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A bit late in this thread, but don't coconut oil, almond oil etc. get oxidized over time? I have heard they do.

@TomGEco-flo bleeds so easily, I think I will just compromise on the color and try something else. Thank you. It saves me continuous trials when I have a million other things to learn about leatherworking.

@TomG does it prevent bleeding of Eco-flo dyes as well? I can find a color that I want only in Eco-FLo but it bleeds heavily the moment it comes in contact with water. Still trying on scrap, luckily. If not, will have to compromise and move to something else.

Tarps! Already ordered some huge ones that will cover my work area, floor included. The advantages of being a newbie with oldies' (only in terms of experience, no age-related offence intended; besides, I'm old!) experiences to read about is invaluable. Thank you all!

Good thing the weather is not so cold these days!

It cannot be undone. A hug. kiss, apology and offer to do whatever she wants to remedy the matter... You realize it is possible she might want to change all the flooring and this will be the perfect chance?

That is exactly my husband's reaction when I tell him not to do something and he does...and it goes wrong!

That sounds painful! And having no feeling feels weird, isn't it? Does your smartphone respond to that thumb? Mine doesn't. And that is an idea. Using the non-feeling finger-tips to push needles. Will try that today.

I have something similar and they are really useful. I hate wearing them, though I have recently started doing so. As it is, I do not have much feeling in my finger-tips because of a dog attack and with gloves, I can feel virtually nothing. Feels a little weird, but less weird than seeing blood everywhere and having to search for the wound.

You and some others might not agree with what I have to say but I will say it anyway. You say you have not even cut a piece of leather or stitched a single stitch. Then how do you know you will like leatherworking or enjoy it enough to keep at it consistently? I know people say 'Buy the best you can afford" but that, to me, is only once one is sure of of staying in leatherworking and knowing what one will be making. I would suggest, get a simple leatherworking kit from Amazon. Should be no more than $100.00 or so. They usually have everything you need to make things like bags and boxes. Get some not too expensive leather from Tandy or elsewhere. Work with both. Wanting to make specific items is one thing; enjoying it enough to keep at it consistently is quite another. Once you are sure of your interest and direction of interest, look for and purchase the 'best' tools. By then, you will also have an idea of what you need - some of the items in the kits are fine. Others will need to be replaced. A tool does not have to have a high end name attached to be of good quality. Not today, with so many players in the manufacturing field. You will then look for the specific items you actually need rather than what you think you need. Just a suggestion.

I have been experimenting with both Tan kote and Resolene and like Tan kote better, because Resolene gives a harder shine and impermeable finish.. Both Tan Kote and Resolene cause the freshly applied dye to come off on the material you use to apply them, especially Tan kote. I in fact, I use Tan kote to get an antique finish without using antique dye. I use Resolene when I do not care much about how the item looks. You will just have to experiment on pieces of scrap leather and decide what is best for your current project - there are others besides Resolene and Tan kote like Super sheen or Satin sheen or even plain mineral oil. With the information provided by so many leathercrafters in this thread, a Google search and the SDS may help you make an informed decision. About Neatsfoot oil and Mink oil, I am surprised that you say it hardens leather. Quite the contrary, in fact. Neatsfoot oil is used to soften hardened leather and if used too much, can make the leather too soft. They are also much more stable than oils like olive oil coconut oil, almond oil and others many recommend for leather. I suspect both have been given a bad name by companies peddling leather conditioners and people, in all innocence, believed and ran with it. Leather goes hard and dry not because of the use of these oils but because the leather has not been properly taken care of and conditioned. That is required periodically to maintain leather in optimum form, no matter what conditioner is used.

The knives I use most often are small decorated ones I got on Amazon - 8 items for about $15.00, in a container! Good reviews and I bought them before I learnt anything about good knives. They are very sharp, cut the 4-5 oz leather I use, easily and not gone dull yet. Easy to cut around corners, angles and curves and perfect for cutting leather for smaller items. Not sharpened or stropped them yet. No idea how long before I will need to sharpen them but good for a beginner stepping into the leatherworking world. Also the price is right! I plan to buy another set before the good reviews push up the price, if it has not gone up already. I think someone buys these and sells them on ebay for $20.00. Getting more comfortable with round knives so I suspect that will become my favorite soon. Of course, I am a noob, so not much experience yet but I had to mention these surprising knives.

Just found another thread about this: I believe it is called 'block dyeing' or 'reverse dyeing'. This is the thread, for anyone else looking for it.

Yes. True. It will be a while because I have to get up the courage to make it! Will need to get some basic tools as well. Having never done anything with metal or wood, I am delighted to be doing it but a little apprehensive as well. This is, I know child's play for most, but for me, something new. I will put up pics.

Exactly! And after a dozen ugly finishes, this looked nice. Although that is the only part which looks good! LOL. I think I accidentally did exactly what you describe. I used a paper towel for applying the antique dye - I just blotted it around - therefore the blotchy appearance - and did not want it very dark, so diluted it and rubbed that very lightly all over. I will try that method again. Apply the first dye, allow to dry completely and then lightly apply the 2nd dye with a cotton cloth just skimming over the surface so the stamped parts do not take the dye. Maybe the 2nd dye should not be diluted - a thicker dye will not easily seep into the depressed parts of the stamp - will experiment with concentrations of the dye as well. Also, the paper towel is slightly stiffer than cotton cloth and that might make a difference too. Thank you.

Whenever I make anything with veg-tanned leather, I practice cutting leather, stitching, dying, etc. in different ways. I experiment, so each item looks weird but does its job and I learn something in the process. I made this sheath for a round knife and experimented with dying. Stamped a few random designs, light brown dye, tan-kote, antique gel, resist again. Same thing on both sides. Experimented with manner of application, ergo the blotchy appearance. Please ignore the crooked stamping and the blotchiness. On one side, in one section, the stamps are light. The rest of the stamping got dyed with the antique gel. I liked the effect of the depressed part of the stamps being light and the raised part staining with the dye and antique gel. That part has taken both dyes because without the light brown dye, the antique gel gives a dull brown color, not this reddish brown one. I tried to replicate that look but cannot. I applied the resist lightly on one piece, heavily on another. I tried wiping away some resist on the stamped area. Nothing gave this clean finish. It just looked a mess. Anyone who has made this effect, could you please guide me on this?

I am noting down all the advice. Thank you everyone!

Sorry to hear about your trauma of almost losing your daughter. So glad she is okay. The clip is beautiful! You've captured the shape and shades very well.

It truly is! I will do that. I am delighted that I will be doing something with wood too. Always wanted to work with my hands and never go a chance until now. You can, I hope, teach an old dog new tricks!

Afraid not. That is 4 1/2 hours away.

Sounds painful - later! Stitches always seem to me to be more painful than actual wounds - that needle pulling through skin - leather too, after all!

If you want to learn about leather and know nothing about it, a good way to start is to first learn about different classifications of leather - on google - broadest classification is real and faux. I presume you want to work with natural leather, in which case one way to classify is by tannage, in its broadest form - veg-tanned, chrome-tanned. Get an idea of how they look and feel - again google - then walk into a leather store if you have one close by and look around. Ask questions. There are too many types and classifications to just explain in answer to a very general question.

ALthough I like a wooden handle and do not want to cover it with anything.

I will have to reshape it to get a more comfortable hold. So maybe the wood first and then the Plasti-dip? Yes AlZilla. I would appreciate the grip blanks. I will send you my address separately.

That's a good idea dikman and chuck123wapati. Actually the handle is quite thick (not visible in the photographs) and I can hold it but because of the angular faces, it is not too comfortable. My concern is that it might slip. So the wood or leather on either side - I can certainly do that. How do I get hard leather though? Is it available? Will soaking and drying make it hard - like when wet molding? I have found a bag that is absolutely hard - like cardboard and there is nothing needed to stiffen it. So something similar. I could not find anything like it in Tandy though, even when I asked, back in January. They could not even explain how to make leather hard in a similar way. I am thinking of gluing wood or leather on either side and then covering it with something waterproof - wood and leather can both rot if wet and it will get wet when sharpening the knife, since I use water on my whetstones. On top of the waterproof layer, I can wrap thinner leather of any sort, to get it to a shape that is convenient to hold. At the most if it gets mold, I can re-wrap and do not have to do the entire thing.