. Then turn it into a cylinder and sew the last seam. The last seam is a side panel to the zipper panel. Prior to sewing the last seam all four panels measure 35.5. The circle ends are 12 in diameter. The round ends will pucker if the cylinder isn't just right. I add 1/2 in for seam allowance. Springfield sells the pattern which I purchased but maybe not required. The zipper panel follows the curve of the end pieces just like the rest of the bag. I use a sailrite ls1 machine which I had before I started leatherwork. Maybe not the best but works good for this application. When I try to sew two pieces of veg tan I have trouble with skipped stitches so I just hand sew those. They make a leatherworker machine that would probably work better. Hope this isn't too confusing

I do similar bags which I use a combo of leather and canvas. I use a machine. I think alot of your problems will be rectified if you use a machine. The lumpy ends could be fixed by adjusting the width of the sides as the bag lays flat prior to sewing it in a cylinder. Sometimes a small adjustment can make a difference. My ends are 12 inch and prior sewing the cylinder I try for 35 1/2. I use 5 oz chrome tan and have never skived. I do not line mine. My machine is a flat bed and my biggest problem was sewing the seam when it goes from flat to cylinder. I sew that outside out and the turn it inside out to sew the ends on. Springfield leather has a good instructional video. I also run my straps all the way across the bottom.

I like that construction for the bottom. Is the rest of the purse veg tan? Where did you get it?

I like it alot from the handles to the liner to the zipper. Really good work. What is on the bottom inside? Is that piping on the bottom?

Thanks. Just wanted to add that the one in the picture is not waxed canvas. Sometimes the lighter color wax canvas has a dirty look. Less appealing, more functional. Biggest challenge is sewing that panel with the zipper on my flatbed. Basically sewing it from a flat panel into a cylinder.

I've been making duffle bags from a combination of chrome tan and canvas. Sometimes I use waxed canvas which I make myself. The waxed canvas is pretty easy and not too expensive. I get factory seconds from big duck canvas. I do not line them so I use 92 thread for everything. I have a sailrite lsz which does good as long as I don't use veg tan. Maybe not the best machine but works good for this application.

I have been doing some painting of leather and I like to use acrylic paint that has been thinned alot. I like the angelus for consistency. I thin to the point it is almost like water, or dye. I like the 4 oz bottles and put on the twist top so I can count the number of drops. I also use the angelus 2- thin. Use 1 part paint and 1 part thinner and as many as 5 parts water. Think of water color paints as a kid. At this point it can take a couple coats but I feel it absorbs like dye rather than laying on top like paint. When mixing for a new color i have to look it up. Google says 1 part yellow to one part blue. Then to lighten add one part yellow. One drop at a time. To darken 1 drop red at a time. I use a brush mostly but if thinned enough I can use my little battery powered airbrush. You can get some handy accessories zat dollar tree for painting.

I make duffle bags using a combination of canvas and leather. For a stiffener in the bottom I have used bontex stiffener which is made for this purpose. It's a pressed material, not plastic. I sandwhich between canvas and I have no problems sewing through it with my sailrite lz1 using 92 thread. I got the bontex from Springfield leather. It comes in a sheet about 3' x 4'. I also see a material pitex which comes in different thickness. I have never used it.

More of a sporting rig. I got the gun and wanted to make a holster for it. I gave it to my son and asked him what type of holster he wanted. With the right cover it could be used for carry but I never would.

Thanks for the compliments The inlay leather is from tandy. Manhattan single shoulder brick snake print. I cut out the inlay, then scribe and cut about 1/8 in smaller. Then push it on the back side of the inlay to give it definition, then glue and sew the liner in place. I have tried to resize my pictures. Hopefully they show up.

I just finished a holster for a S&W model 686. I don't make many holsters and I wanted to try some ideas. Originally I was going to try a doc holiday style but decided on a simpler design. It has a belt clip mounted at an angle on the lower inside. I added a strap on top for support. I added the insert and backed it up with the cutout from the insert. It is lined with a thin veg tan. I'm happy the way it turned out. It goes to my son and thus the bigfoot concho.

That is not the purpose of piping. Piping is used when the seams are turned in. I may be wrong but I don't think the directions referred to the edges when they specified to complete this before sewing. Look at edge finishing videos and most should sew before painting or burnishing the edge. Then it takes the appearance of a single piece of leather. I would not take it apart. I would hold the edges against the belt sander to even them up. Then use edge beveler to clean the fuzz up. Then burnish. Then paint if you desire. Be careful when sanding to not get too aggressive beyond making both pieces even and straight.

Did you paint your edges before sewing? If you have a belt sander you can use a finer grit and sand the excess off, then refinish your edges. Just remove enough so both edges are flat. Use a beveler after sanding. Then burnish the edges together. As mentioned before when using contact cement, make sure you let both pieces air dry before pressing together. Depending on the application sometimes I use basting tape instead of cement. Doesn't hold as well but is alot easier.

If the case is lined you could use a stiffener between the leather and lining. Springfield sells bontex in sheets 48x60 in various thicknesses. If you aren't lining the case you can cover the bontex with fabric and make it a tight fit and press it in each side.

Nice job Been there with the kickback a time or two. I have to always remember to stand about a foot to the left.

"In style" is an understatement. That is some quality work!

I think you did an excellent job on the basket weave, as well as the rest.

That is impressive. Something to be proud of! The side by side picture is classic. On the old belt why would they punch holes all the way around?

Everything looks good but I really like that lower knife sheath.

That is impressive basket weave. What is the stamp you used. May I ask how you maintain your alignment?

Nice work. Love the tooled feathers. Nice change from what I normally see.

I do duffle bags, each one has a side pocketsimilar to yours and a center zipper. I was a little intimidated until my first one. Then I realized how easy it is when using a machine. Trust me, the other operations on your bag are more complicated.

I really like the bag. Clean looking with nice stitching. If there is one thing I would look at is the outside pocket. Maybe put a zipper for the opening about an inch down. Brass of course. Also maybe fold the top over to address that raw edge. Might look good if you skived it down a bit. Just my opinion