eblanche
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About eblanche
- Currently Viewing Topic: Binding Bracket vs Moving Arm
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New Hampshire, USA
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lightweight outdoor gear
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sewing and the machines involved
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Hello Folks, I have been considering picking up a 'new' machine to help in small production of backpacks and accessories. The primary use for this machine is attaching 3/4" elastic binding to stretch mesh with a stretch stitch. I do this now using a three-step zig-zag on an old domestic New Home from the 70/80's. This machine is only being borrowed when needed for the pockets so I am looking to obtain my own and preferably one that is going to be dead-set reliable. I have been very interested in the Singer 20U for this purpose as they are very popular and 3/4 size would be nice...but I stumbled upon a Durkopp 265 on facebook marketplace for just under $500. I've always admired the Durkopp/Adler machines but from a distance. I do not know much about the company(s) or their machines. Would one of these be a better option than a Singer 20u for similar price? What can you tell me about this type of machine? If I pursue, what are some of the things I should be looking at or asking about when I visit the machine? I was able to locate a manual which indicates several different deviations in the model line. chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://partner.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/public/265/K_265_267_269_EN.pdf This doesn't appear to be a leather machine, but this is the best resource out there to my knowledge for this kind of feedback and information. I have inquired about the exact model and subclass and waiting to hear back. I currently sew on a Juki 5410 and have had no issues finding any type of parts and pieces for it. For the Durkopp 265, are parts accessible and how are the costs? I like to tinker on machines myself, but if I find myself over my head and need to bring it somewhere for service, will I have a more difficult time finding someone compared to Juki repair shop? Looks like a needle system of 265-50, which I can only find online at a few locations. Looks pricey!! Lastly, is there anything else you can tell me about the particular Durkopp 265, this class of machine, or maybe alternative zig-zag machines I should look out for? I am looking to spend less than $1000 and open to older machines w/ reverse as well. Thanks all, I appreciate any and all feedback!
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Video: Durkopp Adler 205-370 Operating Guide
eblanche replied to Uwe's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
This video is incredible! I wish I had one similar for when I purchased my machine. -
I did swap out maybe 5-8 different pieces including the tension springs/assembly and presser spring but this was because it was unclear which exact version and parts were inside of my machine along with the usage of the machine being a question. I did NOT need to change the needle bar as I still use the same max/min size needles. All I mess with now are the feed dogs and throat plate to match. This is going from size 8-18. The manual/parts list for 5410's also includes a list of all the different parts for the heavier versions towards the end. Not sure if the 9000 series has this.
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I have done the opposite swap on my 5410. Very easy, and I do it often lightweight back to medium weight. Helpful guide for the different feed dogs and throat plates for different 9010 models to pair with the type of sewing you do. https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/products_e/apparel_e/1needle_lock_e/detail.php?cd=DLN-9010A_E Most Juki dealers should have good access to those parts as long as they are not backordered.
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FNG Seeking to clarify mixed messages...
eblanche replied to Ripper70's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I've ordered from https://www.thethreadexchange.com/ several times and they are quick and reasonable if they end up having the needles you need. May be worth inquiring if they can get the sizes/points you are looking for.- 13 replies
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I know most on this thread have not had decent experiences lately, but I have to say, I was just shipped a crated up machine (to a commercial address) from Pennsylvania to New Hampshire and the process was smooth. From hanging up the phone after payment mid morning Thursday to delivery the following Tuesday mid afternoon. This includes the weekend which freight typically doesn't account for. The cost was IMO very reasonable and much less than estimated quotes from back in December. Total shipping/crating costs of less than $200. There is hope and the fact the vendor is working with you is a good sign. With the recent ongoings, it could very well be held up in a trailer just waiting for a truck to take it along. In my experience, you can't let up and keep trying to contact the necessary people. Talk to the right people and they'll find your machine and be able to tell you what the hold up has been.
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Two more great responses. Thanks all! Kgg, I think I simply want rather than need the functions an automatic gives me. Even with my Janome 6600p, I found myself manually doing the start/finish backtack for certain purposes and I have always needed to go back and further snip threads closer to the material. Never used the saved settings or any of the decorative stitches. For my purposes, an automatic electronic machine would save time for sure but nothing compared to the time savings in the expected factory setting. Needle up and down is most important to me. I can achieve this with a servo motor and other accommodations though.\ Thanks everyone and still any further response are welcome and appreciated!
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Thanks for the replies! I intend to use this machine primarily for lightweight woven nylons, polyester, mesh and laminates from .5oz/yd 7 denier and up. I do not plan on sewing leather. The other main function will be for lightweight outdoor backpack material. I do not intend to use thicker than v69 thread so am looking at the "light duty" configuration on this particular juki, suitable for #9-18 dbx1 needle size. I make lightweight outdoor down quilts and also backpacks. I do not do long production runs.Mostly one/two at a time type of work. I sometimes stitch one at a time but also often faster. I've heard of disconnecting the electronics for manual function but unless I know for sure, not something I'd want to think of a fail safe. This is my first "larger sewing purchase." I'm coming from a Janome 6600p quilting machine so a big change of pace here! The janome has a ton of functions and features and as a beginner, I have been spoiled. Maybe I should just learn the old school methods and actually improve my fundamental sewing skills?? Any thoughts are much welcome! I know there are quite a bit of members here who are familiar with these machines.
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Hey all, I posted a thread not long ago asking a bunch of questions and never received a response. I wanted to single out this specific question as it is more broad. I may have an opportunity to buy the machine I want. This machine (Juki 5410) is available as standard operation or with electronic automatic functions such as thread snips, backtack, etc. The machine I'm considering is an older fully automatic model with the electronics. How reliable are the electronics in the older industrial machines? I've been told by multiple sources that the older control panels are no longer made/serviced by Juki and buying an older electronic Juki should be a concern! Thanks and appreciate any insight, Eric
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Hey all, I've been in the search for a Juki 5410 and it seems not too much information is available out there online. Even more so true for the the older models! I quickly learned that this site has the most comprehensive information regarding different sewing machines and all you could know about them! After reaching out to many industrial dealers, I've also seen results discussed in the thread created earlier but have also had some good experiences with some folks. First and foremost, this machine would be for sewing lightweight 7d .5oz/yd nylons, polyesters, mesh, up to at most several layers of 8-10oz nylons/laminates. I would use from tex35-40 up to t70 bonded nylons. I know, not leather, but I come here because of the vast sewing machine knowledge. If I had all the means, I would search out a new Juki 5410n-7 (or 9010). I understand the newer (n) 5410 models come in different versions depedning on the weight of the material being used from light duty to heavy and jeans versions. I am specifically looking for the light duty version as I'm going to be using needles 9-18 with materials from 7d nylons and mesh to light weight backpack materials. The older versions seem to also be available so i have been looking at the 5410-6 as I prefer to have the auto features. My hesitation is that I can't find any information or instruction manuals regarding the older models and if they were offered in different weighted versions like the newer 5410 machines. I have an opportunity to purchase a 5410-6 within my budget but I'd like to confirm I'm getting the machine that suits what I'm looking for. Do the older 5410-6 Juki's have different variations like the newer ones? If this is so, how can I distinguish light from heavy on the older models without physically examining the parts? Something in the serial numbers? I also understand the different versions can be changed by swapping out just a few parts. Again, I'm not sure if this is also true regarding the older versions? Also can anyone give input as to the reliability of electronics in some of the older Juki industrial machines? Any insight would be greatly appreciated, Thanks