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Posted (edited)

I can'

2 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

Does anyone here know the difference between Fiebings "Leather Dye" and their "Pro Dye"?  . . . 

I can't answer you directly but istr that there was a long discussion about this some time ago. But I can't find it yet

Try here; 

 

Edited by fredk

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

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Posted (edited)

If I had to pay high shipping prices for dye I'd be making my own dyes. I've used wood stain on leather works great , shoe polish works , I mean who says you have to use a particular leather dye. I've used coffee grounds. I'm sure you can find cheap local alternatives to color leather.Food coloring and vinegar are inexpensive and easy to clean up, and food coloring won't stain your skin as badly as other dyes and it will set into leather just as well as professional dye.

Edited by Bert03241
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Posted

some people have even used sh_t it works don't think I would use it but the old p_ss on steel wool works to just two ideas .

  • CFM
Posted
4 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

Does anyone here know the difference between Fiebings "Leather Dye" and their "Pro Dye"?  The Tandy US site lists both and implies the Pro dye is newer and improved but the Canadian site only lists the regular Leather Dye.  The shipping of these products is a pain as there is a $15 surcharge on top of regular courier shipping charges.  And they say they can only ship Purolator and not Canada Post.

Lonsdale Leather sells spirits-based dye. You don't have to stick with Fiebing's.

https://lonsdaleleather.com/collections/supplies/products/l-l-roma-colour-premium-leather-dye

Posted
On 4/4/2022 at 6:12 PM, Hardrada said:

Lonsdale Leather sells spirits-based dye. You don't have to stick with Fiebing's.

https://lonsdaleleather.com/collections/supplies/products/l-l-roma-colour-premium-leather-dye

Thank you (again!).  I ordered some dyes from Lonsdale yesterday and they're coming in about a week or so (Canada Post).  Lonsdale's web site says to pour some dye into a dish and  then use it.  Is that what you do?  How about using a sponge with the dye directly from the bottle?  Do you dilute it at all, or does that depend on how strong a color you're looking for?  I also ordered some of their reducer.  Is that just denatured alcohol or something else?

Funny that Lonsdale is shipping the dye via Canada Post and Tandy said that only Purolator would take it, and with a surcharge at that.

If you were making an AirPod Pro case (as per the link I posted) would you dye first, then cut the pieces and stitch, or would you do the dyeing after it's stitched?  And if wet moulding after the stitching, how would you handle that?  My  concerns are shrinkage of the leather and also being able to wet mould after stitching.  I'm thinking of dyeing a larger piece first, then cutting and stitching and then wet moulding.  Does that sound good to you?

Thank you again!

 

 

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

  • CFM
Posted
1 hour ago, MtlBiker said:

Do you dilute it at all, or does that depend on how strong a color you're looking for?  I also ordered some of their reducer.  Is that just denatured alcohol or something else?

Yes, I dilute to achieve the tone/shade that I want. I have no idea what the actual 'reducer' is, but I have used both denatured and isopropyl  alcohol and have had no issues. I buy 99% isopropyl by the gallon. Last I saw, it was going about $32/gal at my local farm store.

Hoka Hey! Today, tomorrow, next week, what does it matter?

  • CFM
Posted
15 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

Thank you (again!).  I ordered some dyes from Lonsdale yesterday and they're coming in about a week or so (Canada Post).  Lonsdale's web site says to pour some dye into a dish and  then use it.  Is that what you do?  How about using a sponge with the dye directly from the bottle?  Do you dilute it at all, or does that depend on how strong a color you're looking for?  I also ordered some of their reducer.  Is that just denatured alcohol or something else?

Funny that Lonsdale is shipping the dye via Canada Post and Tandy said that only Purolator would take it, and with a surcharge at that.

If you were making an AirPod Pro case (as per the link I posted) would you dye first, then cut the pieces and stitch, or would you do the dyeing after it's stitched?  And if wet moulding after the stitching, how would you handle that?  My  concerns are shrinkage of the leather and also being able to wet mould after stitching.  I'm thinking of dyeing a larger piece first, then cutting and stitching and then wet moulding.  Does that sound good to you?

Thank you again!

 

 

I think Tandy is full of BS. Methinks they just want to move their Eco-Flo subpar brand over anything else and are willing to self-sabotage some of the merchandise they carry in order to do so: case in point: Fiebing's. As long as it's ground-transported, any carrier can deliver Fiebing's "combustible" Pro dyes. Hare-brained shenanigans from Tandy. :rolleyes2:

 

I'd NOT stitch before dyeing: you'll dye the thread!

Thus, I'd dye, then wet mould, then stitch. Stitching would always be my last step—well, technically, the last step would be the edge finishing, but you get my drift.

Posted
7 hours ago, Hardrada said:

I think Tandy is full of BS. Methinks they just want to move their Eco-Flo subpar brand over anything else and are willing to self-sabotage some of the merchandise they carry in order to do so: case in point: Fiebing's. As long as it's ground-transported, any carrier can deliver Fiebing's "combustible" Pro dyes. Hare-brained shenanigans from Tandy. :rolleyes2:

 

I'd NOT stitch before dyeing: you'll dye the thread!

Thus, I'd dye, then wet mould, then stitch. Stitching would always be my last step—well, technically, the last step would be the edge finishing, but you get my drift.

I agree with that sentiment.  Since the Fiebing's dyes cannot be ordered via the Tandy website (all show as sold out) I emailed the rep who's often helped me (and given great service).  He replied that he only had 8 colors in stock (6 of them shades of brown believe it or not) and that he'd be glad to prepare the order.  I said I would take one of each of the colors he had and asked him to email me back with a total price including shipping with the surcharge and that I'd call him with a credit card number.  (I'm reluctant to give that via email.)  It's now 4 days later and I'm still waiting for him to give me the price.  I think you're correct that they really don't want to sell Fiebing's products.  Meanwhile I ordered from Lonsdale and the order shipped out on Monday.  Prompt service and easy peasy to deal with.

Okay, thanks for the advice.  I will dye my leather before cutting it out, but I will stitch it before wet moulding it (as per the pattern and video I'm following).  Using the solvent based dye instead of water based, will _probably_ eliminate or minimize the dye affecting the thread.  But in any case, I'll be using the same thread color as my dye, or as near to it as possible.  At least for this project, which is really just for practice.  I've already made 4 AirPod Pro cases, but only own 2 AirPods.  So it's all about the practice... dyeing, cutting, gluing, stitching, wet forming and final finishing.  And with such a small item, there isn't much wasted material.  Perfect practice project.

Cheers!

 

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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