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Showing results for tags 'blade'.
Found 11 results
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I recently acquired a Bob Douglas awl haft and blade, and I must say - the awl haft is brilliant. I was dreading installing the blade in the haft on account of not having a vise to hold the blade between two pennies nor having experience with working with epoxy to stick the blade in. To install the blade into the Bob Douglas haft, you simply unscrew the ferrule nut, insert the blade, then tighten the nut. It self-centers, and it's brilliantly simple to swap between blades. Truly a work of functional art.
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OK, so bear with me, this may be a really dumb question but I'm asking it anyway: I've recently started to do more carving. I have one swivel knife with the 3/8" blade it came with. I want to get different blades for it to do finer work, but some of the blades are 1/4" and I can't find a 1/4" swivel knife. Can I use those blades in the knife I have? Or am I just not looking hard enough? I'm confused, and I don't want to spend more than I have to. Thanks in advance.
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I recently purchased this Landis splitter - blade missing. Anyone have an idea where I might purchase a blade, used or new?
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Hi, I need to regrind my Champion D splitter blade, what is the correct angle please. I have read threads on this subject here but no one seems to have given a diffinitave number (30, 40?). thanks John
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Hello All - Does anyone know the original depth of blades used on an American LS440 splitter (Landis 30). I just picked one up this weekend and it seems that the blade that came with the unit is just shy of 2 7/8" and barely touches the adjustment screws. I would like to get one fabricated locally out of treated O1 steel. Much appreciated!
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Barry King awl handle with flat side and Bob Douglas standard awl blade (used on one small project). Selling together. $50 plus $5 shipping in CONUS. PM for details on payment.
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I've recently acquired two manual skiving / splitting machines. Both are very old but in very good working condition. The blades on both I would like to source spare blades. I would say there is no chance of 'off the shelf' blades. One of them looks about the same size as a woodworking plane blade. The other, which has two holes in it to mount the blade, is a lot squarer but could be similar to a large spoke-shave blade. What I would like is either 1/ blades I can cut down to size 2/ blade stock I can cut to size and sharpen 3/ somewhere in UK that can make me blades to fit The sizes are (width across blade x length x thickness) 1/ 1 3/4" x 3 3/4" x 1/8" 2/ 2 1/2" x 2 1/4" x 1/8" As these are both old English machines the sizes will all be imperial. Can anyone help? Claire PS I haven't the facilities to retemper or put in a temper of anything.
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Hello awl Does anyone have any tips on how to do a butt-stitch with only a straight awl blade and needles? I know that most people use a curved awl blade but the only ones I can get are from Tandy Leather and I have found their awl blades to be sub-par at best. (Yes, I can get them sharp enough to work, but they don't seem to hold an edge worth a darn and the last ones took hours of work to get them sharp enough). I have a Bob Douglas awl blade and haft and I am supremely happy with them. I hope that they can somehow be used for this method. Any tips, tutorials or videos would be very helpful!
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I was watching a video and saw a beader blade that actually cut into the leather and not just burnish it. The one I have now the "blades"are rounded so you cut your main lines then run your beader blade one side in your cut line. Your second line is more of a burnished line that looks cut. I would like to at some point in the near future get a 1/8" beader blade that actually cuts the leather on both lines for the borders. Does anyone know if anyone makes one like this? Trying to figure out who made the one I saw in the video.
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For those of you who own a pull-through splitter do you prefer a micro-bevel on the blade's cutting edge? I just purchased the small Tandy/Craftool splitter and noticed it comes with a very slight/small micro-bevel on the angled side of the blade. Straight out of the box the blade was only okay. After a little polishing of the blade's flat edge using 600 grit wet-dry paper laid on flat glass along with a little stropping it was much better. Most leather samples pulled through with just a little effort on my part. That said . . . would I get a sharper edge and better cut if I removed the blade's top side micro-bevel? As for sharpening the flat side, isn't a piece of plate glass a flat enough surface for the wet-dry paper sharpening/polishing? I've read some posts suggesting the use of a granite "machinist grade" precision surface stone. Is that over-kill? Actually, I'm please with my little splitter. It get's the job done without breaking the bank! Just trying to improve it's performance. Thanks for your time, Lippy
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To anyone who has used a Bob Douglas awl blade - what brands of hafts will they fit other than the Bob Douglas brand hafts? I understand that they fit hafts by BearMan (custom) Osborne (not sure which size) Has anyone else used them with other brands like Tandy or Dixon? I'm trying to save on $$ and use the tools I already have. Thanks for the input.
