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Posted
5 hours ago, dikman said:

That foot pedal will be one-of-a-kind! Way over-the-top

Its a ' racing ' version, so you can sew faster .  

 

' I have a very gweat friend in Wome called Biggus Dickus,

He has a wife you know, do you know whats she's called? Incontinentia.......Incontinentia Buttocks '  :rofl:

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Posted
On 6/28/2022 at 10:50 AM, Hypomelanistic said:

So far I've redone the black oxide on a lot of the rusted screws

I am curious how you do the process black oxide? That is some very nice looking work on the servo motor attachment:notworthy:

WH.jpgWild Harry - Australian made leather goods
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Posted

Good question. The common way that most of the restorers on youtube do it is to either heat them and drop them in oil or use the gunblue stuff that is used for cold-blueing on firearms. I'm interested if there's another way.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Posted

The handwheel looks to be aluminum - I think he said he might anodize the parts, which is an electrolytic process used for aluminum. You can use dye in the process, and create many colors, that way.

The model number giveth, and the subclass taketh away ......... Sometimes

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Posted

Nice job.  Electrolysis on the rusty parts?

glenn

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Oops - I see that RockyAussie was asking about the steel screws - I thought he meant the aluminum parts ........

The model number giveth, and the subclass taketh away ......... Sometimes

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Posted
16 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

I am curious how you do the process black oxide? That is some very nice looking work on the servo motor attachment:notworthy:

 

16 hours ago, dikman said:

Good question. The common way that most of the restorers on youtube do it is to either heat them and drop them in oil or use the gunblue stuff that is used for cold-blueing on firearms. I'm interested if there's another way.

I used EPI ultra black 400 and their E-Tec 512 rust preventative.  This requires you to boil the parts in the solution at about 290 degrees Fahrenheit.  My understanding is this is a more industrial product than cold bluing.  I have never been able to get something that looks factory with cold bluing stuff I’ve tried so I went this route. 

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Posted
8 hours ago, shoepatcher said:

Nice job.  Electrolysis on the rusty parts?

glenn

I used Rustoleum “Rust Dissolver” on the rusty parts which removed the rust but still leaves the pitted surface.  So after that I hit them with some sand paper and scotch brite so they would have a smooth finish under the black oxide.  

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Posted

Thanks mate, a bit like Parkerising then, except it's black rather than the gunmetal colour I got. As I expected, it doesn't appear to be available here. No surprise there.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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