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I got hugely inspired by @Tastech to do some more serious repair work on a riding boot this time home. Our oldest son works full time as a rider at a jumping stable, and his old daily boots had come apart. The glues outsole had loosened completely, my guess is that it happened since the insole was only made of some pressed cardboard like material, and the uppers were only glued to the underside of it, so at some point everything started to loosen and the boot was damaged. I took off the outsole and inspected the boot. The midsole was also some cardboard like material, and that was removed as well. I made a new insole from a piece of veg tan leather, tracing the remains of the original insole and guessing how the tip should look. The new insole was glued in place and I used a curved awl with a hook on it to make a lock stich to attach the uppers to the insole. Since the original sole didn't have a sewing channel, I thought that I'd better not change the design too much and that's why I chose the lock stitching method. When the insole was in place, I glued the sole stiffener in. I didn't have any cork filler, and I had too little patience to get some. So I tried to make my own filler from latex paint, sawdust and PVA glue. It looked all right, but I after letting it dry I as afraid that it would not hold up to the job, so I removed it all again. I didn't want to risk that the sole came off because of my homemade filler. After spending a lot of time removing the sawdust paint filler, I decided to fill in the voids with some scraps of veg tan instead. That went surprisingly well, and after attaching the mid sole, I rigged up an old round sanding wheel, and roughed up the bottom and shaped it to correspond to the inside of the sole. After one failed glue attempt where I had placed the sole too far back, I managed to get a decent positioning and everything was hammered tight. I don't have a heel press at the moment, but hammering seemed to do the trick. I didn't time myself for the repair job, but given that a set of boots like those will most likely set you back around 600 US$, it is still worth spending a couple of hours doing it plus the added benefit that it is an interesting job and I like to learn something new. The biggest surprise for me was that the original insole and midsole were of such a crappy quality. And also that the upper and the insole/sole only relied on glue to hold it together. Aside from that, it was daunting at first to separate the boot, but once I got started it all seemed fairly logical. And given that the boot was so damaged that Gustav originally wanted to throw it away, I didn't risk much except investing a bit of time and learning something in the case that I hadn't been able to repair it. Damaged Cavallo riding boot. Close up of the damaged part of the boot. Sole, inner lining, midsole, insole with stiffener on it. The new insole is glued in place prior to stitching. Wavy stitching, done with a hook-awl, it doesn't look pretty, but I think it holds better than no sewing. The white stuff is the remains of the homemade paint/glue/sawdust filler. Now the voids have been filled with veg tan that is glued in place. New midsole installed and the underside has been shaped on the sanding wheel. The sole is glued on again and the boot should hopefully hold up for a bit more use.

So I don't know if this is the right place to ask for help but I have searched the entire internet for either similar boots or someone I could commission to make them for me. I'm looking for something based off of these: I wouldn't expect them to be exact because this is not a real picture but I really love these boots and I want something similar. If anyone could help with this or help me find someone who can that would be amazing. Price isn't an issue. My email is jacklynlemay (at) gmail.com Thank you!!

Howdy, I'm new to leather working. I've been doing it for close to two years now. I've been wanting to build myself a pair of all leather boots. I have no idea where to start. All the books I've searched online have mixed reviews and I want to make sure I get the right kind of leather for the soles. I have no cobbler specific tools but shoot it doesn't matter, if I need it, I'll get it. I've just been yearning to push my skills to another level and finally make something for myself. Thanks all.

I do a lot of heel and halfsole replacements in the shop and unfortunately these days it seems our Vibram heels aren't holding up like they used to. I had two pairs recently that were down to the washers and I put them on four months ago. Amazonas are supposedly as bad or worse. Anyone have a good cowboy heel that may be a bit harder construction for concrete and field work?

Looking for suppliers of leather suitable for making boot tops. I know there is a supply category, but figured this room would be easier to get an answer from the folks who know. if I need to move message boards, I will. Any help is appreciated in advance.

ISO supreme 60 shoe finisher/sander. I know what they cost new to ship so obviously I don't want to pay that much if possible. Any help is appreciated.

Wondering if anybody knows where I can buy boot boxes to ship boots? Any help is much appreciated.

As the title , how do I make lasts so l can make myself a pair of everyday boots. I have heard ofof plaster casts, feet in jelly and so on -but I want to end up with a pair of wood lastsI can make the boot directly onto. HELP! Best Wishes Claire

Hi, I'm going to try my hand at making an Ugg style snow boot for my toddler. I've done a bit of research and am trying to decide between using shearling scraps or rabbit fur hides. Never worked with hair on hide before and am expecting a few surprises. Couple Questions: The exterior of ugg boots are nice suede and I'm trying to figure out if I should use a separate piece of suede attached to the hairless side of the hides. I don't see how they can get those big shearling pieces with a perfect uniform suede finish on the back using just one hide. Any opinions? I'm not sure what to do with the edge of fur hide, possibly sew on a trim or edge binding around the tops and edges or maybe just do an overlay with thin decorative strips of 3oz, kind of like what you'd see with wingtips. Thanks in advance, KD

Hello all, I'm a beginning shoe and eventually boot maker in Utah. I'm just finishing up on my first pair of shoes. I will post my progress shortly when I can collect all the pictures and get them into one spot. My leather interests include shoe and boot making, bags, and whatever else I may come across. I hope to do some more learning and interacting. Before, I just went to this forum and perused but didn't become a member. Thanks!

Hello! I am attempting my first boot top purse for a customer and have seen several that other shops have made in person but cannot figure out what they have used for the bottom of the purse that is sturdy. I will be covering the bottom with chap leather and not just sewing the boot top bottoms together. I have seen a purse that had upholstery tacks pressed into the bottom to keep the bottom covering on but had no idea if it was heavy leather or cardboard, etc underneath. My question is, what does everyone use for purse bottoms and why? I am looking for something that is sturdy but not too heavy. Thanks in advance!

A local shoe repair man called me the other day and offered me his shoe repair equipment, and I have no idea what the stuff is worth, hopefully there is someone on here who can help me out. He told me he paid $6000 for the equipment, and wants me to make an offer, he tried giving it to the local museum, but they didn't have room, so I think he'd be pretty flexible on price. Included in the equipment is a Landis outsole stitcher, I believe a 12? and a spare one of the same model for parts, also a Landis "finisher" I don't remember a model number but it is an enormous chunck of cast iron, and I do not at the moment have a place to put it, but he turned it on and seemed to work fine. It had at least two brushes, two strops, four or five various sanding wheels, and extra sand paper for each, and a cutting head with a good selection of cutting blades for it. There is also a Landis cutting/skiving machine, with a few extra blades, and several shoe last stands, and what looked to me like a large selection of lasts. He had quite a few hand tools, new heels, soles (leather, and several thicknesses of rubber, and maybe some crepe material?)along with a lot of nails, screws, rivets, sewing string, needles, waxes, some leather (mostly scraps of maybe 4 to 5 ounce stuff, mayble for boot tops?). The guy also had an older machine he said he never uses, but it drives small wire brads, maybe for attaching heels or soles? He said something about some types of dress shoes, but I don't remember a model or maker on it. There was also a an older Singer leather machine, don't remember the model number, but it is a lighter machine, maybe for upholstery leather, or canvas, but it would not handle saddle skirting, which is a little more my interest. Like I said, I have no idea what the stuff is worth, but I don't have room for the big finishing machine, and it all has to go together (He wants rid of it) so I'm thinking of maybe trying to buy the whole lot, and resell some of it, but I'm not going to dive in unless I know I can come out with at least a cheap set of tools that I can use, but I'd prefer to be able to make a little money on the deal. Thanks for any help , Reid G.

As part of buying out a business I inherited a couple of different machines that don't fit my business model. I have here below an Auto Soler used to attach uppers and soles together on boots, shoes, and other items. It is located in the Greater Seattle Area and is ready for immediate pick-up, or delivery (nominal fees) within 2 hours of Seattle. Otherwise you will need to work with me to make arrangements to have it shipped. Unit is just over 5' 10" tall and about 12" square at the base and weight an estimated 200 lbs. (I can move it pretty easily by myself by walking it across the shop floor). I am asking $900 for it, but feel free to make an offer. Not pictured and to be posted soon: * Continental 8 boot nailer * Landis 12 E (yes and E model) All of these machines are in working condition and am finishing up maintenance of the 12E. If interested in any of these machines please drop an email. Images are too large at the moment so working on resizing them. Will post them soon.

I have a customer who has an elephant hide. I am making a holster and a belt with it. with the lkeft over he wants a pair of cowboy boots made. are there any boot makers in ga who can help.