Bronson

We have an upholstery shop at work and when they make straps they sandwich fabric like a lightweight denim inside the leather straps. This keeps the straps from stretching out since the denim doesn't stretch. Has anybody tried anything like that on holster straps? Bronson

Those aren't imperfections. A knife maker friend of mine calls them "subtle variations in the hand-crafted product." Bronson

I could use a: Sig 2022 Bersa UC PRO 9 & 40 (the newer versions with the rail) And I third the idea for the revolver dummy guns with interchangeable barrels Bronson

First...damn you make nice stuff. Second, it looks like you may be cutting it a little close on the spacing between the grip and the top of the rear wing. I'm currently looking at redoing an IWB holster I made for a friend. It works just fine for my slim girly hands but his manly meat-paws don't have enough room to get a comfortable grip....my holster had about the same spacing as yours. Bronson

Good to know. Thanks, Bronson

So I wanted to try my hand at some exotic inlays/overlays so I ordered some of the remnants from Springfield leather. Anybody have any luck re-dying exotics that have already been dyed? I'll probably try to use most of the stuff as it came to me but was just curious if there is anything I should do or watch for if I want to try dying some of it black. Thanks, Bronson

Comptac also sells their clips. http://www.comp-tac.com/catalog.php?cPath=21&osCsid=kihanoaa487fp17v1dp008fs50 They're not difficult to make. Bronson

Some advice given to me from a $$ savvy friend was to start two businesses. The business that actually makes the end product will be an LLC so your personal finances will be protected in case of lawsuit and the second businesss will own every single piece of equipment and lease it to the LLC holster making company. The LLC should have as close to zero assets as possible. Bronson

If you're inclined to accept rush orders I'd say have a policy in place but don't advertise it. Let the people that want a rush order ask for it. If I were to do it I'd also double the fee on everything. Bronson

My local range had one for rent and my impression was pretty much the same as yours. I also experienced a pretty interesting failure that I've never had with any other revolver. The extractor slipped over the rim of one of the empty cases. I couldn't get the empty case out and I couldn't force the extractor back over the rim. I ended up putting a pencil down the front of the cylinder and knocking out the empty case. It was the worst malfunction I've ever had in a revolver. Bronson

My goodness that is a beautiful holster. I would much rather see something simple in design but with outstanding workmanship than something flashy that is poorly made. Bronson

I wish I would have gone with 12 ton simply it's a floor model. I have the 6 ton and it works fine but it takes up a chunk of my work bench. By the time I buy a stand for it I could have bought the 12 ton floor model when it's on sale. Bronson

A U.S. Quarter is about 1/16" thick. So you're saying that you use thread that is as thick as three U.S. Quarters stacked up? Bronson

I was once advised by one of the pro holster makers here on LW.net that his process went like this... 1) Dip the holster in dye. Let it dry then buff the holster. 2) Dip the holster in Resolene. Let it dry then it's done. Bronson

Get the book, it's all in there. Bronson

Would you knowingly build a house on an unstable foundation? The belt is the foundation of your carry rig. Bronson

Perfectfit.com has the kit (with dies) for $106.00. You'd still need the special pull the dot die though. I never had luck setting the pull the dots with the little punch and anvil doohicky. Bronson

A beautiful holster like that for a Glock?! Talk about putting lipstick on a pig Bronson

I have access to one of these snap setting tools where I work http://www.seattlefabrics.com/Press%20Snap.jpg It does require a special die (part number PNS-PTD, second from the bottom) . You may be able to find it cheaper with a little searching. Bronson

I do it just a little different than gregintenn described. I too use a manila folder but for simplicity I like to have the crease in the folder always follow the top of the slide so I draw the belt on the folder at a 15 degree angle to the crease. Half of one, six of dozen of the other Bronson

To me it looks like it would be altogether too easy to snag the muzzle or the front sight on the lace. A corollary to Murphy's Law is that not only WILL things go wrong but they will go wrong at the exact time you need them NOT to. If the gun can get snagged, it will...at the worst possible time. Bronson

I've got one of those....but I don't have it setup yet. I've been using sanding drums in a drill but I've slowly killed the drill because it's not meant to take sideways pressure. I've just picked up a cheap Harbor Freight straight shaft electric die grinder to replace the drill. It is made to take sideways pressure so hopefully it'll last a little longer. I think I'll need to hook it up to a dimmer switch or something though because it's only got one speed. My process right now is to put the rough drum in and sand it flat & smooth. Then the fine drum goes in to smooth it a little more. Then I cut the stitch grooves and after the edges are bevelled I smooth/round the edge by hand with some 220 grit sandpaper before burnishing. Bronson

I cut my stitch grooves after I've glued both pieces together and sanded the edges flat & smooth. Then I cut the groove around the edges on both sides because the adjustable stitch groover will give me the same distance on front and back. The trick to this is to do it after you've sanded the edges flat but before you bevel the edges. For the stitch grooves that follow the profile of a gun I do the same as Shooter McG. Bronson

Read around here on LW.n as there are some other methods that also appear to give great results. Bronson

I'd move the grommets closer to the profile of the 'hawk and lose the bottom grommet on both sides. Bronson