Bronson

It looks very nicely made. How is the draw? Bronson

I've been using it because in the sizes I can get around here it's the least expensive. It seems to hold well but I notice that few people here use it. Another issue I've noticed recently is that when I'm trying to punch stitch holes with the awl it hangs up really bad when going through the PVA. I've sharpened the awl and when it's just two layers of leather it goes through like butter. Do the other cements like Barge's cause the awl to hang up as much? Thanks all, Bronson

I still use the overstitcher because in the curved areas I have to use the single punch. I think I'm using the 7 spi wheel. Honestly I just used the one that matched up with the punch I have I finally got around to gluing up some scraps and practicing punching my holes with the stitching awl. I think it definitely needs to be sharpened. Anybody know of an online tutorial on sharpening one? I did a search here but didn't come up with anything. Bronson

Nylon thread is fine in that temperature range. Bronson

I'm not Jeff from Boomstick but Kman pointed me in the right direction. Hang your wet, formed holster in the oven at about 120 degrees for 30 to 40 minutes or so. My oven only goes down to 150 degress so I only put it in for about 15 to 20 minutes. This will make a firm holster but it won't be so firm that it's brittle (the problem I was having when I tried to dry it with a heat gun or hair dryer). Bronson

The one I made in this style used straps that were a separate piece of leather. I blatantly borrowed the idea from a UBG Regulator holster I have. The strap leather was held onto the holster by the screw going through the snap. I figured that if the strap ever became too stretched out or anything happened to it I could take out the screw, remove the snap and strap then replace the strap and screw it all back together. I guess doing it that way would also allow you to have the straps from either the top or bottom without having different patterns. The strap worked very well but the holster itself was just too loose. I couldn't keep the gun from falling out and there were some problems with the finish too. I eventually tossed it and didn't get any pics. Bronson

You can also use a 6/32 T-nut with an appropriate lenght 6/32 counter sunk screw instead of the stud post. Various length t-nuts can be had in the bulk hardware section of most any hardware store and you can grind the barrel down if they're too long. Bronson

You guys are the best. Thanks for the tips and links. Bronson

I'm not making any money off any holsters I make. I make them for my personal use or for friends. That being said I'm curious as to where I might get some decent leather at a fair price. I've been using the stuff I get from the Tandy store but have come to learn just how low quality most of that is. I'm just a guy making a few holsters in his basement. I can't afford to buy multiple hides or even one full hide. I also probably don't need the absolute best leather out there, just something a little better than what I've got So any tips on where to look for decent leather in sizes and prices that are manageable for a hobbyist? Thanks all, Bronson

Do you use the GT and smooth the interior before you mold it? Thanks, Bronson

Thanks Tac. Edges are a big challenge for me. I tried a bunch of stuff but ended up coming back to the way Al Stohlman writes in his books. I dye it, wet it and then burnish it. If I want a glossier edge I might put some gum trac. on it and rub it with a piece of denim. A guy I work with lathed me a burnisher out of a piece of 2" nylon rod. I chuck it in drill that's in a holder he also made for me and clamp it to my work bench. After wearing it for a while and looking at how it sits on the belt and where the belt is putting stress on the holster I've decided that while it is comfortable and fully functional if I were to do it again I'd change a couple of things. First I'd move the front belt slot a little further out from the holster body and secondly I'd cut my belt slots at an angle so when they wrap around they fit more naturally on the belt. Thanks again, Bronson

And that tip is greatly appreciated. It also means that I only need TWO colors (black and med. brown) and some reducer Bronson

Thanks everyone. It's Fiebings mahogany dye. I have to put so much on to get coverage that it comes out darker than what I would think of as a mahogany color. I will soon be ordering some Angelus dyes. I picked up the smooth cylinder 60 used at a local gun store. I had seen a new one at a gun show for waaaay more than I was willing to pay and had been on the lookout for one ever since. It's an older model 60 as it's a true .38 special and not a .357 magnum like the newer ones. It was dirty as sin in the display case but the trigger and action are smooth like greased glass, luckily it cleaned right up. I've been wearing if for a few hours and it's comfy. Hard to tell it's even there. Bronson

Jas Townsend has a lot of re-enacting supplies. Including a sealing wax kit. http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?products_id=378 Bronson

Oops, my bad. Turtle Feather's was the one I found that did have the pint bottles. I was mistakenly thinking of a different site. So, it looks like Turtle Feather's it is. Oh, why would I need millions of shades? I'm a guy, the only colors that exsit for me are black, dark brown, & medium brown Bronson

This is for my S&W 60 with unfluted cylinder. Firstly thanks to everyone here for the great advice and tips. The entire process went smoother using the things I've learned here. I know the stitch holes are too big since I'm still using the diamond punch. I want to make either a stitching pony or clam before I try learning to use the awl. Any preferences here for either the pony or the stitching clam? Any pitfalls of either design? Right now I'm leaning towards the clam because it's inexpensive and easy to construct. Anyway, here's some links to the pics. And of course comments, suggestions, or high praise are always welcome Thanks everyone, Bronson http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/3407746584/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/3406936403/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/3407744406/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/3406937029/

I looked at Turtle Feather's and didn't see an option for the larger bottles. Now, I'm not sayin' it isn't there just that I didn't see it ...two completely different things Same thing goes for ordering direct from them. I didn't see any prices or online ordering info, just a link to distributors. I'll have to go back and dig around their sites some more. Thanks, Bronson

I keep reading about the superiority of Angelus dyes. I did a search and found that they don't sell direct. So, does anybody have a good recommendation for a retailer? Conversely, any places I should avoid? I looked at a few but it seems most only sell in the small bottles. I did find one that sold pints for $10.00 ...is that a good price? I'd like the bigger bottles because I'd like to try dipping the leather in the dye. Thanks, Bronson

Denster, Do you think something like this would work? http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11...p;filter=vaccum I don't make nearly enough stuff to justify the expense of a pro-bag system or a big press. I figure this little bag system would fall between a foodsaver and what you've got as far as effectiveness. I'm thinking of giving it a shot. I also found a 6 ton bench top press at Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...Itemnumber=1666 but the cost of having steel plates made and the gum rubber sheets ($35 each for 1"x12"x12") make this a bit more financially prohibitive. Bronson

I was having the opposite problem. My holsters were ending up so hard they would crack when flexed. It turns out the problem was my impatience at the process. I would dry the holster with a hair dryer or heat gun. This extreme heat causes the leather to become brittle. One of the members here gave me some great advice that worked very well on my last holster. After the forming I hung it in the oven on the lowest setting (warm, about 150 degrees) for about 20 minutes to dry. The holster is firm but not hard or brittle. It retains it's shape but can still flex and move without cracking. Good luck, Bronson

I'd be interested in a couple blue guns. Bronson

Denster, Are you using any bleeder cloth around the holsters and under the air valve? When we do fiberglass bag forming at work this is an essential element to get a good suction especially around shaped objects. Bronson

I think it looks very nice Bronson

Thanks everyone. Sometimes I get the bug to make something and I just start going The bobtail version is great. IMO it feels much nicer than the standard 1911 grip and it's more comfortable for carrying in a holster too. Oh, mine came like that I'm not ambitious enough to start grinding on my guns yet. I did the rough shaping with a file then sanded with 220 then final sanding with 320, blew all the dust out of the grain with high pressure air, wiped them off and dipped them in the solution. Then I buffed 'em out and rubbed them down with linseed oil. I may go back and put a coat of sealant on them since the oak is pretty porous (it took forever for the oil to stop coming out of the wood). The most difficult part was drilling the holes. My 1911 uses grip screw bushings in the frame so the panels need to be counterbored from both sides to allow them to fit over the bushings and allow the screw head to recess into the grip. Luckily I have access to a full cabinet shop and experienced cabinet makers at work Bronson

I was bit by the woodworking bug this weekend and made some grip panels for my 1911. They are made from a 1/4" oak piece that I got from Lowes for about $3.00. After shaping them I dipped them in my vinegaroon and it really made a nice effect. The pics don't really do the color justice. In real life the dark areas a dark purple-ish grey. Anyway, just something else that you can do with the wonder-mixture Bronson http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/3377674807/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/3378492480/