SUP

This is the front of the prototype. I cannot as yet upload the gusset pic. Will do so in a while.

Why not create a prototype with paper first? The bag appears to be a very long rectangle forming the 2 main sides and the gussets being wider at the top (trapezoid) and stitched onto the main part to form a rectangular base. Once put together, the extra material on the trapezoid shaped gussets should form that fold on each gusset naturally. With paper, you can manipulate the width of the top of the trapezoid shape of the gusset to your satisfaction and the base as well. After that, translating into a leather bag should be simple. NOTE: I just made a prototype with paper and I apologize - it is not a trapezoid on the sides, it is a pentagon. Pics follow.

Don't we face the same problems with our tools ? 4 mm chisels are all measured from different points, for example and give stitches of different length, depending on the maker. I think it is a matter of being 'different' from what came earlier and/or making more money on the other essentials. Think cell phone chargers. Thank goodness these need to be of a generic type now. Thank you EU! Think American English as well. When I first came to the US after a lifetime of British English, it was so much more evident.

You could do as I did. I got a humidity monitor with several sensors - placed them all around in the room. Then I could decide which areas needed a humidifier and which needed a de-humidifier. I bought several small humidifiers and dehumidifiers and placed them as needed. I check the monitor daily and maintain a healthy humidity for my leathers. Before that, I bought those packets of moisture absorbers and placed them near the leathers if the humidity was too high. They helped as well. If the door to your inventory room is kept open for long periods, this will not work though. Humidifiers and dehumidifiers are most useful when areas are kept enclosed. I keep the door to my room closed at all times, opening only to enter or leave.,

Around 45-55% is good. You could have smaller, portable dehumidifiers close to where the leather items are stored. I have 2 sensors in the same room, one near the leathers and one some distance away. Depending on whether I place a dehumidifier close to the leathers or not, the humidity readings on these sensors differ. So while you might not e able to get the humidity down in the whole room, you can do so in specific areas.

@NatesLeatherGds Thank you.

@fredk, I'm afraid I'm going to be later than that. I'm going to Jim Linnell's classes! 2 of them over the week-end - Friday - to refine swivel knife techniques and Saturday to learn how to make leather jewelry - specifically how to make stones like Turquoise realistically. On Sunday he is teaching figure carving. I might not be able to go for it. But 2 classes itself will be a great learning experience.

@Danne, I saw that earlier. you have shown it so well. However, mine was multiple layers of about 4-5oz chrome-tanned leather, with curves and whatnot, and the leather has synthetic layers on both surfaces. I dare not apply any heat. Sanding directly was not an option, in fact sanding was not an option until it had a good layer of primer on it. Furthermore, with 4 layers, at least for me, the edges were not even and needed to be evened out before I could think of creasing or anything else. The edges could not be evened out by cutting so it had to be by building up the uneven sections. After the edges were leveled out, creasing etc. would have been possible.

@fredk I've been a bit lax, I'm afraid. You have added a lot of information here. I need to pull up my socks and get to work! Since the cold days are gone, I will check what effect the cold and humidity here have had on the leathers and update in the next few days. @dikman Thank you.

@NatesLeatherGds, thank you. @bruce johnson I've not tried wax as yet. I needed a bright matching color for the leather. Mixing colors to get a match was a pain and acrylics look different when wet and dry. I will try wax next. A gentle burnish would be nice. I used Uniter's primer and I am happy with it. I will try Martin's mix and Sarah Hagel's product too though. It is good to have a choice. Only thing is, this leather is of a firm temper, so the stiffening of the edge with the primer and acrylic paint worked. I'm not sure how to keep the edge soft on softer leathers and yet have it edge finished as well.

I recently finished a bag of chrome tanned leather and over some frustrating weeks, learnt first-hand how edge-finishing chrome-tanned edges is different from edge-finishing veg-tanned leathers. This is what I experienced: I had to stitch 4 layers of chrome-tanned leather together. It is evidently a split with synthetic coating. No matter how hard I tried, the edges of the 4 layers could not be cut exactly level to provide a single smooth, level edge. I had to edge finish. Not being veg-tanned leather, I could not use Tokonole or gum trag and burnish it, so edge paint it had to be. But that paint looked ugly and rough, so I had to sand it down. But sanding damaged the synthetic material and leather giving an even rougher texture, so I realized I needed a primer. The primer, a single thin coat, did not do much. It was still very rough and sanding still made a mess. So I applied another thin layer, and another and then sanded. By now, the primer layer was sufficient to coat the edges of all the 4 layers well and I could sand down until I reached the leather in the edges of all 4 layers that were the highest and left the remaining sections of all the edges untouched. I applied primer again. And repeated. By now, the lower sections of the edges of all 4 layers had built up to be more or less level. When I sanded next, they were level. I painted, sanded lightly and painted again, and got a reasonably nice edge. I could have continued to get a really shiny beautiful finish but stopped there. Through the process, I learnt this about chrome-tanned leather edge finishing. I need to build up the edge to the highest level using a primer and then paint the edges, so that it is smooth. This is the opposite of what we usually do with edge-finishing veg-tanned leather, where we flatten the leather using beeswax or other agents. Now peeling can be a real issue when building up layers of primer and paint – it is after all only acrylic something. That is why I kept sanding as much as possible only until the lower layers built up. As sanding roughens the surface, that also helps a bit to hold the paint in place. I’m still not sure whether thicker coats of primer and paint are better or thinner ones since there are proponents of both. My primer is a bit thick so I could not make a very thin layer. I made it as thin as possible. Now only time will tell how it works out. All this is surely known to experienced leatherworkers. I could not find it anywhere - probably more an oversight on my part since I am sure there will be some kind souls out there who will have explained it much better. For me, knowing why I do something helps me do it better. That is why, once I understood the principle behind using those primers and paints, I thought I would share it here. I would love to hear more about this from all who have been using this for years.

@Sheilajeanne I'll certainly post photographs,

I will. Rather excited about it.

Ha! Just got an email from Tandy - I believe they are providing all the tools and she was mistaken. That's a relief, though I will be taking along my swivel knives because I am comfortable with them. Thank you all for your input, guidance and information.

@dikman I could not presume that, not these days where even Amazon has earrings for men. LOL Joking aside, it really helps and I showed the photographs in detail here, for precisely that reason. Get the colorful ones from Temu and the variety of earring-backs as well so you can decide which work best for you.

Yes. That's true. While I cannot say I am skilled.. neither sufficient time nor practice at it, I am in the process of trying to make my own stamps. I love to try everything. so... getting some large flat headed nails... drills ... Let's see what I can come up with, if anything.

He is teaching how to refine skills, yes, which is precisely why I want to take those classes. I do know tooling and have done it, just not to a great extent. While I have some 40-50 stamps and sufficient swivel knives, I do not have all those required for extensive tooling or all those in the list, . But I do want to learn more so I can decide whether it is something I want to invest in or do further. I am at least planning to go refine my swivel knife skills.

LOL. It is 2024. In my case it is the wife collecting the knives.

Yes, that works for laced bags as well. I am working on reproducing a 1970s Tandy pattern and that is how I made the gusset and it fits well.

@DieselTech just the leatherwork ones - round knives, head knives... These days I refuse to look anywhere where there are knives. Strong self control needed. LOL The thing is, all I really use in my leatherwork is a box cutter from Stanley, their cheapest, fixed blade older model and one of two round knives, a vintage W Rose west Phila when I need a smaller round knife and a Henckel when I need a larger one. The rest look beautiful on my wall and keep me busy every few weeks cleaning and re-waxing them. LOL I use them periodically for the fun of it but can manage fine with just the regular 3. In fact, I guess I could manage with just the box cutter too. But that is no fun and for me, leatherwork is mainly fun and relaxation.

Recently, when I attended all the beginner's classes in Tandy, they provided everything. They have all that is asked for except for some of the specialized stamps and I would have understood if they had said we need to bring some of those. But the number and sizes requirements, including the basic items, is ridiculous. If theft were a concern in my local Tandy, they would not provide all of those for their regular classes. I have been provided most everything except for the specialized stamps in earlier classes - not kit associated either. I suspect this is the tools list provided by Jim Linnell and the manager is just passing it on instead of checking that she has those and letting attendees know which Tandy will provide and which to take to the class with them.

@bruce johnson I will look into subscribing for ShopTalk. I would love to learn about what stamps are available and which would serve my purpose. Do you recall which issues have your articles? Sticker shock is more because I dislike spending more than I need to. I have no issue with spending well for items that I actually need and will use. And of course, tooling is finally a matter of tooler talent, something which I have to work on quite a bit yet. An artist can do great work with ordinary tools, a not-so-talented person cannot , even with the best or most expensive of tools. I would like to work to at least not be in the latter category, even if I do not get into the former one. And trade shows? Would love to go to them but in this atmosphere, I am a little reluctant to travel to unknown places in the mid-West. Safety is prime, especially in election year. About the Jim Linnell classes at Tandy, they are during their open store hours on Friday, Saturday and Sunday and will be held in the same place where they have their regular classes, with their staff present. In fact, their staff expected to provide the tools until the manager 'enlightened' them. I can understand needing to take tools and stones to trade show classes. That is not a regular class venue held by the show organizers who also hold similar classes while providing all the tools. Anyway, I'll decide over the next few days. One of the classes does not have such a big list and I will probably attend at least that. It is being held locally and how can I not grab the opportunity to learn from one of the best? @DieselTech yes, that is what happens. Since for me leatherwork is a hobby, I am reluctant to spend more than I need or to end up with boxes and boxes of tools that I will probably not much use. Like my knife stock! I would like to try different things and then decide, which is what I was hoping for with these classes. Even if I decide to sell, I doubt it will be tooled items - more like well constructed items like bags and footwear and sundry things. But I want to learn tooling as well. It is such a big part of leatherwork. And your first attempt is great; you are right to be proud of it. @jrdunn thank you for the link. I will watch it some time today.

@jrdunn I think the link did not get attached. @DieselTech exactly! Those stones are so heavy! That list is cut and pasted from Tandy's email to me telling me what I need to take along. for the class. Puts me off completely. I know Jim Linnell has his own site and classes I can buy for much less. And learn at home. Won't be the same but I won't need to carry along so much or buy so many instruments just to learn from him personally. I suspect Tandy is not much pleased with him for some reason. Normally, in all Tandy's classes, they provide the tools. So this is surprising. I have some stamps, not too may because I am not yet doing much tooling or stamping. But I do have loads of leather sides of all types and so many knives! Can never resist them although I have just 2 all time favorites. The rest look nice on my wall. Taken down periodically, cleaned, waxed and kept back... used rarely. LOL We should have a thread of tools for leatherwork - tools actually, most frequently used and needed versus 'great brands' so newbies do not die of sticker shock like I did a year ago.

Some tools, yes but tooling stone? That's a bit much. I need to carry in a suitcase for the class. I would have thought, if Tandy provides the tools then attendees would learn and buy what they need after the class, like happens in their other classes. Here, we will buy things elsewhere and they will not get much sales. This becomes a case of getting all the tools even before knowing whether it is something one wants to invest in. The list of tools needed is quite detailed and substantial.

I was planning to attend Jim Linnell's classes at Tandy next week-end but might drop the idea. Tandy insists that I bring all the tools - tooling stone, mallet swivel knife, strop, stylus, modelling spoon, hair blade, wing dividers, petal lifter, basic floral carving stamps in medium to small sizes, figure carving bevelers of medium to small sizes, and background matting stamps. I am surprised because they normally provide all that during their own classes, so Tandy has the stock to provide to attendees.. I don't have all that and hoped to learn how to use them and then buy what I needed. Will not attend that class now. Is this how it always is for Jim Linnell's classes or anyone else's classes in Tandy? Does anyone have any experience with this?