Dipping my toe into sewing; Advice requested

[kgg]

23 minutes ago, Sam83 said:

None of this is all that complicated, I'm aware, but because I've never even seen one of these machines, let alone assembled one, it all feels much more messy than it is.

A couple of quick notes for when you decide to order and the your machine arrives.

1. Have a second person to help you pickup, unpack, move, lift and place the machine.

2. Industrial sewing machines are heavy and clumsy to handle by oneself whether they are brand name or clone.

Example:

i)   Juki DU-1181N head alone weights in at ------- 31   kg  (~68.3 lbs  )
ii)  Juki DNU-1541 S head alone weights in at ---- 36.5 kg (~80.5 lbs  )
iii) Juki LS-1341 head alone weights in at ---------- 37.5 kg  (~82.7 lbs  )
iv) Juki TSC-441 head alone weights in at ---------  56   kg  (~114.6 lbs )

3. They probably are going to have packing oil over their surfaces so they are also going to be slippery also. Clean all oil off before trying to move or lift them once they are out of the shipping box.

4. Cylinder bed machine and patchers are nose heavy and always wants to tip over until you get a couple of mounting bolts into the rear of the base and table.

5. Since shipping to your location is so outrageous I would suggest either building a table or getting a used industrial table locally. A industrial sewing table is going to be 1.2 m L x 0.5 m W (48"L x 20"W ) and with the weight of a motor weight in probably around the 35 kg mark.

kgg

[Sam83]

@kgg You're just a treasure trove of information! Thank you for the heads up. It's funny seeing the weights listed out. I only weigh 48kgs myself, being a rather petite woman, so this could make for some delightful physical comedy!

I moved here literally just before the first lockdown, and then I lost my job and am on contract work atm, so I don't know many people who could help me out. However, that may not be necessary at all because ~drum roll~  I've found a Typical machine supplier in the city! I knew there had to be some dealership that supplied local businesses, and it turns out that by focusing on clone machines, I have found my way around these obstacles.

I gave the suppliers a call this morning and the person I spoke to said that the sales rep who can help me out is on holiday atm. He will be back in a month's time and I can call back to arrange an appointment with him. So, I've finally made some progress. Hopefully this means I can actually get the machine locally and even test it out in person before committing to the purchase.

Thank you all again for all the wonderful tips. No doubt they'll help other newbs as much as they did me. 

[dikman]

That's great news, Sam. It's much better being able to see and, if possible use, a machine before buying it. Hopefully through this forum you'll have a pretty good idea of questions to ask when you eventually visit the place.

[chrisash]

This is a good post on helping you chose the type of machine

 

[Sam83]

@dikman Thank you! I feel much better about being able to see and handle them before buying.

@chrisash Agree, that is a wonderful thread and it was where I started on my journey. Lots of valuable info in there and I'm grateful to Wiz for the time and effort he put into collating it all.

[Sam83]

Hi all, time for an update!

I finally got an appointment with the Typical machine rep, who then proceeded to give me the runaround and push domestic sewing machines on me. I've wasted so much time and effort trying to get local dealers to just be upfront about the fact that they don't supply leather sewing machines, it's incredibly frustrating!

After giving up on getting Juki, Consew, and Typical machines, I stumbled upon a supplier who could import a Gypsy leather sewing machine (unfamiliar brand but, on paper, no different than other clones). Unfortunately, the price was close to USD 5,000! No way!

Now I only have one option left: Sailrite. Which, I know is often considered the wrong type of machine for leatherwork work, but it's the only remaining option within my budget of 2k, that ships directly from them to Dubai. Given that I'm working on thin leathers and only making bags, it seems a suitable option.
I was torn between the LSZ-1 (because I think the zig zag stitch option would be useful) and the Leatherwork. I think I'll opt for the latter because of the smooth presser feet, speed reducer and greater power ( 3/4th hp, 4.5 amps vs 1/4th hp, 3 amps in the LSZ).

Thank you all for your input and advice as I navigated the world of machines! I really hadn't expected it to be quite so complicated to get what I need locally. If anyone has any input on the Leatherwork machines, I'm all ears! I'm planning to make the purchase in the next few weeks if nobody warns me against it, lol. 

Thanks again!

Edited August 16, 2022 by Sam83

[kgg]

4 hours ago, Sam83 said:

If anyone has any input on the Leatherwork machines, I'm all ears! I'm planning to make the purchase in the next few weeks if nobody warns me against it, lol. 

The portable walking foot machines were designed for sewing canvas while at sea. That said the Sailrite machines seem to be better made with good customer service and video's then a lot of the other similar portable walking foot machines. The LSZ-1 with the zig zag is a nice option to have while the Leatherworker is a LS-1 (painted green) straight stitch machine and mounted into a short table with a good industrial servo motor driving it.

If I were importing one I would go with the LSZ-1 with a hard metal case for safe storage and their Worker B motor if it could be used on the electrical system of your country. Otherwise I would get a LSZ-1, mount it in a table and strap an industrial servo motor to it that would work on your electrical system. The short tables like that of the Leatherworker are I think to short and you would windup putting a table extension leaf on it. 

The attached photo is of a table I constructed for a LSZ-1clone mounted in a table with an extension leaf. This little machine has one job, edge binding. It has been modified to do this as efficiently as possible in the less amount of space with the necessary attachments.

[Sam83]

@kgg Thanks so much for the quick response, kgg! I'm so grateful for the assistance. 

I love the look of your LSZ-1 clone. Great colour! 

1 hour ago, kgg said:

If I were importing one I would go with the LSZ-1 with a hard metal case for safe storage and their Worker B motor if it could be used on the electrical system of your country.

Great to know, thank you! Yes I checked and their European version (with the Worker B motor) will work here on our 230V power supply voltage.

May I ask a question? Aside from the table that would require an extension, wouldn't the Leatherwork be a better option because it has more horse power?

LSZ-1:

Power:220-240V A.C., 1/10th hp, 0.7 amps

* just noticed I posted 3 amps in the last post, which is incorrect.

Leatherwork: 

Power:220-240V A.C., 3/4th hp, 4.5 amps

Also, the leatherwork has a speed reducer which the LSZ-1 doesn't and I had understood that this was important for being able to control stitches around corner and such.

Please know that I'm not trying to push back against your recommendation. I just want to learn and better understand how important things like the horsepower are. Thank you! 

Edited August 16, 2022 by Sam83

[Tequila]

@Sam83 IMHO it’s not the HP but the application of the HP.  Reducing pulley will increase the torque and reduce the speed.  Again, IMHO I would choose the Leatherwork, why you ask?  Easy, first for almost all leatherwork a good straight stitch is all you need.  Second, more HP is always a good thing.  Third after looking at the machine specs the LSZ-1 MAY require you to change the presser feet and feed dog since it’s designed to be used for sewing canvas, etc and might mar leather.  A good leather machine can go slow and still have the punching power to push the needle through the leather. As for going around corners well slow is you friend, usually it’s one stitch at a time and controlling where the leather is to where the needle is is crucial, remember leather is unforgiving one extra hole can ruin the product. 

[Wizcrafts]

The Sailrite portables line are dual feed walking foot machines, where the feed dog and outside foot move the work, while the needle and inside foot just move up and down. In order to get a good grip the feeder and foot have teeth. In the case of the Leatherwork version, the feet and feeder are knurled instead of having sharp angled teeth. If one is sewing chrome tan leather this is no problem. In fact, their regular sharp teeth probably won't mark up chrome tanned leather. However, when sewing veg-tan leather any tooth pattern or tooth marks will remain visible unless you rub them out.

All of the Sailrite portables are factory limited to a maximum thread size of T90; top and bottom. Despite this, some people on this forum have pushed their machines beyond that limit to sew 1/4 inch of leather with T135 bonded thread, top and bottom. This required moving the hook slightly farther away from the needle and using a #23 needle. This combination greatly increases the power needed to penetrate leather, especially veg-tan leather. So, these guys made speed reducers that multiplied the torque. Sewing veg-tan leather calls for adding the Monster II balance wheel to the machine. I believe they also had to find stronger presser foot springs to keep the leather from lifting with the threaded needle. The size of the lockstitch knots in size T135 (v138) thread are more than double that of T90. The top tension spring may also need to be replaced with a heavier spring to pull the knots up.

With or without these modifications, the Sailrite portables are limited to sewing 1/4 inch, or ~6.25mm under the feet. Sewing anything thicker requires further modifications.