Bronson

Right now it's hand stitching but my place of employment recently purchased an Adler machine so we could do some special stitching requested by a customer. Once this customer is gone that machine will just sit there until another customer requests it. I've been given the ok to use it after I'm shown the ins & outs. Bronson

NoahL is right, cover the trigger. Bronson

Very nice. Bronson

Stylus for me also. I too have made errant pen marks which were definitely visible through the dye. No worries about that with the stylus. It also works well for transferring directly through the pattern...I use manila folders for my patterns. Bronson

Maybe it's the lateness of the hour but that completely lost me Maybe I'm thinking of the welt in the wrong way. My thinking was to have the welt follow the contour of the gun as closely as possible. Essentially the inside edge of the welt would run in the place normally occupied by the stitch line. This is where I'm thinking the new stitch line would have to be 1/2 the width of the welt away from the gun....I think I'm making this too complicated. I appreciate the efforts to help me understand though. Bronson

Thanks guys. My thinking on it went something like this.... The stitch line normally rides tight to the gun (on the trigger guard side). If the welt is 1/2" wide, and I want the stitch line to end up in the center of the welt, that would mean it would be offset 1/4" from where it would normally be. To be honest I'm still not seeing why this is not the case. Bronson

When you do a holster with a full length welt do you adjust the distance between the gun and the contoured stitch line? If so, how much? Thanks, Bronson

Most of the holsters I've ruined have been because I got impatient and tried to do something too soon or dry it too fast with a heat gun (do NOT do this). Bronson

Too swirly, can't read it. Bronson

That is why I prefer straps that are separate from the body of the holster. If they get damaged, or a snap rips out, or whatever they can be replaced without having to replace the entire holster. Bronson

I have had similar results with brushing on Resolene. I haven't tried dipping the holster in it but I've been told this gives good results. I've made up a batch of the 50/50 neatsfoot and beeswax but have only tried it on scraps of leather...looks nice on the scraps though. Bronson

Do you blacken the leather before or after molding? I tried one that I blackened before molding and everywhere the leather bent or stretched turned a grayish blue. This is also the only holster I've made that has had the acrylic top-coat start to peel off. Bronson

Thanks guys. I'm looking to make a field/flap holster for a friend's dad. He's a farmer and uses his .22 single six around the farm. I was hoping for a dummy gun but I'm wondering if, since I'm not looking to do any detail forming/boning, my Taurus .22 with the same length barrell would be close enough? I was thinking of something similar to this: Or if anybody has a pattern for something similar that they would be willing to share that would be awesome too Bronson

Anybody know where I can get one at a good price? Rings doesn't list them on their website and Duncan's seems to be down. Google searches aren't bringing anything up. Are there any other places? Thanks Bronson

BRL are you airbrushing your Resolene on? I stopped using it because it left a streaky look that no amount of buffing would eliminate....I was brushing it on so that may have made a difference. I've been using Tan-Kote with good results but I don't know if it's as durable as Resolene but I can brush it on and it evens out nicely. Bronson

Overall a nice website but I would have to agree with John. Bronson

You could always tell the customer "no", or charge him such a ridiculously high up-charge for the extra work that he decides not to have it done Bronson

It's always a joy to see your work and these new ones are really beautiful. Bronson

Most of the people in my life know of my interest in guns but it's always interesting when I run into a co-worker or somebody who doesn't know me that well and they see a full sized 1911 hanging off my hip (I often open carry). As of yet I've had zero negative responses. Bronson

Ruger GP100--retention strap mostly works, if I make another one I'll adjust the position so it works better. I've since added a tension screw in front of the frame. http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/3872530473/in/set-72157606586066759/ S&W 60 with unfluted cylinder. http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/3407744406/in/set-72157606586066759/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/3407746584/in/set-72157606586066759/ Taurus 905--the first all leather holster I made. http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/2740299638/in/set-72157606586066759/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/2739465887/in/set-72157606586066759/ Bronson

Those are some nice looking holsters. The only thing that I saw that I might change would be to round the corners on the back side of the mouth reinforcement on the first one. I could see that snagging or possible digging into somebody if they didn't have a t-shirt under it. But seriously, those are really beautiful. Bronson

I appreciate the help guys but I can't seem to articulate in words what I'm trying to convey. Twin Oaks, when I try that I get the twisted strap thing I talked about that prevents the strap from laying flat. I think it's something I'm going to have to live with. Bronson

I mostly open carry and when I do I prefer to use a holster with some form of active retention device. I want the strap to go between the c&l hammer and the firing pin. The first one I made ended up having the snap interfere with the safety and I removed the strap and relegated that holster to CC duty. I've looked at some holsters in the local gun store and they seem to just move the snap a little farther forward but when I do that it twists the strap so it doesn't lay nice and flat against the back of the slide. I'm just looking for options and ideas of different ways to approach this. Pics would be great. Thanks guys, Bronson p.s. Here's a link to a photo of that first 1911 holster. The strap has already been removed in this pic but you can still see the holes where the snap and the reinforcing tab rivet were located. http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/4289025514/in/set-72157606586066759/

Would anybody be willing to post pics of how you orient retention straps for 1911s so they don't interfere with the safety in cocked & locked? If I move the attaching snap on the body shield a little forward so it clears the safety I can't seem to get the strap to lay nice and flat along the back of the slide. Is this correctable or is it just something I'm going to have live with? Thanks, Bronson

I like 'em all but I particularly like the basketweave on the top one. Bronson