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@toxo, thank you for that detailed explanation. I was planning to do something like that but you have put it down into proper instructions. I'm saving that information so that I can find it when I need it! Someday soon, probably, since I do not currently plan on selling my leather work. See, there is a wise saying in Hindi that applies to me and leatherwork. Translated it means: "If the mare falls in love with the hay, what will she eat?" I love the leather things that I make and am loathe to part with them. Better not to consider leatherwork as a business until I come down from the infatuation that I have for all things leather, especially the things that I make. At this point, it is what I do to relax. I think I will keep it that way a little longer. Your bag is beautiful and practical! love the buckle. And the leather, is it buffalo calf?

I envy you there! Sometimes cutting by hand is a little tiresome and I get impatient with the time taken! Curves are easy with a round knife though. That is all I use round knives for these days. Small to large, the sizes matter.

@toxo Thank you. I will check there too. I came across Instructable and their contests and submissions by chance. I find all this particularly useful to learn specific techniques now, rather than entire items. These days, I am trying to come up with my own designs It's fun. I'm planning to use Inkscape for the pattern. I just attended the Inkscape tutorial with Elk Track Studios. Excellent class for beginners.

I recently found on Instructables, several free patterns for leather items. The same patterns, in a more polished manner, are for sale on Etsy. I wonder which came first? Several are too similar to be just coincidence. Now, when I want the pattern of something, I plan to check Instructables first.

I hope you get everything that you need.

Welcome to the forum! I suggest you go to theleatherguy.com. They have great instructional segments about the basics of leather - from types, to how to measure thickness and types to just about everything else. Weaver leather also has something similar. Between the two, you should get most of the information that you need to start leatherwork. They have tables and pictures of everything - I downloaded everything when I first started leatherwork and it really helps. They should also have the tool to check leather thickness - a handy little plastic thingy that tells you the thickness and corresponding ounces. after a while, you will learn to discern that with just a look. Good luck!

Eco-flo is notorious for transferring, so cannot say. Diluted Resolene or something similar, with buffing, might help, before you use the balm. Buff until there is no more transfer onto your buffer.

If you are happy with the dyeing, now would be the time to use the Balm with atom wax. Atom wax contains mainly Carnauba wax which forms a protective, water resistant layer and gives a shine to the leather. So it is a finishing balm. Is there any specific reason why you conditioned with Atom wax before dyeing? Before dyeing, neatsfoot oil is normally used and it works well.

These are really good. They were recommended by someone here, I forget who or in which thread. They are silver pens with refills at a very reasonable price. I lost the top of one of the pens weeks ago and it still works fine! I doubt I will need to buy more in this life! LOL I mean 4 pens with 50 refills...50! Amazon.com: 54 Pcs Leather Marking Pen Silver Fabric Markers Pen Set, 4 Pcs Pen Barrel with 50 Pcs Silver Leather Markers Refills for Sewing, Leather, DIY Dressmaking, Quilting Supplies

Try a coat of petroleum jelly. Apply and buff off a couple of times. It makes leather pretty water-proof and is the main ingredient of Aussie's leather conditioner which so many swear by. It is probably perspiration which dampens the leather and causes the dye to rub off, in which case this might help. Check this thread for more information about petroleum jelly/Vaseline.

I just realized today, that in earlier times, oak gall ink was made by soaking powdered oak gall in water while also, in a different utensil, soaking old iron nails etc. in Vinegar. Both liquids were then strained separately and mixed to make the ink. No different from the reaction that leatherworkers use to dye leather black with Vinegaroon. I know the same reaction can be used on wood too. So that is two completely different ways the same reaction was used - as an ink and as a dye. I wonder if there were others.

Nice! I have to make a couple of new ones too.

Immediately after dyeing and drying completely, before any further treatment, you needed to buff the liner until no more dye came off on the buffer. An old clean T-shirt works for this. The buffing removes the excess dye. Right now, if the dye comes off, buffing might still work. You can follow that up with Neatlac or diluted Resolene in several coats. Buff in between coats so that if the coating affects the dye in any way, you are taking it off. Allow to dry before buffing.

One way would be to decrease the tannins by using washing soda or tannin cleanser on the leather first before treating with Vinegaroon, since tannins are needed to get a deep black color. Another way would be to make a new batch with very little iron added, so that the Vinegaroon will be very dilute. Try it every few hours on scrap leather until you get the shade that you need.

Oops. You caught me. Good idea about the dropper bottle though.